Rotor Puller and Stator Wiring Harness Questions

[Downeaster]

1. Is the MikesXS rotor puller worth a darn? Does anyone have a better source, or an OEM Yamaha part number?

2. The sleeve over the stator/brushes wiring harness is brittle and falling apart. Best way to replace that?

 

[Signal]

No experience with Mikes puller but I have one from 650 Central, it has been used about 6 times and it is still working well.

I can't imagine away to replace the sleeving without either cutting the plug off and replacing it or cutting the cable and resplicing.
Heat shrink tape is available but I have never used it.
If the sleeving is showing its age the connectors might benefit from being replaced as well.
Heat shrink big enough to go over the 6 way plug will not shrink down enough to do a neat job ( at least the stuff I had didn't).

I have used fibreglass sleeving on the alternator wiring on a couple of bikes, my thinking was that it would give more mechanical protection than PVC. Time will tell if it was a good idea or not.

 

[Splexin]

I can vouch for the puller from Mikes. Actually had to use an air impact wrench to get my rotor off. Probably a no-no but the puller held up and got it off with no damage. This was a couple of years ago.

As far as the stator sleeve, probably some kind of heat shrink wrap. Can't speak from experience here as I replaced my alternator around the time I got a new rotor.

 

[Downeaster]

Thanks, folks.

I've ordered a Molex pin tool that should let me release the pins from the connector and slide a new piece of heat shrink (or whatever) over the wiring harness.

When I was a full-time electronics weenie, I did pin removal/reinstallation a lot, so I know the procedure, just not sure if this is the right tool or not.

I'll get the Mike's tool coming.

 

[weekendrider]

+3 on the rotor pullers being a good tool.
gggGarys windshield wiper tool will release the blades. Like it was custom made for the job.

 

[Downeaster]

I got curious last night, couldn't remember if they were flat blades or round pins.

As you know, they're flat. And a jeweler's screwdriver pops 'em right out. I'll be taking care of that part of it today.

 

[Downeaster]

Good day today. Stator harness repair went smoothly, and got the cases split.

I cruised the appropriate threads in the tech section before splitting the cases and the tip to warm them up before trying to separate them was a HUGE help.

Backed all the connectors off in the designated sequence and then built a quick and dirty wooden stand to hold the engine upside down at the correct height to toast it with my Mr. Heater infrared propane heater.

Took a while in an unheated garage with the outside temps around 40°, but when the thermometer said the coldest part of the casting was above 80°, a couple of thumps with a brass drift and a dead blow hammer in strategic spots and it popped right apart.

Even better, the gasket kit and some other goodies arrived today, so I'll be able to work on it this weekend!

 

[XSLeo]

On the rotor puller, don't just tighten the puller to pull the rotor, you might strip the threads. One guy did this, later we discovered he didn't remove the nut holding the rotor on.
Anyway tighten the puller down firmly, now give the end of the puller a good sharp whack with a hammer. Straight on the bolt. Between the puller pushing the bolt and pulling the rotor, this puts tension on the parts, the sharp whack of the hammer pops the rotor off. The crank and rotor are a taper fit.
Leo

 

[Downeaster]

Yup, familiar with the process. I'll let ya know how it goes when it comes in.

I've been pleasantly surprised by how quickly stuff is arriving, given the time of year.