Scareous XS650

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Scareous XS650
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New Zealand
I have an XS650 at home that's in a bad way.
It's pretty slow goings.
Then this one came up, and I had the cash, so..

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Took some bits off and threw on some Honda Rebel 10.5" shocks.
I had to remove the chain guard to make em fit.
Sits right down now, and much stiffer ride..

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Will look for some new smaller turn signals (needed by law here), maybe some Honda Monkey bike ones..
 
Nice bike, how do the rebel shocks work ? :thumbsup:

They work great. I am light, and they have stiffened the ride up completely for me.
Which is great, because obviously the guard is way closer to the tire now.
I had a wee jump up and down and couldn't bottom them out.
It was more for looks for me to be honest, so I'm happy.
They were a tight fit, very close to the chain (I threw a washer in, shhh), and as I said the chain guard had to come off.
 
Double walled pipes should never blue/yellow, if the inner pipe is rusted through it could cause that. Would hate to think the carbs were that lean to cause that but if the inner's haven;t rusted through, there has to be a reason

When after market mufflers are clamped over the outer pipe the exhaust fumes get forced between the inner and outer and escape through the hole in the outer which is at the top of the header, ( hole was originally for condensation evaporation).
 
Wow, so broke down on me last night, pushed it 2km home.. that was fun.
Saved me going to the gym this morning I guess.

I warmed it up, we got 2km down the road, then no power, when I put the throttle on, it made a bogged down sound, and nearly died, off the throttle and it idled ok, tried to rev it up to take off, just managed to, then as I applied more throttle, it cut out.
Wouldn't start again.

The bike hasn't really been used by it's previous owner for 5 years..

I think it is something to do with the left cylinder, which wasn't firing when I bought it due to a fouled plug. Maybe when not firing gas got into the bore?

Or could be a carb issue, will clean out the bowls, see what that shows.

I am buying a compression tester today, so we will see what that tell us.
 
One of the first things you should check is if the charging system is working. If the charging system won't charge the battery, the bike won't run long or well.
Maybe just a set of brushes.
Also going through a basic tune up will help. Do things in this order.
#1 adjust cam chain tension
#2 adjust valve clearances
#3 adjust the points gap
#4 adjust they points timing.
This will correct the mechanical issues
This should fix most of your troubles. If not read www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf
If the charging system is not working go to the TECH section, up at top of page. Look for Curly's Charging guide.
Your repair manual outlines the procedures for everything on the list.
Leo
 
I did notice that the neutral light was relatively dim/dead when it wouldn't go.
But when I went back 2 hours later, it started again, then died 2 mins later..
How can it recharge? (I am thick when it comes to electrics sorry).

I will just get new points, the guy mentioned he had messed round with them.

Thanks a million.
 
I will do basic tune up, then read through Curly's guide and get stuck in.

This is obviously leading down the track to the PMA I read so much about?!
 
Why is it obvious......... have you tested the parts?

To make sure the electrics are working to their optimim, go from one end of the bike to the other and take apart every bullet connection, plastic coupling, ring, and earth connection and clean. Dismantle all switches and clean free up moving parts. Use an electrical grease when reconnecting. I used a Dremel drill with the small round bit for the female bullet connectors and fine wet and dry for all male connections. A real prick to do the male cuplings.

I didn't realize how important it was to do this before i done it myself. When i did it i also continuity tested the wires between every connection for weak or broken wires or connections

This is a must if you want a reliable bike, also if the original charging system tests good, having good connections lesson the load an the rotor and it will last longer.
 
Why is it obvious......... have you tested the parts?

I put a question mark at the end. I have no idea what the problem is.
I have heard about charging issues, and seen lots about PMA's.
I was wondering is this why the move to PMA..

I will be going through everything with a fine tooth comb yes..
 
Battery could be poked. If its been sitting around for the better part of 5 years... do you have a trickle charger that connects to a wall?
 
I did notice that the neutral light was relatively dim/dead when it wouldn't go.
But when I went back 2 hours later, it started again, then died 2 mins later..
How can it recharge? (I am thick when it comes to electrics sorry).

I will just get new points, the guy mentioned he had messed round with them.

Thanks a million.

When a battery has been used and then stopped, it can build up a surface charge, this may be enough to start it.

These bikes need a good strong battery. You need to do a lot of testing and maintenance. Make the bike yours so you can trust it, not to save your gym fees.

Do not trust the po or the fact it had a roadworthy
 
Do you have a repair manual? If not get one. It will become the most used and valuable tool you will own.
It tells how to test everything one the bike. Tells how to fix the things you find wrong.If you have trouble with the testing or repair, we are here for you.
I would also get the battery yopu have tested at a place that sells batteries. If the battery is no good then nothing else will work right.
Also get a battery charger specifically for motorcycle batteries. Don't waste your money on the cheap trickle chargers, they will over charge the battery if left on too long, boiling the water away. Get one that has a 1.5 amp charge rate. Most in the range will charge the battery to 13.8 volts at the 1.5 amps then drop to a lower amps to maintain the battery at 13.8 volts. This prevents boiling the water.
I have a Schumacher model 1562A It sells for around $25-$30. I got this one just the other day because I can't find my old one.
Here's a pic.
Leo
 

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The weak point in the electrical system is the charging rotor. Check it. If it hasn't failed and been replaced, it will. That's why all the PMA hoopla. A rewound rotor isn't cheap.

Get an ohm meter. Check the resistance between the copper rings. Just remove the brushes and check it where the brushes ride. You should get a 5 ohm reading. Less than 3 and you need a rewind.

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Thanks for the replies guys..

Yes I have the Haynes and Clymer manuals!

So, the battery was only at 10V, so I charged that up to 12.5V, and all is well.
I still had a problem with the headlight/taillight not going sometimes, so I first cleaned up the battery area, checked the ground, cleaned the fuse block, and connectors, and just made everything under the seat tidy!

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Pulled apart the RHS handlebar switch block, which has what I believe to be the faulty connection.

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Ok, so the black part here has some movement, and can move a mm away from the connecting (switch) white part. Must be the culprit!
Now where can I get a replacement part? It is a three-way toggle..?

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In your 3rd pic the ends of the oblong box can be gently pulled apart, (try not to bend the ends), and the white plastic piece will come out. The connections can be cleaned.

Before i reinstalled ii squeezed the ends closer together so the ends had the tension to hold it
 
^^ A million thanks!

I got it apart, cleaned it up, and managed to squeeze bits to make it hold tight.

Lights now work! I even did a happy dance for real..

I can now go get it officially road legal.

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