Seized Swingarm

[jetmechmarty]

I'm working on a TX650 that does not belong to me. Today, I decided to tackle the swingarm bushings. I discovered that it was seized. There was no rotation and frame tab was damaged. The bolt was driven out with considerable effort. The tube was seized to the plastic bushings, as well. I still have to remove the bushings. I'll save it for later.

The anti rotation tab is damaged. How big a deal is this. I know having it welded might be a huge deal. I'd prefer to avoid it. What say the experts? Not my bike, so extra fussy.

 

[grizld1]

Not a big deal at all, Marty. The bolt from Mike's XS (the one with no reduction of diameter in the threaded section) uses a nyloc nut in place of the lock tab on the other side. I've used one for years with no issues. If you don't need to do a hard stop on one end of the s.a. axle, you shouldn't need it on the other. Aircraft nut, you gotta like that, right? I may be seeing it wrong, but it looks like some of the tab is still there? If that's so and it really worries you, consider having a shim welded to one of the flats on the axle to engage what's left of the tab. I'd guess the tab is only there for convenience, so you don't have to back up one end while you wrench on the other.

 

[grizld1]

Hmmmm. Think I've figured out who owns that TX you're working on. How did he con you into turning wrenches for him anyway, Marty? Somebody owes you big for busting knuckles on that polished up mess!

 

[jetmechmarty]

Hmmmm. Think I've figured out who owns that TX you're working on. How did he con you into turning wrenches for him anyway, Marty? Somebody owes you big for busting knuckles on that polished up mess!

Nope. It's not who you think. This one came to me on a truck from Virginia. He's also an XS1100 collector. Our mutual friend does all his own wrenching.

 

[grizld1]

You're a loyal friend, Marty, so your disclaimer is suspect. I'm still going to voice suspicions (you know, like the twitter troll who hasn't backed down on all the noise he made about a certain birth certificate). Here's the question--if our friend really has been turning wrenches in that shop, how could it possibly stay so clean? You could eat off the floor in there!

 

[fredintoon]

I'm working on a TX650 that does not belong to me. Today, I decided to tackle the swingarm bushings. I discovered that it was seized. There was no rotation and frame tab was damaged. The bolt was driven out with considerable effort. The tube was seized to the plastic bushings, as well. I still have to remove the bushings. I'll save it for later.
View attachment 104546
The anti rotation tab is damaged. How big a deal is this. I know having it welded might be a huge deal. I'd prefer to avoid it. What say the experts? Not my bike, so extra fussy.

Hi Marty,
sounds like that bike has the typical XS650 rotating bearing sleeve problem.
What I'd do is grind the frame tab off flush.
Then replace the bearing sleeve with a same diameter same length case-hardened solid steel rod that's tapped M16 each end.
Hold the bearing rod from turning with an M16 bolt screwed into each end & REALLY tightened.
New seal washers each side and replacing the plastic bushings with bronze bushings and a grease nipple in
the swingarm will complete the fix.
Be sure the bronze bush flange thicknesses and the bearing rod length are such that the swingarm has
the required 0.002" to 0.01" sideplay when the M16 bolts are fully tightened.

 

[xjwmx]

From what I can tell from the picture, what broke off was the big flat on the left side that keep the bolt from turning? I would probably gather up the pieces and have them welded back on, followed by some grinding. I would like them to be there, if it was my bike.

I still have to remove the bushings. I'll save it for later.

For awhile there were lots of current threads about this; I guess everybody was doing it at the same time. Not the method I used, but the best-sounding one is soften it just a little with a torch of some kind, then do your thing.

 

[5twins]

I've never had any problem driving them out with a hammer and suitably sized drift or pipe, but then I'm pretty skilled with a hammer.

 

[xjwmx]

^Mine were stuck good! I drove a big nail between the plastic bushing and swing arm which caused the bushing to split lengthwise, and then it practically fell out.

 

[fredintoon]

e-mail said that Grizld1 posted this here:-

"Fred, are you figuring that a zerk fitted in the middle of the s.a. will suffice for lubrication?"

Even if it ain't here now.
So yeah, the route the grease has to travel from a Zerk in the swingarm to the bearing sleeve/swingarm bush interface is direct.
the grease's journey from the Zerks on the throughbolt's ends through cross-drilled holes into the throughbolt/bearing sleeve interface
then through another pair of crossdrilled holes to get to where it needs to be is convoluted, to say the least.
& my way of removing plastic swingarm bushings is to assemble a hacksaw through both bushings to cut them into C-sections
then saw across the bush flanges in line with the cut. Then the bushes will push out real easy.

 

[jetmechmarty]

& my way of removing plastic swingarm bushings is to assemble a hacksaw through both bushings to cut them into C-sections
then saw across the bush flanges in line with the cut. Then the bushes will push out real easy.

I'm going to use that method.

While I have your attention, I'm thinking about the countershaft seal and pushrod seal. There's no real sign of a leak. Replace them?

 

[xjwmx]

That method would work to remove bronze bushings too. Also a hand jig saw.

The seals, personally I wouldn't replace them automatically. I'd wait until there's a problem. Don't fix if not broken. If it starts leaking you don't have to say I wonder what went wrong. Then the guy says it wasn't leaking before...

I got a countershaft seal from a popular supplier last fall and it barely touches the sleeve inside it. If you do replace it, look for pits in the sleeve, and you might want to turn the sleeve around and let the other end ride on the seal for awhile. Using Scotchbrite to very lightly buff metal parts turning inside oil seals seems to work good hoodoo.

 

[grizld1]

Yep, I had second thoughts on that post and deleted it, Fred. I installed and use a center zerk, but I do like to have the end zerks as well; pretty pointless, once I thought about it. My only excuse is that I was too focused on pulling Marty's leg to be thinking clearly. (I don't even want to think about the penance that His Eminence the High Priest of Speed will impose. Mea maxima culpa....) +1 re. the seals, xjwmx; they very seldom need replacement. BTW, in Yamaspeak they're "thrust plates." +1 on polishing the bits, too!

Re. bushing removal, I used to burn them with a torch and flick them out with a screwdriver. But I've found it's quicker and easier to use a blind hole puller. Three or four smacks with the slide hammer will bring 'em right out.

 

[xjwmx]

+1 on polishing the bits, too!

Thank you very much, but credit must go to 5Twins who learned it from the proverbial "old mechanic". Not only does it keep you from leaking, it makes you feel young too.