Short legged on a standard

The shock spring preload will have a small effect on ride height.
That's not what the preload is for.
It is so the suspension can properly support the weight of the bike and any load it carries. With out the preload right the ride and handling will not be as good as they should be. Possibly even dangerous.
Leo
 
The shock spring preload will have a small effect on ride height.
That's not what the preload is for.
It is so the suspension can properly support the weight of the bike and any load it carries. With out the preload right the ride and handling will not be as good as they should be. Possibly even dangerous.
Leo

Leo, Thanks for the input. I really like the way this bike handles with the Spitfires on it. I can live with the seat hieght. I really don't want to change anything away from the stock configuration, I was just playing around with the preload; stiffest up front and softest in the rear seams to level the bike with that 120/90 on the back. If I went with the 110/90 next tire change it would drop the rear and I could lighten the preload on the front. At my wieght of 200 in riding gear and riding solo in the mountains what would you recommend for a preload setting? Joe
 
Leo, Thanks for the input. I really like the way this bike handles with the Spitfires on it. I can live with the seat hieght. I really don't want to change anything away from the stock configuration, I was just playing around with the preload; stiffest up front and softest in the rear seams to level the bike with that 120/90 on the back. If I went with the 110/90 next tire change it would drop the rear and I could lighten the preload on the front. At my wieght of 200 in riding gear and riding solo in the mountains what would you recommend for a preload setting? Joe

Stiff! :bike:
 
To properly set the preload you need to determine the laden sag. to do this hold the bike upright. measure the rear from the ctc on the mount bolts. Now with help to hold the bike, get on the bike with all your riding gear on. Get in the position you ride in. While one helper holds bike have another measure the rear at the same points.
The difference between the measurements is the sag.
Do the same on the front forks, measure from some point on the trees to the center of the axle.
The sag should match front to back. 20-25 mm for good handling. 30-35 mm for a more plush ride.
There are places that give more precise methods that include seal and slider sticktion but this will get you close. Try googling motorcycle suspension set up.
Leo
 
Im new on here and just bought a 75 xs650 but was worried because of these short legs iam cursed with thought I was gonna have tippy toe the bike everytime I stopped. Iam def gonna get those 10.5 shocks and lower the front too. How low should I go on the front if I go from stock shocks to the 10.5 shocks?
 
Im new on here and just bought a 75 xs650 but was worried because of these short legs iam cursed with thought I was gonna have tippy toe the bike everytime I stopped. Iam def gonna get those 10.5 shocks and lower the front too. How low should I go on the front if I go from stock shocks to the 10.5 shocks?

Depends on how you ride. Go level and it will work better on the open road. Go slightly lower in front than back and it will perform better in the twisties. The great thing about doing the front is you can slide the forks up and down in the fork clamps to see what works best for your riding style.

Just remember: everything is a trade off. Any change you make will be better in some situations and worse in others.

And don't forget ground clearance when cornering-- especially left side.
 
Depends on how you ride. Go level and it will work better on the open road. Go slightly lower in front than back and it will perform better in the twisties. The great thing about doing the front is you can slide the forks up and down in the fork clamps to see what works best for your riding style.

Once you do figure out what works best for you do you go back and actually lower it with a lowering kit or something?
 
As you are lowering the front by letting the tubes up through the clamps pay attention to the diminishing gap between the lower yoke and the front fender/tire. If the distance the forks can travel is greater than the gap guess what happens to the fender.

roy
 
As you are lowering the front by letting the tubes up through the clamps pay attention to the diminishing gap between the lower yoke and the front fender/tire. If the distance the forks can travel is greater than the gap guess what happens to the fender.

roy

Interesting....I've seen a few of those front fenders and always thought they dropped the headlight on them while fooling with the wiring.
 
I have an 81 special, and it doesn't look like it will slide up into the tree's. Loosened the clamps to see if it would go up but it won't. Am I missing something, or does that not work on my bike?
 
I have an 81 special, and it doesn't look like it will slide up into the tree's. Loosened the clamps to see if it would go up but it won't. Am I missing something, or does that not work on my bike?

If the tubes clear the handlebars then it should work. PB Blaster might help. Or gently spreading the slots in the fork trees.
 
when I had my 79, i also did the 'slide the fork tubes up in the triple trees' thing. The way I did it was to loosen pinch bolts some, and then I walked the bike into a concrete wall, so the front tire bumped against the wall (gently!) and after a couple times that worked the forks upward and "through", so I ended up with about .5 in sticking up over the top triple clamp.
 
Just keep the amount sticking up through the top tree the same side to side.
Not only the fender but the fork dust seals and the top of the fork lowers can hit the lower tree.
Torque on the tree clamp bolts is 7 ft/lbs in the 78 book. 5.8 to 9 ft/lbs in the earlier books.
The way the bars set partly over the fork tubes you can only slide the tubes up to just below the bars.
Leo
 
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