Okay, I think(?) I may've improved things a bit. Here's what I did:
1) I checked the cam adjuster setting, which was perfect (the pin was absolutely flush with the end of the tube). Then, I started the engine and noted that the pin barely moved within the tube (<1mm of travel).
2) I re-measured the point gaps, as per the Service Manual: both still set to .35mm.
3) I re-checked the static timing, as per the Service Manual: same results as before - line on stator is still located to the left of the "F" marks on the stator.
4) I installed a new set of points and gapped them to .35mm.
5) I re-checked the static timing, but the results were the same, so the old points were good.
6) I attached the Dwell meter (set for 8 cylinders) to the right set of points and got the readings in
green (though the needle was bouncing around a bit - maybe the width of 1-2 lines on the meter):
7) I reduced the gap on the right set of points (by eye) and retested with the Dwell meter. Still too far over to the right side. So I kept reducing the gap and retesting with the Dwell meter until I got a reading around the 11 mark, which is the
red line (n.b. I didn't bother to measure the gap, but to get this reading, I had to adjust the point gap to the point where the contacts were barely separated!).
8) I repeated step 7 on the left set of points, but the best I could get was just shy of the 10 mark (the
blue line in the photo above).
9) I attached the inductive timing light and started the engine. With the engine running, instead of the rotor's timing mark being too far to the left of the "F" marks on the stator, it was too far to the right. But I was then able to rotate the points plate to get the firing mark to line up perfectly between the "F" marks on the stator.
After that, I readjusted the idle speed and was able to lower it a bit from its previous ~1500~1600rpm to ~1300rpm (normal is ~1100~1200rpm). It was almost dark and I didn't have my helmet with me, so I was only able to drive it for a few hundred feet around the parking lot, but the idle seemed a bit smoother than it was.
Pardon what may be an obvious question, but it just occurred to me that I only checked the timing with the engine idling. Also, I didn't clamp the advance weights closed as instructed by the Service Manual when checking/setting the point gaps. Do I need to go back and retest @ 2500rpm and/or with the advance weights clamped shut, or is the idle timing sufficient since it was dead-on?
As an aside, I'm amazed at how much of this I've forgotten over the years.