Snapped a Clutch Cable

You may be stuck there. Mike's may be the only supplier of those. You could try 650Central however, he gets much of his stuff from Mike. It's possible you might end up with a heavier gray cable from Mike's. At one time, their black ones were the good heavy ones. They probably don't sell a lot of gray ones. If they're still working from the stock from 5 or 6 years ago, you might just get a heavy one. Originals, the Motion Pro, and the Easy-Pull use .098" diameter wire. The skinny crap cable is only .078" diameter.
 
I just popped one on my RD this morning. It's actually one I made from an xs cable a couple years back. You can take the inner from a longer cable, put it in the old sheath, cut it to length and solder the end you want on. Is it perfect? no, but it lasted me two seasons so it'll get you through until the right one comes in.

edit: Might be worth mentioning the cable failed in the usual place where it flexes in the lever. The solder joint was still intact.
 
Both cables other than mikes are good. The eazy pull has the thick cable like the ones 5-twins illistratrated. It does not have the elbow witch can cause binding. If you want the original look motion pro. I like the no binding.
 
Hey guys, I just bought my first XS (a '81) and the previous owner said he's broken 2 cables in the last month. My thought process to fix the problem starts with 1. Low quality cable 2. Worn/dirty worm. Where would be the next place to look and could anyone point me in the direction of how to lube/replace the worm? Haven't had much luck finding it on here and still waiting on the manuals.
 
To lube the worm, pull the left side cover. The inner worm just unscrews from the outer part after you unhook the cable and spring. Take note of which way the arm is pointing. You need to get it back in the same way. Clean both parts well. A general purpose grease works fine.
Lube the cable the way they talk about in the repair manual. It takes a while but lasts a long time. The cable lubers that clamp around the cable work best to shoot a degreaser or carb cleaner through before you lube the books way.
good cable, good worm, both lubed well and you get a two finger lever pull.
Leo
 
Cable routing is also very important. Do it so you get the least amount of sharp bends and straightest run. Besides lubing the cable, grease the hand lever pivot and the cable ball end where it fits into the lever. The cable ball or barrel should rotate in the lever as you pull it. Keeping it greased helps it do this. If the ball binds in the lever, the cable bends there each time you pull it, eventually breaking at that point - and that seems to be the most common breaking point on these.
 
the cable bends there each time you pull it, eventually breaking at that point - and that seems to be the most common breaking point on these.

My experience, and what I seem to be reading in these broken clutch cable threads that have suddenly popped up, is that the cable pulls out of the bead, and without a lot of warning. If it were breaking or wearing in two, it would do so very gradually because of all the strands.
 
The one I broke was half and half, some strands broke, some pulled out. I felt it was defective. Mike didn't feel that way, lol. His response to my e-mail was "cables are a wear item". I know that but I just expected it to wear longer is all. They do on every other bike I've ever owned, I don't see why the 650 should be any different.
 
No pictures of the motion pro cables. If the Easy Pull cable and the Motion Pro both use the same thickness cable is it safe to assume that they are both reliable and last longer. I'm thinking of going with the Easy Pull as it seems to have the added benefit of being easier to pull :thumbsup:
 
odd, i have over 3000km's on the bad mikes cable. I also lubed it well with atf right out of the box. Also have a motion pro on stand by cause i know whats coming.
 
Internal construction makes an easier pull. Stiffer sides with a higher lubricity lining reduce the amount of sliding friction in the sheath. Still got to route them correctly and use GREASE on the pivots and end blocks, not a squirt from your favorite "can-o-magic"

Some think the grease is too messy, but I have a bike at home with a slightly messy perch and 68,000 miles on the original clutch cable.

Lots of people skip lubing a new cable, but they are shipped dry. Gotta do it, or buy 'em by the 6 pack!

+1 on Motion Pro. The only aftermarket cable I will ever use.
 
Bringing this back to the front because I bought a Mikes clutch cable. Lubed it, and it still snapped while I was riding after less than 100 miles. Ridiculous! Don't get the Mikes cable or at the very least get two and carry the second with you.
 
Then you’re only good for 200 miles if you have two :laugh2:. Motion pro for cables and be done with it. They are far superior and pretty much same price. Motor oil for lubrication and go!

True story there. Learned my lesson the hard way. Luckily I was only a mile away from home and managed to keep it in first and ride home albeit with a lot of clenched butt cheek moments.

Will be getting better cables.
 
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