Something to help vibrations into the seat.

Crashomon

Crashomon

XS650 Enthusiast
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Love my 1982, but the harmonics were Killing Me at midrange. If I had fillings in my teeth, they'da vibrated right out!

So, tune up is done, valves and carbs, but still rattles my head. So, what to do?

Solution: add pipe insulation ($3 at home depot) at various spots between seat and frame. It ain't pretty, but who's looking under my seat? Nobody, so that's that.

Result? Very nice reduction (still very present but not death match strong)

IMG_5927.JPG IMG_5926.JPG
(the green/white strips are double sided cushioned tape for grommet cushioning)

Next up: fix the footpeg vibrations, which are a huge contributor.

Hope this helps others! Cheers!
 
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Hi crash,
nice seat fix, there's a Home Depot just up the road and I suppose I could sport the Cdn$5 equivalent if I skimped on my beer money.
My own solution of using a genuine sheepskin as a seat overlay works well but it does detract from the bike's aesthetics and it sure does hold a lot of rain.
And WTF can you do about the footpeg vibrations apart from replacing their rubber inserts in their mounting holes?
Hmmm. Next size bigger pipe insulation taped over the 'peg foot rubbers? It'd show, it wouldn't last long (but OTH, it's cheap and easily replaced) but would it work?
 
fredintoon said:
And WTF can you do about the footpeg vibrations apart from replacing their rubber inserts in their mounting holes?
Click to expand...
Good question: here's my thinking:
  1. Replacing the rubbers is a GREAT idea (35 year old rubbers ain't gonna be all that 'rubbery' these days)
    (remove old ones and see if I can find ANY replacements that are better suited, not just OEM NOS)
  2. Using rubber grommets between washers for the mounts (gotta test that out)
  3. Using Harley style rubber pegs, which may have thicker padding
That's the path I'll be taking. (and I'll report back on this)
 
Don't forget to factor your boots while trying to sort out your footpegs. Maybe you can find something with a softer/thicker rubber sole to soak up some of the vibrations?
 
How about cut off the foot peg rubber make a cardboard tube or aluminum tube for a Mold ( the aluminum would have to be well greased).... and then fill the mold and footpeg with 100% silicone ? let dry a week and I bet it would be softer and resilant enough to withstand the ware and tear..... silicone is really tough stuff ! but very flexable..... it might be worth a try to Mold your own !
..... as a side note, when I first got my xs650 running it's viberation was fairly bad it put my hands to sleep in 3 blocks ! can't ride very well with numb hands ! I then did the dead cylinder adjustment and then Carb Syncronising and now the bars are hardly vibrating at all
I rode for about 2 hrs last week and never had a problem with my hands going numb..... I can't say that for the 1100cc Honda Shadow i had !!!!30 min max for it and both hands were completely numb.... though the XRL650 Honda was just fine.... some bikes vibrate alot... the xs650 is one of them with that reputation, but I think allot of the reputation is due to the syncronization being a bit off.... here is a easy carb Sync tool you can make that is super accurate..... Curtisy of 2ManyXS's http://www.xs650.com/threads/carb-sync.48939/
Manometer03.jpg
hope that helps.
Bob........
 
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Nice stock 82........Rare best........most are hacked straight away.............

That right header????...........These pipes are double walled so should never color like that, (left looks ok in the pic), they do have a vent hole on the outer pipe right up near the head, sometimes the inner pipe will rust there and the exhaust gasses will/can cause the blueing................might pay to have a look....If the inner wasn't rusted and the header got that color that side would be have to be running real rich.......
 
jetmechmarty said:
The Red Wings may be better than you think. That's what I wear. I get good isolation with them.
Click to expand...

That's true, a lot of riding specific boots have stiffer soles than normal boots, which is great for braking, shifting, and feeling your pegs, but the redwings probably have more rubber on the soles. If you look at boots, look more towards boots for touring/commuting, I feel like that's your best bet for a softer sole.
 
I'm with 2M on this . I too believe a lot of vibration issues can be down to the ignition timing
I get virtually zero vibration on my 79 special ll ..............but I use a Boyer Bransden Micro Digital Electronic ignition and Advance which gives absolutely spot on ignition, all the time, whatever the revs .

I once had a BSA 650 which had atrocious vibration like that you describe so I know exactly what you are talking about. After 5 miles or so I just wanted to stop and get off my hands and feet were so numb.

it would be interesting to know what ignition and advance system you use .
 
CoconutPete said:
Come on guys! The vibration is part of the charm of these ol' machines. Just enjoy the shaking and use this as an excuse to buy an FJ-09 for all-day rides :-D
Click to expand...

Already got this well sorted 2005 SV650 for 'all day rides' I'm looking to Keep the shakes manageable on the XS650 is all. Cheers.
LOVE mid-sized twins!

IMG_6286Edit.jpg
 
Coconut Pete, right on ! My 78 vibes just right, suppose tuning is likely a variable.. When my 78 is doing the backward center stand dance, everybody smiles ! When riding the mirrors shake & blur a little of course but there are really no vibes that put my hands to sleep or annoy me.. I am a fan ! -RT
 
Check ALL your motor mounts. If they're loose, that can add vibration, and they do get loose. When I got mine, not just a few but all were loose.
 
Re. carb synch: unless things are really wonky this will have the strongest effect on vibration at idle. As the throttle plates open, the difference in adjustment between them becomes less in proportion to total area of exposed venturi. Re. ignition: this factor will be most significant with OE dual breaker points.

Three important factors haven't been mentioned. 1. Compression: there should be no more than 10% difference between cylinders. If there's more, vacuum readings from a manometer won't be very helpful. 2. Motor mounts: be sure they're torqued to spec. If you don't have a manual, use the Tech button to find one. 3. Crank: Yamaha specifies .002" as max runout at the journals. That's enough to introduce some pretty harsh vibration, and I've seen worse from the factory. The best factory crank I've seen had no measurable runout at the journals and .002" runout measured at the flywheels. With beam balanced Venolia 77.5 mm. pistons, the result was the smoothest XS650 motor I ever ran. For crank truing procedures, search and find.

Edit: Apologies to 5twins, who did point to the motor mounts as a common culprit!
 
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Its running this already:
  • Sudco Carb kit with individual Air Filters (Mikuni VM34 carbs)
  • PMA charging system (from Hughes Handbuilt)
  • Hooligan Exhaust Pipe system
  • Pamco High Output Standard Ignition Kit
( For the curious: see this thread for full bike pics and other details:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/1982-xs-heritage-special-cafe-conversion-progress.48654/#post-494268 )

Idles fine, Higher rpms is fine, but something about that midrange 3100-4000 RPM just makes my teeth rattle.
HOWEVER: the cushions inserted in Original Post HELP and next up is cushioned footpegs (Harley type with adapter)
and this should sort it.

NB: I will, however, double check on the carb sync issues as well.
 

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