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Stator brush grounding
- Thread starter CC1
- Start date
70 thru 79 US bikes all work the same. Green is regulated power and black is ground.
If you look at a wiring schematic the Xs1and Xs1B the inner brush doesn't ground into the stator housing....if thats true then the nylon screw operation is not needed....am I right? LoL or is Clymer wrong?
And I've got a 6th wire coming out of the stator that is BLUE I've seen a YELLOW wire in the schematics that just caps off, for some reason but never a BLUE one. I'm guessing someone could have spliced the yellow with a BLUE wire sometime in history. I'll find out when. look in the side cover.
Xs1 and 1B didn't have the yellow wire. That came along on the XS2 when the starter was added.
Light blue wire comes from the neutral switch behind the cylinders it goes into the stator harness and is connected to the main harness through the 6 pin plug.
Hey I just got down and shined a light and your exactly right. It's the neutral indicator wire...lol. Thanks alot
From an unmolested 71 XS1B
The factory wiring diagram
it doesn't show the ground through the screws but they are there.
The factory wiring diagram
it doesn't show the ground through the screws but they are there.
Yes I just took off the cover and seen it also. In my Clymer it shows the a different schematic for the brush on a XS1 and XS1B...no big deal. .this motorcycle my father built in 1973. It's a 650 twin engine with a Shell kit and stuffed in a late SL350 chassis. He wrecked it out running the cops 50yrs ago. He out ran 4 counties and 2 state troopers back and forth through 2 county's 3 times...they never caught him.
I just found the motorcycle a month ago on Facebook marketplace. It's gonna run good. Thanks for your help man
I just found the motorcycle a month ago on Facebook marketplace. It's gonna run good. Thanks for your help man
Hey Gary what's your opinion on the nylon screw to isolate the brush mod and running a reg/rect as opposed to using a split type like it was meant to use. I've not took the time to totally wrap my head around the whole reason for isolating the brush ect so I can't honestly make a good decision....
Great story on the the heritage of your bike!
I'm guessing you will not use this as a cross country traveling machine.
There are several howto's on here about using readily available new and automotive components to make a "modern electronic" split Rectifier regulator set up for small money. But I have run a lot of miles on 5 or 6 early mechanical regulator bikes with zero problems. If clean inside they are easy to set and are like energizer bunnies.
I can't count how many early systems on barn bikes I've resurrected that just went back to doing their job with zero attention needed.
I'd bet dollars to donuts the old Yamaha mechanical regulator has a better track record then the cheap Chinese solid state regulators sold by various vendors, that have been the subject of MANY threads here, having failed immediately or in pitifully short time. Stock rectifiers are also near bullet proof and easy to test.
Brushes and rotors ARE on my must check, test list.
I'm guessing you will not use this as a cross country traveling machine.
There are several howto's on here about using readily available new and automotive components to make a "modern electronic" split Rectifier regulator set up for small money. But I have run a lot of miles on 5 or 6 early mechanical regulator bikes with zero problems. If clean inside they are easy to set and are like energizer bunnies.
I can't count how many early systems on barn bikes I've resurrected that just went back to doing their job with zero attention needed.
I'd bet dollars to donuts the old Yamaha mechanical regulator has a better track record then the cheap Chinese solid state regulators sold by various vendors, that have been the subject of MANY threads here, having failed immediately or in pitifully short time. Stock rectifiers are also near bullet proof and easy to test.
Brushes and rotors ARE on my must check, test list.
On the '70 to '79 system, the inner brush is actually grounded by all three of it's mounting screws. The black ground wire attached to it isn't sending it a ground, it's picking one up and sending it back to the regulator .....
The outer brush, which is fed regulated power from the regulator, has it's mount screw and wire connection isolated from the stator housing. It has to or feeding power to it would cause a short .....
To understand the nylon screw mod, you need to learn a bit about the charging system or systems used on the 650. It uses an automotive style 3 phase alternator but there were two versions. The '70-'79 system grounds the inner brush full time through it's mounts and sends regulated power to the outer brush from the regulator. The '80-on system is sort of the opposite. It sends power to the inner brush full time whenever the key is on and the regulator sends a regulated ground to the outer brush. So obviously, two different kinds of regulators are used depending on how the brushes are wired. The '70-'79 system needs a power regulating regulator while the '80-on system needs a ground regulating regulator. In the automotive industry, these are actually labelled. A ground regulating regulator is called a type A while a power regulating regulator is called a type B.
The nylon screw mod is a way to use a type A ground regulating regulator on the early system that normally requires a type B power regulating regulator. But there's a bit more to it than just replacing the 3 inner brush steel screws. You must also change the wire to it from a ground to a switched power wire (on with the key). But honestly, I don't see the point in doing this because the correct type B power regulating regulator is readily available, either as a stand alone automotive unit or as a combined unit made special for bikes.
The outer brush, which is fed regulated power from the regulator, has it's mount screw and wire connection isolated from the stator housing. It has to or feeding power to it would cause a short .....
To understand the nylon screw mod, you need to learn a bit about the charging system or systems used on the 650. It uses an automotive style 3 phase alternator but there were two versions. The '70-'79 system grounds the inner brush full time through it's mounts and sends regulated power to the outer brush from the regulator. The '80-on system is sort of the opposite. It sends power to the inner brush full time whenever the key is on and the regulator sends a regulated ground to the outer brush. So obviously, two different kinds of regulators are used depending on how the brushes are wired. The '70-'79 system needs a power regulating regulator while the '80-on system needs a ground regulating regulator. In the automotive industry, these are actually labelled. A ground regulating regulator is called a type A while a power regulating regulator is called a type B.
The nylon screw mod is a way to use a type A ground regulating regulator on the early system that normally requires a type B power regulating regulator. But there's a bit more to it than just replacing the 3 inner brush steel screws. You must also change the wire to it from a ground to a switched power wire (on with the key). But honestly, I don't see the point in doing this because the correct type B power regulating regulator is readily available, either as a stand alone automotive unit or as a combined unit made special for bikes.
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I'll add that the type A regulators... affordable ones... seem to be getting harder to come by. At least the VR-794 is.
I hear ya man. Thanks...I sat down last night and thunk about it for a second and it's pretty darn simple. Thanks for the inputOn the '70 to '79 system, the inner brush is actually grounded by all three of it's mounting screws. The black ground wire attached to it isn't sending it a ground, it's picking one up and sending it back to the regulator .....
The outer brush, which is fed regulated power from the regulator, has it's mount screw and wire connection isolated from the stator housing. It has to or feeding power to it would cause a short .....
To understand the nylon screw mod, you need to learn a bit about the charging system or systems used on the 650. It uses an automotive style 3 phase alternator but there were two versions. The '70-'79 system grounds the inner brush full time through it's mounts and sends regulated power to the outer brush from the regulator. The '80-on system is sort of the opposite. It sends power to the inner brush full time whenever the key is on and the regulator sends a regulated ground to the outer brush. So obviously, two different kinds of regulators are used depending on how the brushes are wired. The '70-'79 system needs a power regulating regulator while the '80-on system needs a ground regulating regulator. In the automotive industry, these are actually labelled. A ground regulating regulator is called a type A while a power regulating regulator is called a type B.
The nylon screw mod is a way to use a type A ground regulating regulator on the early system that normally requires a type B power regulating regulator. But there's a bit more to it than just replacing the 3 inner brush steel screws. You must also change the wire to it from a ground to a switched power wire (on with the key). But honestly, I don't see the point in doing this because the correct type B power regulating regulator is readily available, either as a stand alone automotive unit or as a combined unit made special for bikes.
I don't doubt what your saying one bit. I know if I kicked around the yard I've got a few laying around. I want to energize the rotor and run a reg/rec. I've never done it or even thought more than 2 seconds about it until last night. My old man was a witch at this stuff but I wanna see if I can do it. I appreciate it.
No Ggggary I'm not planning on a cross country tour but don't be surprised if I throw a finger up to the police and see if it's still got one more run left in it..lolOn the '70 to '79 system, the inner brush is actually grounded by all three of it's mounting screws. The black ground wire attached to it isn't sending it a ground, it's picking one up and sending it back to the regulator .....
The outer brush, which is fed regulated power from the regulator, has it's mount screw and wire connection isolated from the stator housing. It has to or feeding power to it would cause a short .....
To understand the nylon screw mod, you need to learn a bit about the charging system or systems used on the 650. It uses an automotive style 3 phase alternator but there were two versions. The '70-'79 system grounds the inner brush full time through it's mounts and sends regulated power to the outer brush from the regulator. The '80-on system is sort of the opposite. It sends power to the inner brush full time whenever the key is on and the regulator sends a regulated ground to the outer brush. So obviously, two different kinds of regulators are used depending on how the brushes are wired. The '70-'79 system needs a power regulating regulator while the '80-on system needs a ground regulating regulator. In the automotive industry, these are actually labelled. A ground regulating regulator is called a type A while a power regulating regulator is called a type B.
The nylon screw mod is a way to use a type A ground regulating regulator on the early system that normally requires a type B power regulating regulator. But there's a bit more to it than just replacing the 3 inner brush steel screws. You must also change the wire to it from a ground to a switched power wire (on with the key). But honestly, I don't see the point in doing this because the correct type B power regulating regulator is readily available, either as a stand alone automotive unit or as a combined unit made special for bikes.