Stella - 1977D survivor, back on the road.

[MaxPete]

Cool! Glad that steering stem lock thing works. The other day I actually found a trunk release button in my Miata (that I've owned for about 5 years).

I guess one really should read manuals - but just f@rting around and learning on the go is so much more fun!

One more little point on the puller - you hit it right on the end of the screw (as though you were trying to drive it in like a nail). That little shock may break up any corrosion and allow the rotor to slip off nice as you please.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[Mailman]

Every little problem is an opportunity to learn and with success, to look back upon with pride.

Daniel, I love your attitude. I used to have a co worker that used to tell me " that problems are just an opportunity for me to shine."
YOU reflect that can do attitude. You continue to motivate me.

 

[MaxPete]

+1 - DB is the determination man! ...and such good guy too.

Besides, he knows where the best BBQ in AZ is located!

 

[Mailman]

Haha! I know! How do I not know about that place?

 

[MaxPete]

You guys should do a meet up there w. Azman! Neat place - spectacular food!

Pete

 

[DanielBlack]

Thank you, Bob, Pete.

I must say that I wouldn't feel this way about my Honda Fit. And I much prefer a smooth day at work.

I knew what I was getting into with this bike. When I bought her I was purposefully buying into a hobby and learning experience. I'd feel differently about the challenges if I thought I could just ride. But in truth, the maintenance and refurb is my main pull to the hobby.

And, my good sirs, the inspiration flows all ways through this forum.

Little Miss BBQ. The best I've had outside the Southeast. Wonderful family running the shop, too. Anytime you want to go, I'm game.

 

[DanielBlack]

Tuesday: stripped the L cover off, removed old stator, applied penetrating oil to old rotor on the crankshaft. Checked sprocket nut torque and chain tension. Clutch pushrod seal looks dry. Flushed and oiled the sticky throttle cable.

Wednesday: while sitting with my coffee and Clymer I watched the mailman deliver Mailman's rotor puller. A few minutes and a tap, tap, tap later, she was off. Cleaned and dressed rotor mount.

Thursday: with today's coffee the mailman delivered a used rotor/stator set from Gary's Emporium of Fine Used Parts. Installed with no issues.

I've only done a quick driveway warmup.

At idle, no headlight 12.5v
3000rpm, no headlight 13.9/14v
3000rpm with headlight 13.7v

That's all on my dash voltmeter, ~.18v below battery.

Looking good! I may get out this evening for a test ride.

Toasty, eh?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Looking just past where the harness enters the housing, and makes a left turn, a piece of lash cord is burned-off of your toasted unit.

It also appears that your new stator has more windings.

Any difference in the LD-115-xx housing numbers?

 

[DanielBlack]

Old: LD115-02 (606)
New: LD115-02 (706)

The lash cord is still there. But as has everything in there, it's definitely seen some heat.

 

[Mailman]

I had a hunch you would have that old girl running today. Well Done!
That replacement set sure does look nicer.
I'm just curious, how was your crankshaft seal holding up?
That was the whole reason I pulled my rotor off. Because the inside of the stator was an oily mess.

 

[DanielBlack]

I recalled that from your thread and was sure to look at it while I was in there. Looked good.

 

[Mailman]

Good news then! All around.
I'll tell you Daniel , a lot of motorcycles have been parked and forgotten about for having problems like yours. Stella is lucky to have you!

 

[DanielBlack]

Thanks, Bob, you are too kind. Just trying to be sure I get to work and home reliably. And the Fit is just not enough fun.

 

[MaxPete]

Excellent work DB - really well done!

....in a different sense of the term than your old alternator.....

 

[MaxPete]

Old: LD115-02 (606)
New: LD115-02 (706)

I'd guess those last few digits are just the cavity numbers in the casting die for that part (one came of cavity 606 and the other out of cavity 706). If you look on the bottom of any ketchup or shampoo bottle, you'll often find a number - same thing - it's usually a cavity number in a multi-cavity mold.

Anyhow - Stella is getting better every day!

 

[retiredgentleman]

DB..................that is looking real fine! 13.9 volts at the battery, with headlight on @3000 rpm should get the job done.
Gary's parts are a handy source to have.

 

[DanielBlack]

Update: 100 miles on the replacement used alternator. Cruising charge (indicated on dash) is a reliable 13.9v for the first couple miles, 13.7v thereafter.

When I replaced the clutch pushrod seal (still dry!) and the two short rods for a single long, I had also performed maintenance on the worm. However, when I reassembled I had not adjusted the cable correctly; I had left too much slack to be taken out at the perch. This put the perch adjustment screw on its last few threads and the worm arm at a disadvantageous position.

What had sent me astray was the instruction to turn the worm adjustment screw until you feel resistance. In reading some great threads which I'll link to below, I was inspired to figure out how to go about taking most of the slack out at the worm adjustment screw instead of at the perch. What I found when I started playing with it is that there are two points of resistance. Continuing past this first point, I could feel the lever tighten up as I 'feathered' it as described by 5twins. Success! No doubt I could take up a little more with the worm adjustment, but this amount did the trick. Easier and smoother lever action. Worm arm position much better.

Much info and a bit of a wormhole:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-worm-actuator-experiment-tidbits.31554/

My stock clutch system is tuned rather well now, but there are plenty of improvements to be made. Thank you, 2M and others who contributed to the threads affiliated with the link above.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hahaha, .....worm hole.

 

[MaxPete]

Nice job - I need to day the same on Lucille, but it's just too cold and at to work outside right now.

Dangit.

 

[5twins]

Your pics nicely illustrate how too much perch adjustment can really throw the worm arm to cable angle off. Best leverage and operation is obtained when they're at 90° to one another. We strive to set it a little less than 90° so the arm sweeps through that angle as you pull the lever. Adjusting almost entirely at the worm is the only way to achieve this.

The instructions telling you to tighten the worm adjusting screw "until slight resistance is felt" are misleading. You really need to tighten the screw until it basically comes to a hard stop, then back off slightly. Keep checking the freeplay up at the lever as you tighten the screw. You should be able to get it all the way down to 1/4" or maybe even less. Then you can finish with just a turn or 2 at the perch. But what you need to keep in mind is that any adjustment at the perch is going to change your worm arm to cable angle. That's why you don't want to do very much adjusting there. Do most or even all of it down at the worm gear screw.

Something else I'll mention about the perch adjuster. You want to set it so the cable slot in the side faces anywhere but straight back, the more towards the front the better. I set mine forward and down slightly. This stops the cable from popping in and out of the slot every time you pull the lever in.