Steps for replacing the valve stem seals ?

[EvenmoreXS]

I've been looking but I havent been able to find good instructions for replacing the valve stem seals. I've read you can do it with the engine in the bike. This would be best in my situation. Bike runs well but seems to be using oil. No leaky spots under the bike. Doesnt seem to smoke while riding. Very little white smoke from the right exhaust, but thats only right after starting the bike in the morning with the choke. No clouds, just a few puffs when I bump the throttle. Doesnt last long at all. The slowly disappearing oil is what concerns me more. It doesnt last between changes. I have to top it off once or twice between, depending on how much I ride. Doesnt leak when sitting. Has to be leaking under riding, or slowly burning it. Right?

Opinions, ..... Links to good threads with directions.

As always, any help is appreciated.

Thanks Everyone !

 

[5twins]

Pamcopete came up with a little homemade tool for doing this. Maybe he'll chime in here and if not, you could P.M. him.

 

[EvenmoreXS]

Pamcopete came up with a little homemade tool for doing this. Maybe he'll chime in here and if not, you could P.M. him.

Thanks twins. I'll give him a chance and pm him later if he doesnt see the thread.

FYI Twins, I got my Uni PK-92's in yesterday and they fit great. Should help with tuning.

 

[deadchef]

here is a link to grepper's write-up...

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=EngineStock&action=display&thread=12269

 

[EvenmoreXS]

here is a link to grepper's write-up...

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=EngineStock&action=display&thread=12269

Thanks,

How about this though.....I dont seem to have any oil on my plugs???

 

[EvenmoreXS]

here is a link to grepper's write-up...

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=EngineStock&action=display&thread=12269

So the seals are right under the colets???

Compress the spring, remove the colets, remove the seals, replace the seals, replace the colets, decompress the springs.

This is not perfect , but the long story short of the project....correct?

Where else could the oil be going?

 

[grepper]

Farrell who does some writeups on 650central.com wrote me way back and asked if he could put the procedure on Farrell's Shade Tree Corner. I said sure, his writeup is even better.
http://www.650central.com/smoking_due_to_worn_valve_seals.htm

 

[deadchef]

you can expect a little consumption. you never stated how much or how often you need to fill up. if your plugs have no evidence of burning oil i would wait until you have properly identified where its going. you might go through all the trouble of changing valve seals and find out your pushrod seal needs replacing. or maybe its coming out the breather. personally i would wait on valve seals until you're ready to do the rest of a top end rebuild.

 

[XSLeo]

If your not getting fouled plugs and the oil consumption is not bad then why worry?
Another thing is oil level. If you try to keep it up to the top mark on the dipstick you are overfilling it and the extra gets blowed out the breather.
Keep the level half way between the top and bottom marks.
Leo

 

[pamcopete]

Pamcopete came up with a little homemade tool for doing this. Maybe he'll chime in here and if not, you could P.M. him.

Thanks, 5twins, but grepper came up with an even better tool and procedure.

 

[EvenmoreXS]

If your not getting fouled plugs and the oil consumption is not bad then why worry?
Another thing is oil level. If you try to keep it up to the top mark on the dipstick you are overfilling it and the extra gets blowed out the breather.
Keep the level half way between the top and bottom marks.
Leo

The worry is just based on my expectation that if I put oil in, that the same amount would come out in 1000 miles when I changed the oil. But I have to add before then. I will pay more attention to how much and when after my next oil change. Maybe that will help with trouble shooting.

Part could be overfiling, I like to keep it close to the top line, but if thats wrong then my bad and maybe the missing oil is not so bad. I havent notice anything coming from the breather, no oil on engine below the breather, ...which is a one way check valve.

So, between full and empty is the correct level? I do have more valve noise at that level. When I get there, I ususally add a bit of oil. But I can stop that if I need to.

But that opens the door to the question, why have a full mark? Why not have a "your stupid if its this low" mark, and a "your R_Tarded if you filled it this full" mark.

Sometimes us tards need more info.

Thanks Everyone !

 

[Rexxis]

you might go through all the trouble of changing valve seals and find out your pushrod seal needs replacing.

Pushrod seal? Am I missing something?

I would like to know what seals you are referring to though bc, my top end is apart right now, I just replaced my valve seals. Are there other seals on the top end besides camshaft seals, that I am unaware of?

 

[deadchef]

Pushrod seal? Am I missing something?

I would like to know what seals you are referring to though bc, my top end is apart right now, I just replaced my valve seals. Are there other seals on the top end besides camshaft seals, that I am unaware of?

i was only suggesting it could have been some other spot on the engine that could be seeping oil. ie, pushrod, crank, driveshaft seal, etc.

 

[Rexxis]

Oh, ok. Gotcha

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hey, EvenmoreXS,
Just thought I'd toss this into the mix:
Take a clean finger (hard to find nowadays), and run it around inside the left muffler opening. If that side's running right, should be just a thin dusting of dry soot. Do same with right side, is it darker/slimier? If right plug is clean, then could be bad ex seal that side. Also, given the amount of mix/match I see going on here, there may be the outside chance you've got the wrong dipstick. Heard of some stories there. Could shine flashlight into plug holes, see if piston domes look different. While looking, rotate engine to see backside of valves.

Enjoy...

 

[EvenmoreXS]

I'll do that 2many. The wrong dipstick? I guess thats possible. I think Im missing the washer on the dip stick I have now. I'll look into that.

Push rod seal is good. Just replaced it. It was seeping, but NO more drips at all. See install pics.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Clever! My 5-lb sledge saw that picture and jumped outta it's drawer, ready to smack...

 

[xjwmx]

I'll do that 2many. The wrong dipstick? I guess thats possible. I think Im missing the washer on the dip stick I have now.

You can lose a fair amount of oil over the mileage you're talking about from it seeping out or getting slung out where the stick goes in, if you're missing a good seal there. Cork is best and it's what came on it originally.

Another possibility is a loose head bolts. Oil can leak internally from a passage into a combustion chamber. Re-torque the head bolts, paying careful attention to what you're doing.

Also, an apparently competent rebuilder on here says his rebuilds use a qt of oil every 1000 miles. So if you were to rebuild you might not gain anything.

 

[EvenmoreXS]

Clever! My 5-lb sledge saw that picture and jumped outta it's drawer, ready to smack...

Pushed it in by hand. Worked great. Leave that hammer in the drawer.

 

[gggGary]

Just a mention I have a 79 about 20K miles runs great, no smoke, no drips, goes through a 1/2 quart every 300 miles. Stock air boxes and crank vent setup. I suspect an intake valve seal because I think an exhaust seal would smoke but don't know for sure. That engine just has to come out for a top, that's too much consumption for me.