Stiff gear selection

[Jon Butler]

Hi everyone, just joined today so hopeful of some useful exchanges of information and interaction. I have a bog standard XS-1B from circa 1971, which I've owned since 2008and love it!

I live in the UK and brought the bike across from the US as the early models are rare over here. I ride the bike on regular occassions in the warmer months. The bike always draws lots of attention even when there's plenty of british iron to hand. It's not mint condition, but more like a well read book (slghtly ruffled) but still in fair condition and still carries the original gold paint throughout. I may restore it one day but for now I like it just the way it is!

I'm seeking some advice though, and having already read some other users comments may now be onto something. I have two minor issues with the bike; a) The clutch is stiff to pull, other members mention this and it seems that a new cable and perhaps a new helix mechanism might be the answer.

b) the gears (transmission) get harder to select the longer I run the bike, I really have to start getting quite rough on the gear change lever to make the selection happen (both up and down the box) any suggestions? Regards to all. Jon

 

[hotdog]

Hi Jon - have you tried adjusting the clutch at all..?

I did read somewhere on this forum posted in the last week by one of the older (more experienced) members that the xs650 can have issues with gear selection once the engine reaches operating temperatures due to the clutch being incorrectly adjusted.

In the meantime use the search function at the top of the page to try & resolve your issue.

 

[XSLeo]

I'd start by lubeing the cable with motor oil. Take the cable loose at both ends or remove the cable and hang up by one end. Make a funnel around the upper end of the cable. I use kitchen foil. Fill the funnel with oil then let it set, keeping oil in the funnel. Eventually oil will drip out the lower end. Sliding the inner core up/down in the housing will speed this up.
Take the left cover off and remove the inner part of the worm, clean the inner and outer parts. A generous coat of grease on both parts. Reassemble, reattach the cable. Now properly adjust the clutch by loosenening the lock nut under the chrome cover on the left side cover. Loosen the screw up a few turns spin the screw in and out to get a good feel for how hard the screw turns.
Now turn the screw in til you just feel resistance. Back the screw off 1/8 turn, spin the lock nut down with out letting the screw turn, get it snug. 10-15 ft/lbs. Now up at the lever end adjust for 1/8 inch or 3 mm free play.
With these procedures your clutch should be easy enough to pull with two fingers. Mine is and I have 70 lb Kibble White springs in the clutch, instead of the less than 50 lb stock springs.
If it's still hard to pull, exercise your hand. By pulling the clutch not your ....
As to the hard shifting, The cases expand faster than the pushrods in the clutch, so as it gets warm the lever won't open the pressure plate as much. This increase in clutch drag makes shifting harder. Once your bike gets this warm you can tighten the cable adjuster at the lever to regain the 1/8 inch/3 mm freeplay. Quite a few of these bikes act this way.
One thing that can help is to look at your worm, the length of the lever and the mounting point for the cable has an effect on clutch action. If you look at the one Mike's sells you will see it has a long arm with two holes. One hole is out at the end of the arm and one in close to the hub. The outer hole lets the lever pull a bit easier but won't open the clutch as far. The inner hole pulls harder but opens the clutch farther.
I have one of these and I use the hole in close.
The more the clutch opens the better it shifts. Less drag.
Here's a pic of Mike's worm. Notice the holes in the arm.
Some of the stock bikes had short arms with a close hole others a longer arm with the hole farther out.
Leo

 

[GreasyC]

Personally I just do the complete clutch adjustment when the engine is hot. At least a 20 minute ride beforehand. I do almost everything with the bike hot. Unless it's something to do with the choke obviously, or the valve gaps.