stock hub, new rear rim

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I have a 79 special that i want to put an 18" rear wheel on.
I'm going to use the same hub, just buy a new rim and relace the wheel.

Will any 2.15 x 18 x 36 spoke rim work? It seems like it would; the only problem I can foresee is if the spokes coming out of the hub don't line up properly with the nipples on the new rim.

Are there any pitfalls to avoid as far as rim purchase goes?
 
I've done rim swaps a few times; but I always purchase new SS spokes to go with the rim. If you are putting on a new rim, you could go larger in width. I've got an Excell 17x3.5 coming (more options for tires), but it's on a Mule swingarm so there's a bit more width.

Buchanan's in Calif has about anything you could want. A little pricey, but everything always fits. Their price for lacing is crazy though; if you don't do it yourself, buy the parts from them and have a local shop lace and true.

Depending on what look you are after, you have a choice of dimpled or non-dimpled. On the last rim I did, they did not have the size/spoke count I needed in a dimpled rim. The dimpling gives the nipples the correct angle to aim towards the wheel flange. The non-dimpled worked, but it took a couple wraps of duct tape AND a heavy duty rim band to smooth over the crazy angles the nipples made inside the rim.
 
A 2.5 rim? My understanding is that a 130/90 is about the biggest tire I can get on the rear, and the ones I've seen call for a 2.15 rim. I'd definitely go a little wider if I thought I could.

I've laced up some bicycle wheels before, and frankly, the motorcycle wheel looks easy.

As far as mikesxs goes, I would prefer not to get a rim and spokes from there. They seem to have reviews on the forums ranging from mediocre to terrible.

I've never heard of Buchanan's, but I'll google them.

So what it comes down to is that I should get a dimpled rim. Outside of that I ought to be okay. Correct?
 
Actually, 3.5. But it's on a Mule swingarm :D

IMO, yep on the dimpled...and you can use either Excell or Sun rims. Excell are (I think) more common. Their website has a lot of data to read.

They will also need a spoke/nipple material, size, and finish. SS is most common. Polished is an option. They can tell you stock size (if you ask), and you can sometimes go up or down a size. Swaged (I.e., diff sizes at nipple and rim) is most typical, but again, they can do about anything. Cross pattern (x2, 3, 4) is usually dictated by the hub, but they can sometimes also make changes. If you go SS spokes and nipples, don't forget the anti-seize lube from them. Once a nipple galls on a spoke, you're screwed...

Their ordering system is...odd. You will need to call them, and discuss the options. Then you need to send them an email stating EXACTLY what you discussed. They then (usually) send you a confirming order in a couple days, and a couple days later a phone call for credit card info. This last time they just had a person call and asking for my credit card number - no confirming email of the order. I had to ask they send me a completed order first via email - highly suggested to confirm that they understood correctly...

Changing rims sounds simple; but there are several decisions necessary that can affect your desired result.

Oh - Woody's Wheels in Denver (I think?) also does really good work. But I believe he get his stuff from Buchanan's. There is a massive thread over at ADVRider if you want to peruse several hundred wheel questions/answers...
 
Thanks guys, for all the information.
I was planning on using the Firestone Deluxe Champion tires; they are specifying a 2.15 rim. However, according to the pdf from 4g, I can go 2.5 on the rim.

2Many, thanks for the links. Exactly what I was looking for. I'll sit down tonight and read through them in depth.

pago, good info on Buchanan's, I may just put it in their hands, but I'd really like to build that wheel if I can.

""I will guess that cost IS an object here. My best advice is that you need to adjust your thoughts a bit. The XS is a 60s 70's design street bike. The 2.15 rear rims were considered state of the art for 70's street design on Japanese and Euro bikes. If you go wide you need to bring a lot of things along for the ride. Even going to wide rims leaves you with a fairly narrow hub design with 90 degree bent spoke heads so only so much wheel stability is available. Note the dirt bike hub above has a much wider base and uses only a slight bend of the spoke head theoretically creating a more stable wheel overall. ""

4G, you posted that in the second of the threads that 2Many linked to (sorry, I'm not sure how to pull a quote from another thread and have it show up here.) I'm curious as to how wheel stability is affected by rim width. It seems like the wider the rim and hub, the stronger the wheel? So adjusting rim width without taking into account hub width could lead to a less robust wheel?

One other thing - I've read that the Firestones are crap tires. (I know my dad hates them, ever since a set failed on his '56 Tbird convertible. That was probably 50 years ago, but he still holds a grudge.) :D
Any suggestions for new tires? I like the traditional look of the tread on the Firestones, but that's of secondary importance if they are likely to fail.
 
The only problems I've heard about with Mikes spokes have to do with the 16" rear rims. I've used their 18" rear and 19" front spokes, both the cad and stainless, with no problems.
 
You're doing good reading and think'n.

I misunderstood the reason you want a 130/90 tire. I figured with the wider section you were after cornering ability. Since you are talking firestones I'll guess it's the more massive look of the fatter tire. So rim width and the stability of the wheel are secondary for you.

The point of my ramble in that other thread was; even with a wide rim and modern grippy tire it's still attached to an old school somewhat flexy wheel, spoke, hub combo. Get all that changed to a stronger modern, design and it's still attached to a flexxy frame. If you read about 70's road racing you will see how as the engine power ramped up the whippy tube frames made for evil, scary handling. Those racers carried big ones. That Kenny could herd those TZ750s around the tracks is a feat for all times.
 
gggGary said:
I misunderstood the reason you want a 130/90 tire. I figured with the wider section you were after cornering ability. Since you are talking firestones I'll guess it's the more massive look of the fatter tire. So rim width and the stability of the wheel are secondary for you.
Click to expand...

Initially, I did want the look. But now after kind of thinking aloud on this thread, I'm tending more towards performance.
The point of my ramble in that other thread was; even with a wide rim and modern grippy tire it's still attached to an old school somewhat flexy wheel, spoke, hub combo. Get all that changed to a stronger modern, design and it's still attached to a flexxy frame. If you read about 70's road racing you will see how as the engine power ramped up the whippy tube frames made for evil, scary handling. Those racers carried big ones. That Kenny could herd those TZ750s around the tracks is a feat for all times.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. Makes perfect sense. Gotta consider the whole system.

I'll keep looking into it, but I think right now that I'll go with Shinko 712 tires, and Mike's XS rims and spokes.
Thanks to everyone for the replies....:thumbsup:
 

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