threads/ helicoil

WELDFAN

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hello, so when diving into certain problems i found that one of my valve cover post threads has been over torqued causing there to no longer be any threads. well i can either just use my skills and simply weld a bunch of aluminum in the hole, re tap and re install the post to solve the problem or i can use a fix that most people without welding ability's can do. the advantage of not welding this section of the motor are: not having to make sure that the area is not heat effected (warping) and not having to provide the shop/ ability to weld aluminum that has soaked in oil for a very long time.
 
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the way i intend to fix this is using a helicoil or insert to correct the threads. as i posted i could fix this using my skills but rather walk people thru a method that is more common to the average person
 
Been there, done that. Helicoils are easy and do the trick. One thing I did was to install the Helicoil with red locktite then you know it isn't going to come loose.
 
its not that I don't have the weld skills, its just that I only have a mig at home, and warpage could happen, also, oil soaked aluminum dosnt tig very well, plus, who knows what alloy they used to cast these parts. could end up with popping/porosity.
Helicoil is cheap, and it works. Like said, lock in with quality real locktite. not that hardly right(HF) shit.
No ones gonna blame you for taking this shortcut. no one will know but you, and us. Drill straight, mark your bit so you don't go any deeper than you need to. Busting thru the other side could put chips in your motor.
 
i had to go get a helicoil kit for the size, so i will be fixing it and posting within a few days. i am also going to be making some support rods for the back fender im going to mount. should be intresting
 
timeserts remind me very much of the ring lock systems i use from time to time but with the top ring fixed. i have not dealt with timeserts but they look just as simple and following the same concept as the other two. maybe ill do a video of inserting some into test metal for fun, the lock ring ones are cool to show
 
You'll need a special Heli-coil bottoming tap to do a blind hole. Best deal I've run across are these on eBay .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130705967851?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

If you price them elsewhere, you'll see just one runs near half that.



awesome looking out 5twins, luckily for me working in a machine/ weld shop i will be able to grab a tap, the only problem is we do no t use metric so our supplies in that area was limited or i would have grabbed just an insert and made a quik tool for the install, im takin gfriday off and will be doing the insert... along with hopping up my mini bike for sundays ice race hahaha :thumbsup:
 
The problem with Heli-coil taps is they're special and the sizes are a closely guarded secret. They are also larger than the bolt size they're intended for. In other words, an M6 Heli-coil tap doesn't make an M6 threaded hole. It is larger to accept the threaded insert that does have the M6 internal size. Even if you have a Heli-coil tap, you can't get a normal tap size off the side of it. They number them special with their own codes.
 
you have to remove a lot more material to install a time-sert, heli-coil just slightly more than thread size
pics are both 6mm kits
 

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I repaired the same hole on my XS650D with a helicoil. I did a depth test first on a
thick piece of aluminum. (You don't want to install a helicoil and have half of a turn or more left above the surface) You will do additional damage trying to get it back out.

After you calculate the required depth, put spacer(s) on the drill bit to prevent drilling
too deep or going thru. Good Luck
 
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