I want a tool like this for the nut on the steering head. Do you call that a clutch nut socket? I measured between cutouts and it's close to 35 mm. Can one of you verify this for me please? Thanks.
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Tool for steering head nut?
- Thread starter jetmechmarty
- Start date
I want a tool like this for the nut on the steering head. Do you call that a clutch nut socket? I measured between cutouts and it's close to 35 mm. Can one of you verify this for me please? Thanks.
No clue what you’d call that but it may be hard to find one with 6 posts.
The one you have pictured won’t work on a stem nut.
They do make a spanner for them though.
The one you have pictured won’t work on a stem nut.
They do make a spanner for them though.
I have the spanners. I’d like to get a torque wrench on it.
Check with Motion Pro. I have made them in the past from pipe about the size with careful measuring and cutting, grinding, filing.
Ahh got it.
Hopefully someone can come up with a name.
Hopefully someone can come up with a name.
Maybe this one, check with your local dealer , some carry a lot of motion Pro tools
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/motion-pro-spanner-nut-socket-yamaha?rrec=true&sku_id=1005741
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/motion-pro-spanner-nut-socket-yamaha?rrec=true&sku_id=1005741
Why would you use a torque wrench on that? You set bearing tension basically by "feel", how it steers and how easily the bars flop side to side. It's often a "ride and wrench" affair as well. You set the tension then test ride it. If you get them too tight, the bike will have a slow side to side "weave" at moderate speeds, say 25 to 35 mph.
Personally, I use the two spanner wrenches. You need two so you can hold the bottom nut as you tighten the top one against it and lock them together.
Personally, I use the two spanner wrenches. You need two so you can hold the bottom nut as you tighten the top one against it and lock them together.
Me too. But I have tapered roller bearings in everything I mess with. Easy. My SH has ball bearings and they’re perfect. I also have perfect spares. It’s not so easy to find that sweet spot. They roll fast. The FSM has a torque spec to set them. I assume they’re less likely to brinnel if correctly installed.
I'd just get a normal socket of a suitable size, and cut/ grind with an angle grinder. Shouldn't be too hard or time consuming.
The other alternative would be to adapt a C-spanner to take a torque wrench. Sort of like a crowfoot wrench. Just make sure it is at 90 degrees to the torque wrench, so no additional leverage is created.
The other alternative would be to adapt a C-spanner to take a torque wrench. Sort of like a crowfoot wrench. Just make sure it is at 90 degrees to the torque wrench, so no additional leverage is created.
I have tapered bearing in everything also and I just use the basic spanner also. Especially for these bikes. My FJR I use a socket spanner. But the bottom line is, tighten it by feel as 5twins explains. If you have or know a welder you could cut off a spanner and weld it to an old 3/8 socket to use on your torque wrench at a 90 deg angle.
I’m using the OE bearings as they aren’t broken. I’ll figure this out. I was hoping someone would have the answer on hand. I do appreciate the suggestions. Thanks.
My only suggestion when tightening head bearings of any type is as you tighten slowly to torque also slowly rotate the forks back and forth
I set it as I would any tapered roller bearings. I gotta say there just isn’t that sweet spot with these. The book gives a torque spec, then back off a quarter turn or something like that. Too bad that socket isn’t listed in the front of the book.
I posted hoping to simplify the task. Also, the ball bearings aren’t very forgiving.
On the FJR which is a much heavier bike most guys torque them (tapered bearings) a bit over the recommended ball bearing torque. On these smaller bikes I tighten them to the point I need to give a little push on the the handlebars for the wheel to fall side to side when elevated. You can over torque pretty easy which is evident by the weaving you get with the bike as your trying to go straight.
I'm afraid I find the tapered roller bearings, vs. ball bearings a lot like apples and oranges. Both bearings and both fruit.
The steering head takes some pretty heavy side loads. Not just in turns but in heavy front brake use too. The tapered rollers do much better with side loads than balls.
That's one reason wheel bearings are tapered rollers and not balls... constant side loading.
... fwiw of course....
Yep! This is mostly, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I'm surprised how light the steering feels with the balls. How long will they last. My first one's went a lot of miles with no maintenance. I'd like to see how they do with appropriate servicing.The steering head takes some pretty heavy side loads. Not just in turns but in heavy front brake use too. The tapered rollers do much better with side loads than balls.
That's one reason wheel bearings are tapered rollers and not balls... constant side loading.
... fwiw of course....
What I need is a 34 mm 6 pin spindle nut wrench.
How much of a hurry are you in?
What size is you torque wrench?
You want a socket to fit a standard steering nut?
Related;
I found a bearing maker that stated most "brinelling" isn't, it's a wear pattern from vibration causing the to oscillate against each other, the races pay the price (false brinelling.
That matters cuz well you ain't going to eliminate vibration from your 360 vertical twin.
https://www.malloywind.com/articles/false-brinelling
What size is you torque wrench?
You want a socket to fit a standard steering nut?
Related;
I found a bearing maker that stated most "brinelling" isn't, it's a wear pattern from vibration causing the to oscillate against each other, the races pay the price (false brinelling.
That matters cuz well you ain't going to eliminate vibration from your 360 vertical twin.
https://www.malloywind.com/articles/false-brinelling
