Tool for steering head nut?

Admittedly though, I've never torqued one.
Neither have I. We all know tapered roller bearings win the durability contest. Iā€™m hopeful that proper servicing and installation keeps the ball bearings going for a long time. I rode my XS650SK over 20,000 miles the first year I had it. I lived in Florida and my commute to work was 50 miles each way. The bike was it until I moved to Connecticut. I did not service those bearings, probably not until they failed maybe 20 years later.
 
When I was taught how to set front wheel bearings on cars it was a 5 step process. Snug the nut good and tight, spin wheel, back off nut until you feel no resistance, tighten nut until you just feel resistance then back nut up 1/8 turn and put in cotter pin.
Reason for the steps was to preload the bearing and then spin it to get the grease out between the bearing and the race then go to zero lash, lastly back it off a 1/8 turn to create a gap that bearing expansion and grease could fill.
When the bearing started to get warm grease would melt and cool the bearing down. I think railroad cars still use this theory of melting grease to this day.
 
When I was taught how to set front wheel bearings on cars it was a 5 step process. Snug the nut good and tight, spin wheel, back off nut until you feel no resistance, tighten nut until you just feel resistance then back nut up 1/8 turn and put in cotter pin.
Reason for the steps was to preload the bearing and then spin it to get the grease out between the bearing and the race then go to zero lash, lastly back it off a 1/8 turn to create a gap that bearing expansion and grease could fill.
When the bearing started to get warm grease would melt and cool the bearing down. I think railroad cars still use this theory of melting grease to this day.
Yes, but youā€™re still referencing tapered roller bearings. What I posted is for ball bearings.
 
It also sounds like you're talking about a wheel bearing, which spins very fast, and gets hot in the process. Steering bearings don't do that.
 
I like how Yamaha 'splained things in 1970....
1679918022836.jpeg

They thoughtfully don't mention you will have to undo much of your assembly to change the setting....

I tend to be Mr. get r done on special tools, but since I started using this old race welded to 8" of pipe with a "hammering" plate welded on the other end
steering bearing drift.jpg
to FIRMLY set new races I've seldom, never? needed to reset steering nuts after riding.
When the tone of the blows changes from thuds to a ring, one more time around and call it done
One of the jars of removed races and bearings out in TSOIR
KIMG3347.JPG
I don't know why i save this crap. :unsure:
 
That article isn't bad...
But they fail to analyze the assembly.
The R1 he mentions uses the same set up as most late model Yammies;
1679921173228.png

with that rubber and special washer in the stack, high torque setting of the top nut does NOT change the bearing preload BY DESIGN.
:twocents:It mostly acts to help the two triples and fork tubes lock into a rigid twist resisting assembly WITHOUT overloading the bearings.
Our XS650 top triple uses a clamp bolt instead of high torque on the top nut to resist twist. I'm sure reduced parts count, lighter weight, smaller size, quicker assembly all played into the change away from a clamp bolt there.
Note I have installed this type of stack on an XS650; the shed sitting YWAIN with FZR6 forks.
 
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So, this requires the same shimming of headlight brackets as the tapered roller bearing conversion, correct? The R1 got ball bearings because theyā€™re faster. The XS650 got ball bearings because theyā€™re cheaper.

I know I may be going over the top with this. Itā€™s because this is a hobby. Under normal circumstances, this conversation may not happen. How many people ride the same motorcycle for 40 years?
 
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So, this requires the same shimming of headlight brackets as the tapered roller bearing conversion, correct? The R1 got ball bearings because theyā€™re faster. The XS650 got ball bearings because theyā€™re cheaper.
I have not used this set up on a stock XS650 fork (as of yet...) yes you're going to raise the top triple, by maybe an 1/8"?
Since our top triple uses a clamp bolt on the stem, not high torque on the top nut, it's less important? Weight would also be a factor? ball bearings are lighter.
Applying race technology to street bikes can be problematic. Few street riders tear down their bike and replace all wear items on a daily or weekly basis.
 
The original swing arm bushings where fine as was the steering bearing when I got my 1980 w 8k miles on it about 12 years ago. I enjoyed the experience and learned from it. I also feel better about the steering bearings now I read about loads and stresses put on them. The original steering was so stable, it just never wobled at speed. I mean it's fine now up to as fast as I go anyway but it just fealt safer, better w original steering bearing. I wish I spent more time and money on the electric and carbs instead of unessesary "upgrades". When I got it. Some things that did help, smaller rear sprocket, Kawasaki clutch lever.
 
I pulled the top clamp off and torqued the bearings per the service manual. By feel, I'd say I wasn't close. Too loose. I'll sleep much better now. I hope it means longer life for the bearings.
 
I like how Yamaha 'splained things in 1970....
View attachment 239053
They thoughtfully don't mention you will have to undo much of your assembly to change the setting....

I tend to be Mr. get r done on special tools, but since I started using this old race welded to 8" of pipe with a "hammering" plate welded on the other end
View attachment 239054
to FIRMLY set new races I've seldom, never? needed to reset steering nuts after riding.
When the tone of the blows changes from thuds to a ring, one more time around and call it done
One of the jars of removed races and bearings out in TSOIR
View attachment 239055
I don't know why i save this crap. :unsure:
I have nothing to add other than I learned long ago why I save this crap.Re;The nice lady in the house hasnā€™t told me to stop,Yet.šŸ¤£
 

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