torque setting for tapered steering head bearings?

strang

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apologies if this has been discussed before but I searched and couldn't find a general torque setting for the newer tapered steering head bearings. Put new ones in over the weekend as the PO left off the the upper dust seat and cap :wtf: and it was getting dirt in there. I put new ones in and torqued the locking nuts to 10 ft-lbs and it feels pretty good. Is this in the ballpark?
 
There is no spec, you "set" them so the steering is right - not too loose and not too tight.
 
yeahh, not to loose, not too tight, ride around the neighborhood, and recheck, do it a couple times, and thats it. make sure the lock ring is doing its job, too.
 
pardon my ignorance angus67 but what is the lockring? is it the two steering nuts that have 6 tabs?
 
Yes, the two 6 tab nuts are what angus means. If you look at the nuts you will see they are slighty curved. Put the first nut on with the curve up, the second with the curve down. This locks the two together.
I use Harley's fall away method of adjustment.
With the bike up on the center stand, use a jack to lift the front wheel just of the ground. With the wheel satraight ahead hang a weight of the rear tip og the front fender, hang it so the weight is just off the ground. Put a mark under the weight. Now put a mark one inch to each side of the first mark. Now with just a light slow push on the end of one hand grip, move the wheel until it tips over off center on it's own. This is fall away.
While doing this watch the weight. As the wheel falls away the weight should be over one of the marks.
If the fall away is before the weight is over the inch away mark, then the bearings are to loose. If the fall away is after the mark the bearings are too tight.
Adjust the bearings untill the weight is over the inch away mark when it falls away.
Leo
 
I center the wheel with tire off the ground and let it fall to one side. If it bounces on the stops more than once the setting is too loose. Tighten untill it bounces just once.
 
I've always tightened mine until it would fall over gently to the stop but not bounce. Some say that's too tight, but have not had a problem.
 
The "how to" in the factory repair manual applies to the stock loose ball bearings. The tapered bearings are different and need a different procedure.
Even with the stock bearings I never got the forks to bounce no matter how loose you set the adjustments. The tapered rollers even less.
Leo
 
well that´s at least 3 people who really know their xs and get different results - wish me luck getting this one right :laugh:
 
well that´s at least 3 people who really know their xs and get different results - wish me luck getting this one right :laugh:

If it's too loose, it will try to head shake. If it's too tight, it won't want to go straight down the road on it's own. You'll feel like you are constantly having to steer it to go down the road. Ideally, you should be able to get up to speed and just let it go, and gyroscopic motion will keep your straight. When it's tight, the gyro can't self correct. When it's loose, the friction on the front tire forces it to the side that has the most rolling resistance, based on surface conditions. Once it drags the tire off center to that side, the other side presents a slightly larger surface area to the road surface, increasing it's friction, and pulls the tire back the other way. This osscilates back and forth, and creates the wobble effect.:thumbsup:
 
Yes, correctly setting the bearings is a "wrench and ride" operation. Adjust them then road test them. It may take several adjustments to get them just right. Since this is a new install, you may need to snug them up a bit again in a few hundred miles. As much as you try, you may not get the new races fully seated into the neck. Riding the bike will finish the job for you and the bearings may become a bit loose.
 
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