Turn Signal Wiring

hutch08

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So I'm at the wiring stage and I cant figure this out...

I'm using a trailer light converter module so I can use my rear dual filament bulbs as tail/signal/brake lights. All is well except for the signal portion, I've attached a rough drawing of what my wiring set-up is, except im no longer using led lights, just regular dual filament bulbs.

When I put power through the flasher the module wont flash the brights. Except if I tap the flasher it'll work. If I wire the flasher after the module it works fine, so I know the flasher is fine. But that wont work cause I would need 2 flashers, one for each light.

If I wire it up without the flasher it works fine, but obviously the bright just stays on.

So i dont know if the module is messed, or it has something to do with voltage/current draw within the module, anyone have any ideas?? I'm sick of fumbling over this :doh:
 

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So I'm at the wiring stage and I cant figure this out...

I'm using a trailer light converter module so I can use my rear dual filament bulbs as tail/signal/brake lights. All is well except for the signal portion, I've attached a rough drawing of what my wiring set-up is, except im no longer using led lights, just regular dual filament bulbs.

When I put power through the flasher the module wont flash the brights. Except if I tap the flasher it'll work. If I wire the flasher after the module it works fine, so I know the flasher is fine. But that wont work cause I would need 2 flashers, one for each light.

If I wire it up without the flasher it works fine, but obviously the bright just stays on.

So i dont know if the module is messed, or it has something to do with voltage/current draw within the module, anyone have any ideas?? I'm sick of fumbling over this :doh:

There are two types of two pin flashers, standard, this one uses currnet draw to heat the bimetal arm. It needs to have enough draw to heat up and flash. The other is a heavyduty flafer, this one has a heating coil built in and will flash reguardless of current draw. What ever type you have, i suspect the standard one, try the other.
 
yeah I actually tried 3 different flashers... 2 3-pin and 1 2-pin..

http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=478&P=104171

HD12 and HD13, as well as an LF12 which is the same as an HD12, just 5x Louder than standard flashers...

I the description of all of those flashers it says, flash rate is not affected by load variation. Those must all have the heated wire in them.

It doesn't make sense that it will flash after the module and not before. If that were on a car the flasher would be before the module.

In a car the power runs through the flasher to the turn signal switch then is directed to either left or right lamps, then to ground. When you wire in the module, you tap into the wires leading from the switch to the rear lights.

What is differant about your wiring on the bike?

The module, on a car, is actually running is in a parallel circuit rather than in series.

I'm just thinking out loud, i don't have an answer.
 
Yeah I guess it must be the module, for some reason it'll let the voltage through without the flasher but not with the flasher.... Still makes no sense to me!
 
Yeah I guess it must be the module, for some reason it'll let the voltage through without the flasher but not with the flasher.... Still makes no sense to me!
Hey,
What about a Tridon LED03 ... will this work on my stock 82 heritage special... any body tried this vs superbright's LF1-S-Flat..will cancellation switch still work.
Also has anyone used princess auto led 1157 and 1156 led lights SKU 8063869 and SKU 8063828 at $9.99 ea

Thanks, Leo
 
Most of those trailer converters are set up to control trailer lights and trailers have regular bulbs. The converters are set up for the load of regular bulbs. LEDs draw so much less as to appear to the converter as no load. Putting the flasher after the converter adds enough load so the converter works.
Leo
 
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