What have you done to your XS today?

But Lakeview, you have never met Mailman in person.....:bow2::bow2:

Organization or compulsion? You decide! o_O
C06DBC83-ACBB-4C80-B422-046060AD2126.jpeg 24EC5889-67B7-4CD7-A400-F5AFD599F7A5.jpeg 9DAFAA64-63CC-4B70-BE58-E05F9B9E67BC.jpeg 24459F72-B8F3-4511-98CD-0AA0466A3B29.jpeg 6C163F6B-66F6-4098-8458-205DF2E7DF65.jpeg It’s a sickness really. :shrug:
 
Alright an electrical experience and question here.
This early AM before work (yes, still lucky) I did hook hook up a 12V automotive bulb to a red and black test lead set and grounded the black to a fin. Put the red on the points and turned on the ignition on to see that bulb light up near TDC.. and it sure did. And that strong magnetic feel on the 17mm rotor nut was something new to me as well. I can see how this "tool" bulb is very beneficial in setting points timing.
Question is, Can I just freely do this awhile ? Or is there any concern of damaging an electrical component? Say condenser perhaps..
Thanks, -RT
 
I think your talking about static timing using a light. No longer than your going to be doing this, It won't hurt anything. (Need to have the plugs out and point gaps at .014) For static timing to be accurate, your timing chain needs to be adjusted because slop in it will affect timing, static and over all. You must turn the crank CCW and watch the light as the marks marry up. You can back the engine up CW, but make sure you back it an inch or so, then start toward the mark again. This is to keep the timing chain tight in direction of engine rotation. After you get it dialed in, switch to a running engine with timing light. It should be dead on. If not, it will be real close!
When points close light will be off.
When points are open light will be on.
When the points open, light just comes on, is when the plug fires. You want this to happen when the marks are dead on.
Be careful using the nut there to turn the motor. That shaft is damn small! Use the kick start. Backing the engine up is kinda of a trick
 
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Yes "static timing" with a bulb.
Thanks! So why do the spark plugs need to be out ? Easier engine rotation? And, I have used that 17mm rotor nut CCW for years doing points setting just because that kicker is on the far side. So far so good?
Yes, my timing light is definitely next up to confirm things.
:thumbsup:
 
Alright an electrical experience and question here.
This early AM before work (yes, still lucky) I did hook hook up a 12V automotive bulb to a red and black test lead set and grounded the black to a fin. Put the red on the points and turned on the ignition on to see that bulb light up near TDC.. and it sure did. And that strong magnetic feel on the 17mm rotor nut was something new to me as well. I can see how this "tool" bulb is very beneficial in setting points timing.
Question is, Can I just freely do this awhile ? Or is there any concern of damaging an electrical component? Say condenser perhaps..
Thanks, -RT
Condensor will be fine. The coils are gonna be live, so they'll get hot if on for an extended period. 40 odd yr old coils might not tolerate an extended heat soak, so I'd limit time to just a few minutes at a time. That's more than enough to set the timing.
The rotor's drawing about two and a half amps. You can disconnect the regulator to kill that while you're timing it.
 
Yep, easier to turn the engine. Yep, I've used the nut too, it just bothers me. With plugs out shouldn't be a problem. Yeah the kicker on the other side and because it moves the engine in spurts...but well worth the effort. Once everything is dead on, you will see a big difference in starting, running and mix. As you check it with a light from time to time, you'll see the marks progress CW. It should be a slow march over many miles. Your seeing timing chain wear. As the marks start nearing the CW side, adjust your Timing chain. I think Jim, sets his mark toward the CCW side ever so slightly, so it will fall more in as the chain wears. I try to do this too. Sometimes all the RCH's make a difference.
 
The other way to do it is to get a meter with an “audible” signal model.

Basically, it is a resistance setting and when the circuit is made (in other words, continuity exists), the meter makes a tone. As you turn the crank and points open, the tone stops - and that makes it easy to see where you are relative to your timing mark because you don’t have to watch a light AND the timing mark at the same time.

In my experience, the very cheapest meters do not have an audible setting, but if you spend just a little bit more money (like $25-30 all-in), you can get one with it. This makes static timing a piece of cake.
 
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Oh Ya! I agree .. a "buzz box" is a thing far in my BMW air head service days past.
That was so simple and now gone? IDK but I sure agree on an audible signal idea
 
The other way to do it is to get a meter with an “audible” signal model.

Basically, it is a resistance setting and when the circuit is made (I other words, continuity exists), the meter makes a tone. As you turn the crank and point open, the tone stops - and that makes it easy to see where you are relative to your timing mark because you don’t have to watch a light AND the mark at the same time.

In my experience, the very cheapest meters do not have an audible setting, but if you spend just a little bit more money (like $25-30 all-in), you can get one with it. This makes static timing a piece of cake.
Yep, works really well. But if like me, I have no high freq hearing left. I can't hear crickets, I can't even hear my new chicks peeping. Jet engines, just how it is.
 
The other way to do it is to get a meter with an “audible” signal model.

Basically, it is a resistance setting and when the circuit is made (I other words, continuity exists), the meter makes a tone. As you turn the crank and point open, the tone stops - and that makes it easy to see where you are relative to your timing mark because you don’t have to watch a light AND the mark at the same time.

In my experience, the very cheapest meters do not have an audible setting, but if you spend just a little bit more money (like $25-30 all-in), you can get one with it. This makes static timing a piece of cake.

I second this technique. Did this when I timed my bike.
 
Lemme clear up something lol.
Being once for awhile a BMW service tech sounds pretty high falutin?
Nope it was the opposite. A very small privately owned dealership which was about desperate.
Hippie owned, Dog permanent onsite, Stripper girl friend hanging around, Free Beer, practically an air head scrap yard next door too..
But I did get 2 weeks of school in LA to wrench. And I could borrow any running motorcycle for sale !
Rode lots of them. But I owned my pristine FJ1200 so I just wasn't too impressed.
Last job before leaving was a rebuild of an old R60 and that thing was cute !
 
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The 650 Tow Vehicle Does Work Today
Only tangentally related to 650's (but I did walk past one or two on the way out the door), there was this dark brooding blue spruce outside the kitchen window that had some dead branches in it, so I had a guy come and cut it down, then grind out the stump which left me with about a yard and a half of coarse resonous wood chips to get rid of. Couple hours shovelling this morning, off to the transfer station, shovel off, then to the nursery for a yard of triple mix ($64.00 plus $8.00 tax thank you) and back home to unload it. Good day's work done. Now to watch The 5.
 
I got my Pea Shooters a couple of days ago. Then a genius realized he didn't have any 1 5/8 muffler clamps to install them. I ordered two each from Mikes. So here I sit, doing everything but what I want to do, hear them babys bark! Then a light goes on! Why wait on the clamps, when I can jerk-off ( remove and replace) the left side with a Pea Shooter temporarily, and see how the Pea Shooter sounds compared with the right side. Yeah, man. I runs out and does the deed, just slips it on. The mounts I made for Mike's Commandos fit well enough to hold the peashooter in place. Ohhhh Man! I can't even hear the right side. The Pea Shooter is drowning it out. (Goose bumps!) Good pressure from the end of the PS also and it ain't sealed. Should have the clamps in a few days so I'm working on a new set of mounts especially for the Pea Shooters. I'm gona have to be careful with these babys! Big Namu, (Texas black and white) may hit the jackpot. Woof. (If this don't throw the next door ole lady's panties in a twist, there ain't a cow in Fort Worth! )
 
I think you have temporary clamps there you just haven't found yet?
4, too short hose clamps. 2 per muffler. Screwed together to make bigger ?
Raid the ranch !
Yes, my friend! I have clamps just the right size! ( Mike shipped my clamps today!) I'm working on the mounts now. :cheers:
 
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