What have you done to your XS today?

My first instinct is to keep my head down and ignore a oil question. Can't help myself.
20-50 is what I have used since day 1. If it is cold enough to need thinner oil you are probably are going to be close to your woodstove

All the engines after 74 are 447 engines.
My $.02 worth
Jack
 
My first instinct is to keep my head down and ignore a oil question. Can't help myself.
20-50 is what I have used since day 1. If it is cold enough to need thinner oil you are probably are going to be close to your woodstove

All the engines after 74 are 447 engines.
My $.02 worth
Jack
My engine has an oil window in the right side of the case. It's supposed to be an 81. My 77 engine starts 447. This one starts 4M4. So it's still a 447 engine?
Thanks, TJ.
 
The big change was 74 when the 447 series was introduced. Changes to the crank and pistons was the big change. As the models progressed sutule changes were made to among other things was the breather and cam chain tensioner . They added a plate to the clutch which I think your 4M4 has.
 
Yep, I read that. But it doesn't mention 4M4 Engine. Maybe I need more whiskey or an enema! The extra plate 5T was talking about in the clutch basket.
I'll get it eventually! Thanks Guys!
Basically there are only 3 XS650 engines. 256, 447 and 533. The rods make the difference. All the differences in each variation are considered minor. Most but not all parts will interchange between them. There is a fourth engine that is a derivative of the 256. Only 200 were produced. They were 750ccs. If you ever run across a complete factory 750 buy it and call me. Only made in 72 to meet AMA flat track racing rules.
 
Team Junk---I believe they eliminated one clutch plate, making it 6 plates, in the years 1980 and up.......The basket has a wire type device in the bottom to ease engagement....

tim
 
Got it back together and I AM getting oil to the head. I just took out the banjo bolts at the top of the head and turned the bike over with the starter until I saw oil coming from the ends line. Thanks for that suggestion Jim.

The new ignition system is very half ass wired together with things I had laying around when I tested it on the bench.

While the motor was out the bike also received new friction plates and clutch springs as well as a size up in the main jets and pilot jets. She also got a smaller 31T rear sprocket. It'll probably feel very different with all the improvements compared to the last time I rode it.
20200422_202607.jpg
 
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Upon reading some things here and there I read that you should NEVER align ring gaps to the wrist pins because this increases blow-by and oil consumption. Well, this just happens to be exactly what I did to the compression rings. Is this something to be concerned about? Time to tear it back down real quick?
 
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Hello people, was gone for a couple weeks
restart after the unplanned break, cleaning my 256 engines, first from from 3 motors, crank cases and valve cover to cylinder head with matching numbers
 

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Team Junk---I believe they eliminated one clutch plate, making it 6 plates, in the years 1980 and up.......The basket has a wire type device in the bottom to ease engagement....

tim

I guess I confused Gary's efforts to add a plate with the 80 up clutch. My bad.
 
Actually, they kinda did both. They added a spring-loaded steel plate to the bottom of the stack and to make room for that, they eliminated one friction plate.
 
Thanks 2M!
My Calipers don't go out that far but by dead reckoning with a tape, I got the short shaft, again! (Seems I'm always getting the short shaft) I'm thinking a small stainless washer for spacing? Also, I bought one of Mike's Advance disks some time back for the 77. It was rough, as the one in your #98 post and I sent it back because the pin slot was not cut deep enough. It wouldn't fit. Maybe they fixed them.
Thanks again 2M
 
Thuban, let's fire up the "wayback machine" again and go back to your post #8097 about the sump filters. Yes, most of us are familiar with the MikesXS offering and it's perforated sheet metal backing for the screen. That should make it better but it doesn't. If you examine one closely, you'll see that perforated backing doesn't come out to the screening in the area that always tears, it ducks behind the mounting bolt tube. So, it does no good there, this filter tears here just like an original. And that is what you found torn in the bike, an original. The "tells" are the square magnets and no pleating of the screen in that area that ripped. I have more against the MikesXS filter - the screen is coarser, the magnets are smaller, and they come loose and fall out. I prefer originals, even patched ones, over the aftermarket replacement.
 
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