Find a taylor and have him fit the 44?
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What have you done to your XS today?
- Thread starter I am Carbon
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You send that one back and get the 44! No Shit. You'll be glad you did!
Does yours have the footballs in the armpits. One model does, and another does not. More room with the footballs. You have the option of sending your measurements and getting a custom fit.
My tale tale light!
I needed a lite to tell me if I was having problems with the primary electrical circuit powering my coils. (Red w/White stripe) It needed to be small, bright and easily removable.
I took a 1 inch, schedule 40 PVC pipe and cut off a 3/8 inch ring. I then cut a section out of the ring allowing it to snap over the 7/8 bars. I used a 5mm red steady LED pre-wired lite, 6 to 12 V and some small multi-strand wire, heat shrink, a couple bullet connectors and a terminal end for the negative battery terminal.
Cleaned up the piece of PVC and used a Dremel tool to make a little "bed" for the LED.
I cut a 1/2 o.d. X 1/2 inch piece of heat shrink, lay the LED in it's bed and slid the heat shrink up over the led to hold it in place on the PVC ring.
I carefully heated the shrink, attaching the led firmly to the PVC ring. I snapped it over a 7/8 bar to check fit and finish.
I soldered up a pigtail to attach the black neg. wire with bullet connector to neg. battery terminal. Also soldered a bullet connector on the red wire to plug into the disconnected red w/ White wire at the started Sol. This wire is in the circuit of the coils positive power from the Stop and Ignition Switch. (If the bike won't start but the tale tale light is on, it's not because the coils arn't powdered. If the light flashes intermittently, there is a bad connection in the power to the coils. This can be monitored while riding as well as a no start after stop like I had been having. By jiggling wires and watching the lite, the loose connection can be identified and your not stranded. The circuit is protected by the main fuse.
Place Neg. terminal end under the Neg batt cable. It can be disconnected and the terminal end left in place. ( No pix, sorry) Plug the red wire into the Red w/White at the starter sol.
Run the wires under the tank and up to where you want the lite on the bars. Could have painted the PVC black or silver but I didn't.
Turn on the key and it's one bright lite.
Now, I suppose I could have cut the PVC in a wedge. After dressing it up, I would have a "Paddle shape" instead of a 3/8 ring. That paddle shape would not be hard to shape like a HAND with the light on the wrist, Grimmith, if you needed a small lite someplace for any reason. Just thinking. The PVC can be dressed down to blend with what ever they are clipped to and painted as you wish. Just saying. The LED's come in 3mm, 5mm like these, and many colors. You can even get them that flash! Cheap as beans. Works for me.
EDIT:
Well, who wouda thunk it! I decided to take a morning ride before the farm work ( cause that last till dark).
I got suited up, turned on the key and all was good, 11.6 V, green neutral lite and red light on the Ignition circuit.
I fired up the bike and eat me fer a tater, the red ignition circuit light was out. 13.8 V, 800/900 RPM, cold idle, and no light! What in the wide, wide, world of sports is a going on?
Some dumb a*s hooked the red led wire on the back side of the Safety Relay. It was turning the led off when the engine started!
If I had done like 5Twins said and just disconnected the Safety Relay, I would have seen I was on the wrong side, but noooooo. So I unplugged the Safety Relay connector ( It's Red w/ white is where I want to be), and removed the thing. Am making a pig tail with a spade on one end for the Red w/ white in the connector and a female bullet for the red wire to the LED, then I'll give it another go.
I rode anyway! It was great!
I needed a lite to tell me if I was having problems with the primary electrical circuit powering my coils. (Red w/White stripe) It needed to be small, bright and easily removable.
I took a 1 inch, schedule 40 PVC pipe and cut off a 3/8 inch ring. I then cut a section out of the ring allowing it to snap over the 7/8 bars. I used a 5mm red steady LED pre-wired lite, 6 to 12 V and some small multi-strand wire, heat shrink, a couple bullet connectors and a terminal end for the negative battery terminal.
Cleaned up the piece of PVC and used a Dremel tool to make a little "bed" for the LED.
I cut a 1/2 o.d. X 1/2 inch piece of heat shrink, lay the LED in it's bed and slid the heat shrink up over the led to hold it in place on the PVC ring.
I carefully heated the shrink, attaching the led firmly to the PVC ring. I snapped it over a 7/8 bar to check fit and finish.
I soldered up a pigtail to attach the black neg. wire with bullet connector to neg. battery terminal. Also soldered a bullet connector on the red wire to plug into the disconnected red w/ White wire at the started Sol. This wire is in the circuit of the coils positive power from the Stop and Ignition Switch. (If the bike won't start but the tale tale light is on, it's not because the coils arn't powdered. If the light flashes intermittently, there is a bad connection in the power to the coils. This can be monitored while riding as well as a no start after stop like I had been having. By jiggling wires and watching the lite, the loose connection can be identified and your not stranded. The circuit is protected by the main fuse.
Place Neg. terminal end under the Neg batt cable. It can be disconnected and the terminal end left in place. ( No pix, sorry) Plug the red wire into the Red w/White at the starter sol.
Run the wires under the tank and up to where you want the lite on the bars. Could have painted the PVC black or silver but I didn't.
Turn on the key and it's one bright lite.
Now, I suppose I could have cut the PVC in a wedge. After dressing it up, I would have a "Paddle shape" instead of a 3/8 ring. That paddle shape would not be hard to shape like a HAND with the light on the wrist, Grimmith, if you needed a small lite someplace for any reason. Just thinking. The PVC can be dressed down to blend with what ever they are clipped to and painted as you wish. Just saying. The LED's come in 3mm, 5mm like these, and many colors. You can even get them that flash! Cheap as beans. Works for me.
EDIT:
Well, who wouda thunk it! I decided to take a morning ride before the farm work ( cause that last till dark).
I got suited up, turned on the key and all was good, 11.6 V, green neutral lite and red light on the Ignition circuit.
I fired up the bike and eat me fer a tater, the red ignition circuit light was out. 13.8 V, 800/900 RPM, cold idle, and no light! What in the wide, wide, world of sports is a going on?
Some dumb a*s hooked the red led wire on the back side of the Safety Relay. It was turning the led off when the engine started!
If I had done like 5Twins said and just disconnected the Safety Relay, I would have seen I was on the wrong side, but noooooo. So I unplugged the Safety Relay connector ( It's Red w/ white is where I want to be), and removed the thing. Am making a pig tail with a spade on one end for the Red w/ white in the connector and a female bullet for the red wire to the LED, then I'll give it another go. I rode anyway! It was great!
Last edited:
Pretty slick! Small profile, unobtrusive, creative use of the PVC. Adapt, improvise and overcome!
I can just unplug the connector at the Neg batt terminal and I don't have the light burning. If the bike goes no start, and it hasn't so far since I disconnected the safety relay, I can plug it back in and it will tell me what I need to know.
Yeah, I got the 618 specifically for the footballs. It’s just my measurements- my chest measures 42 1/2, and I have thick lats for my frame. A 44 is an inch and a half too roomy for my chest, and makes the sleeves and waist too big as well, whereas the 42 is perfect everywhere BUT the chest. I figured it would be better to be a little tight and fit elsewhere but now I am thinking I made the wrong call.
It's a lot of money and it's a forever garment. Get it right.
I wanted to remove the rear wheel, found it near impossible with the “O” ring chain without a coupling link. The chain fouled the chainguard and the adjuster when slipped off the sprocket. Had to cut the riveted link and break the chain. If I was at the side of the road with a flat tyre, I would have spit my dummy out.
I had a spare DIDs chain with a link so I have fitted that, after all it’s not a 200HP engine
I had a spare DIDs chain with a link so I have fitted that, after all it’s not a 200HP engine
Yeah honestly I’m not sure I’m in love with my X-Ring chain. It’s so big and heavy it really seems like overkill. I doubt I’d buy another one.
Tiesco
XS650 Addict
Man that’s weird. I’m 5’9”, 200 lbs. 42.5 chest and 34-36 waist depending on the brand. I def have some belly fat to lose but my chest and arms and lats don’t seem to have a lot of extra fat to lose. As you can see in my pics I don’t by any means look overweight. I don’t know if I could slim down much below 175. Marty, if you don’t mind, what are your stats and what size schott are you wearing? How do your sleeves hit your armpits?
I am 6’4” and 205 lbs. My chest measures 42” and my belly thickest part is 39”. My Schott jacket size is 42 long. The sleeves come right up to my armpits.
I was 25 years old when I got the jacket, so I would guess I was thicker at my chest and arms back then.
I think you should call Schott and explain the problem. They’re a class act. They can custom make you a jacket.
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... and drilled lots of holes.
Looks so good! Hey, those aren't the stock risers right? Where’d you score aluminum risers?
Tiesco
XS650 Addict
I think these bikes look good with blacked out rims and forks along with fork gaiters
Plus 1 on the gaiters! I'm thinking about it.
