The reason why I want to use copper washers is because my engine has eight rubberwashers on it now. I know that the engine has been opened before so there might have been a mix up back then. Engine looks ok and I think the PO changed out somethings and left others. Cam chain guide should be as good as new as per the mileage for last engine job. It was worn all the way through. Regarding the bolts what I have learned is always use some sort of lube when thightening. My question was more what to use. Motoroil i nice for the threads but will wash away in time. Copperpaste will stay in there for much longer but wears more on the threads. And what about the ones inside the engine. The motoroil will wash of the copperpaste inside quite fast.
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I don't use the anti-seize inside the motor. The bolts or screws stay wet with oil and protected in there. I do oil those before assembly. I assemble nothing dry. Even if it's just a light lube of some sort, I always use something. I've been using copper anti-seize on all my external fasteners for over 30 years.
This is a very fascinating/enlightening/important thread, and I'd like to update the flotsam with more jetsam. Just received stainless steel fasteners for the XS covers. Included was a document that gives more thread anti-sieze and torque values. Sorry for the rotations, maximizing legibility.
Enjoy...
Enjoy...
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As long as we are riffing: I got an old beater car for my daughter a few months ago, She tends to crash alot. 
Anyways at 203,000 miles the head gasket was weeping oil pretty badly. I am sure the 99 Hyundai is torque to yield but screw that. I loosened and retorqued all the head studs one at a time from the middle out.....
And like an old XS650 it quit leaking and is dry as a bone now.
So that may help someone else or...... ruin your engine.
Back to XS650 I grab whatever's handy usually copper antiseize for head studs. And a couple of hundred miles after a top job a retorque is probably good practice.
Anyways at 203,000 miles the head gasket was weeping oil pretty badly. I am sure the 99 Hyundai is torque to yield but screw that. I loosened and retorqued all the head studs one at a time from the middle out.....And like an old XS650 it quit leaking and is dry as a bone now.
So that may help someone else or...... ruin your engine.
Back to XS650 I grab whatever's handy usually copper antiseize for head studs. And a couple of hundred miles after a top job a retorque is probably good practice.
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Great info. Thx for sharing.
As an A&P mechanic and later as an A&P instructor. "Clean dry threads, unless otherwise specified" is gospel. So, that's where I got it.
(A&P = Airframe & Powerplant)
(A&P = Airframe & Powerplant)
From another Yamaha service manual
In the bad old days when I worked on cars some manufactures said to lube some not. In both insistences they would also tell you the threads need to be cleaned. Not just the bolt or stud but also the female thread. Any resistance to turning causes a reduction in clamping force. I myself prefer to lube, but that's just me. The key to gaskets sealing is evenness in the clamping force on the gasket and minimal distortion of the clamping surfaces.
Here's the 78 manual. No mention of lubing the fasteners. Don't get me wrong, I'm in favor of lubing the head fasteners... but torque needs to be adjusted accordingly. I talked about it in the top end thread in TECH.
