lovebill1951
XS650 Enthusiast
I did look through here, but I didn't find a post on how to remove the front sprocket. I figured reading a how to might make it easier. Thanks.
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Front sprocket removal.
- Thread starter lovebill1951
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- wheels
lovebill1951
XS650 Enthusiast
Part 2. I'm still disassembling this project. It needs a massive amount of cleaning. The left side case is off. The alternator outside peice ( what is the name of that part? ) is off with two screws. The inside peice that rotates with the crankshaft, how is that removed and what is it's name. Thanks, and I did search but didn't find the answer.
No pics I'm afraid but have always managed to remove the sprocket nut (after removing LH cover and peening back the lock washer) by holding the rear brake on with the bike in gear (with a long bar on the socket). However if I had a really stubborn nut I would borrow an air tool to shock it loose rather than risk damage to the gear clusters. Helps to have a feel for what is 'too tight', which for most of us comes from a few first hand experiences of stressing steel just past the yield point!
Sometimes the nut is only finger tight (finger loose?) when you peen back the lock washer.
Sometimes the nut is only finger tight (finger loose?) when you peen back the lock washer.
TeeCat
One-Mik Wonder
bill, block your rear wheel with a broomstick or something against the frame tubes, and use a breaker bar and an appropriately large socket to go counterclockwise. Keep the flat-sided lock washer ass you'll need that. If the nut is not torqued to spec on assembly, your seal may leak.
On the alternator removal, only do so if you must. Use a puller designed for this, available from MikesXS.com, and save yourself a lot of grief. The nut goes CCW as well. I use a tow strap wrapped around the alternator and fixed to the frame to keep the engine from rotating. I would not recommend using your transmission for this.
TC
On the alternator removal, only do so if you must. Use a puller designed for this, available from MikesXS.com, and save yourself a lot of grief. The nut goes CCW as well. I use a tow strap wrapped around the alternator and fixed to the frame to keep the engine from rotating. I would not recommend using your transmission for this.
TC
The rotating piece is your rotor (the stator is the winding it rotates in). Rotor needs to be removed using a special tool which is available from Mikes XS and other places. I wouldn't try to remove it using anything else - I did try years ago and got nowhere apart from bending a two or three legged puller, I forget which. The rotor is on a taper with a Woodruff key and is usually very tight.
lovebill1951
XS650 Enthusiast
Thanks guys, that's the answers I was looking for.
The rotor most likely doesn't need to be removed, not a high failure item? Unless I replace the whole alternator. I think I have seen a replacement unit on Mike's. Do you think the replacement is a good idea? This is a '78 with 28,000 miles.
The rotor most likely doesn't need to be removed, not a high failure item? Unless I replace the whole alternator. I think I have seen a replacement unit on Mike's. Do you think the replacement is a good idea? This is a '78 with 28,000 miles.
Seems there is more of a chance of rotor failure than alternator windings failure.
To test the rotor you need to ohm across the slip rings. 5. ohms is good, newer rewinds can ohm at 4, 'sallright.
My '83 came with 17,000 miles and a bad rotor.
To test the rotor you need to ohm across the slip rings. 5. ohms is good, newer rewinds can ohm at 4, 'sallright.
My '83 came with 17,000 miles and a bad rotor.
At the cost of replacements, if yours are working, run 'em till they quit.
