This is an email I wrote:
"The engine timing mark needs to be on "T". Remember if it goes past to go around again, not back. Every time you put the mark on "T", get it to be at the same place each time. I usually get it directly over the "T".
Watch the valves. When the engine is at TDC for the side you are adjusting the valves will work like this as you rotate the engine. Exhaust valve will open, so the rocker arm will push the valve down into the head, compressing the valve spring. The piston will be moving up. Then the exhaust will start to close and the intake will begin to open. If you look into the spark plug hole, when the piston is TDC, the exhaust will be basically closed and the intake begins to open as the piston goes back down. Ok? Then when the intake valve is closed the piston is at BDC (bottom dead center), then the piston begins to move up. Both valves will be closed. This is the compression stroke. When the piston goes back to TDC, timing mark on "T", this is when you want to stop the mark on the "T" and check the valves. I know I wrote a lot, but you will understand when you do it. So, exhaust opens/piston going up, intake opens/piston going down, valves closed/piston going up and stop on the "T" for TDC. When the piston is at TDC and ready for valve clearance check, the rockers will not be touching the valves and the feeler gauges will fit between the "tappet" (square head screw in the lock nut in the rocker) and the valve stem.
Try this first to get an understanding of how it works.
We'll start with the valve on the right/intake as you are looking at them. Slide the correct feeler gauge between the tappet and the valve stem. It should just drag. Not loose and you shouldn't have to force it. Then, if it just drags, try the next size up. It should not fit. It's called a "Go-No-go". Correct "Goes" next size up "No-go". If the next size up fits the valve tappet is loose. If the correct doesn't fit, it's too tight. To adjust them you use a 10mm wrench and loosen the lock nut, turning the tappet tight or loose. The lock nut holds the tappet in place. So, if you adjust it so the clearance (lash) is correct, you need to lock down the nut so it doesn't move. When you tighten the nut, don't crank it 'cuz the tappet will turn a little. You want it tight, but not killed. The best way to do it is to loosen the nut, use the closed end of the wrench and leave it on the nut (left hand), and use the square head wrench to adjust the tappet (right hand). Then you can hold the tappet in place with the screw driver while you tighten the nut. If you just turn the nut the tappet will also move. This is a pain in the ass and you will want to throw shit and cuss. It's like a bit too much or not enough, a pain, ugh, but it has to be done. Walk away if needed. Once the the correct gauge fits, but the next size doesn't and the nut is tightened, re-check it. Now, rotate the engine around again. Like the way to begin. Exhaust open, exhaust closes, intake opens, both closed TDC, mark right on "T". now check it again. The "lash" clearance will probably be off. Don't flip out. It happens to me every damn time. Think about it this way. If that happens on one rotation, imagine what will happen to the engine if you don't set them correctly. Adjust it again. Good goes, next size up doesn't, hold the screw and tighten the nut, rotate the engine around and re-check. Do this 'till it is set correctly!!
Each valve has to go thru this cycle. Do not just get it TDC, mark on "T" and set all four valves. Each one has to go thru the rotation setting cycle!!!, each time you adjust each valve, ok? Believe me. Once you do it a couple times you can do it in your sleep.
Re-read this a couple times if needed and watch how the engine works.
When you have adjusted each valve individually using the rotation setting method and each valve is correct with the Go- No-go put the covers back on and you're done."
Hope this helps!
