Muffler pack

[Kevin Werner]

I packed my mufflers with "fiberglass muffler pack" which was a 1/4 inch thick dense sheet. I was not happy, still a bit loud. So I opened the muffler today and found the packing had migrated despite a pretty tight wire wrap. I am thinking that the dense fabric prevents the reverse cone from functioning as designed. I have 2 options. One is a very coarse steel wool/mesh that allows the gasses to expand in the cone, just hampered a bit by the weave. The other is to run unpacked and see (hear) if the mesh alone does an adequate job. Am I missing something?

 

[Wingedwheel]

I’ve had good luck using a steel wool packing. Has pretty good sound dampening compared to none.

 

[Kevin Werner]

Do you rinse the steel wool first? Do you use coarse or finer? Do you just wrap a layer around the perforated tube?

 

[Wingedwheel]

I used a coarse, probably 0 and never rinsed it as it shouldn’t have anything on it coming out of the package I would think. I just wrapped it around the perforated tube and put it inside the pipe. I actually made my own perforated tubes as well.

 

[gggGary]

Walmart and others sell stainless steel scrubbing pads in housewares.

But if you enjoy repacking mufflers.......

 

[Kevin Werner]

I used coarse #4. I unwound a pad, wrapped it twice around and tied off with stainless seizing wire. I reassembled and did a quick shot of flat black on rivets and marks from removing rivets. Not much difference sound wise.

 

[Kevin Werner]

Walmart and others sell stainless steel scrubbing pads in housewares.
View attachment 219949
But if you enjoy repacking mufflers.......

I have no choice about packing mufflers, no others will fit. That scrub pad will be the next iteration.

 

[gggGary]

use the stainless scrub pads and stainless safety wire to prevent rust so you aren't redoing on a frequent basis. a full or partial disk inside the baffle will reduce noise especially the annoying high frequency stuff.
dint mean to sound snotty....

 

[Kevin Werner]

Re ...a disc in the baffle. I had screws on hand to insert in a star pattern but they were 1/2 inch short and the longest the Tru Value had in #6. I will drive in #8s next time. I figured the restriction would force games to travel through the perforations losing some energy on the way. Fortunately the system come off with loosening 1 bolt and nut and 2 clamps.

 

[Kevin Werner]

use the stainless scrub pads and stainless safety wire to prevent rust so you aren't redoing on a frequent basis. a full or partial disk inside the baffle will reduce noise especially the annoying high frequency stuff.
dint mean to sound snotty....

I did the scrub pads today. They open up to ring and I formed 2 sleeves in each muff. I also drove #8 screws, 4ea, through the core in a star pattern. A start up suggest some success. A ride later will tell.

 

[Kevin Werner]

The muffs are quieter now. I reassembled them with sheet metal screws so I don't have to disassemble the exhaust when repacking is needed. Rivets required careful drilling

 

[Team Junk]

In 1981 we turned up at Road America and at Tech Inspection were told we were 5DB too loud. We jumped into the truck and drove to Plymouth and the only thing we could find were Brillo Pads. Safety wired them to the baffle and at the sound check we were 2DB under.

I can tell you there was nothing left of the Brillo Pads at the end of the weekend.

They did make for a nice smell from the exhaust.

I like Gary's coarse scrubbers. They might hold up.

 

[Kevin Werner]

In 1981 we turned up at Road America and at Tech Inspection were told we were 5DB too loud. We jumped into the truck and drove to Plymouth and the only thing we could find were Brillo Pads. Safety wired them to the baffle and at the sound check we were 2DB under.

I can tell you there was nothing left of the Brillo Pads at the end of the weekend.

They did make for a nice smell from the exhaust.

I like Gary's coarse scrubbers. They might hold up.

I can inspect them now easily. I will look at them in another 100 or so miles.

 

[Team Junk]

Those should hold up longer. The pads you used are a much coarser grade .

 

[Grimly]

Stainless pads won't burst into flames and shoot sparks out of the end, either. A factor in hot dry countryside.
I bought some super-duper muffler packing, which certainly works to a large extent, but then I discovered this stuff, which is probably just as good and a fraction of the price per sq ft.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099RKGK1...olid=1UJINOOZ8CMHM&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[Kevin Werner]

I can inspect them now easily. I will look at them in another 100 or so miles.

I will find out if they moved, got packed tightly or any other problem. A job worth doing is worth doing over.

 

[grizld1]

I've used Matrix brand medium fiberglass exhaust packing for years on straight through perforated cores. It isn't cheap, but it's durable and produces a mellow exhaust note that won't irritate your neighbors or draw dirty looks.