Race Tech kit and adjustable fork caps

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If you bought a Race Tech spring kit and are struggling with the stock adjustable fork caps, like I was, here is what you do (per directions from the helpful folks at Race Tech).

Load up the gold valves (if you are using them), the springs, washers and spacers (mine were 70mm long) into a fully extended fork leg. Hold the fork cap to the top washer and measure the distance from the top of the fork to the bottom of the sealing surface of the cap. For me that was 50mm, may be different for you, especially if you are not using the Gold Valves.
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For the recommended 15mm of pre-load, the 70mm spacer needs to be cut down to 70 – 50 + 15 = 35 mm

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Here is cap now resting on top of the top washer on the shorter spacer. When screwed in, it will give 15mm of starting pre-load. No need to fight the spring anymore!

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All of this is clear if one reads instructions from Race Tech, but it is always easier if shown with exact parts.

Per the Race Tech support, it is a common mistake to put on too much comression on the springs with these adjustable caps.

The rest of my settings: 0.9kg/mm springs, 15W fork oil, oil level 125mm from top, gold valves 2.5 turns with blue springs. Works great.
 
My suspension was still a bit harsh over rough pavement so i called Race Tech again. Spoke with Matthew. His guidance was to drill out two more holes (1/16" bit) on the damper plate as should be done on all vintage bikes with small diameter forks. He also suggested to dial back the damper plate pre-load to 1.75 turns. I did both separately. The lower preload was a good change, but the additional two holes (total of four) transformed the feeling of breaks and ripples in the pavement. Highly recommended. I am considering trying the lower rate silver springs on the plate. Mathew thinks those may be too soft, but I still have them, so why not.
 
My suspension was still a bit harsh over rough pavement so i called Race Tech again. Spoke with Matthew. His guidance was to drill out two more holes (1/16" bit) on the damper plate as should be done on all vintage bikes with small diameter forks. He also suggested to dial back the damper plate pre-load to 1.75 turns. I did both separately. The lower preload was a good change, but the additional two holes (total of four) transformed the feeling of breaks and ripples in the pavement. Highly recommended. I am considering trying the lower rate silver springs on the plate. Mathew thinks those may be too soft, but I still have them, so why not.

Matt Wiley saved the Race Tech experience for me. He really knows his stuff!
 
Best tool I've found for installing the top caps on forks is a T-handle. This lets you push down and turn at the same time ......

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I don;t remember how the stock springs fit, but with the 15-20mm pre-load for the race tech springs there is little effort required to get the caps on. The said Matt from Race Tech enlightened me
 
Went through a whole bunch of settings. With these racetech springs and spacers of the right length it is just not a problem to re-install the caps. So easy to try things. Ended up taking a whole bunch of compression damping out: on top of the extra bleeds in the valve plate switched to the lightest (silver) springs. The front end is transformed. The bike floats over stuff that used to feel quite rough. I am at the point that my 12-series progressive shocks feel unrefined. Tested for excessive dive with hard braking: not an issue. Below is the record of my changes with yellow fields showing changes between settings.
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