Roll the speedo over/back/start at zero

weekendrider

weekendrider

Iron Horse cowboy
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Reckon howd ya dodat?
Can you save me the trouble of "blazing this trail"?
Real virgin here, never even swapped a bucket.
Units yes nothing else.


Ohh and I ain't askin bout moral or ethical reasonin.
Don't really give a shit about rules or regulations either.

Thanks
 
Always meant to, never have. Well there was one time long ago the folks were gone a for a week and we kids kind of vacationed too, with the folks car......Decided to cover up the evidence. Speedos with low miles showing bring good money on fleabay.
 
You could always hook up a drill to the speedometer cable and roll it back over that way.

You could do that without needing to take anything apart
 
I was trying to save the "I've got xxx miles on this major mod minus xxx that was on the odometer" situation. Since this bike will be with me to the end the kids can deal with legal ramifactions. I have several to choose from none that say 00000 miles.
And it isn't such a deal that I want to buy a new one, ya know.
With my luck I could burn up several H.F. drills getting back to zero and then wouldn't be paying attention and run past the mark..............
 
The way a speedo is designed you can't spin it backwards to remove miles. Disaasembling the speedo and taking the number wheels apart to reset to zero can mark the wheels and be hard to get to look right, the wheels won't go back together right and show gaps between the wheels.
Using a drill turning the speedo the right way will take a very long time. My drill only spins the speedo up to about 45 mph. The speedo has to hit 100,000 miles to have all zero's showing. A speedo showing say 15,000 miles leaves 85,000 miles. at 45 miles an hour that will take 18888.88 hours, 78 days, 11.2 weeks, 2.6 monthes.
Good luck with that.
Occassionaly NOS speedo's come up on Ebay around $500.
Leo
 
You have to remove the glass face to access the odometer. Two ways, either cut the housing completely around and then glue it back together or shrink tube it back together once the adjustment is made OR use a small slot screwdriver to slowly work the metal bezel away from the housing. I prefer the second method....it's a bit tedious though. Remove the screws holding the unit to the bucket and now you have the unit in hand. There are plastic stops next to each wheel of numbers. Using a small slot screwdriver, hold the stop away from the desired wheel and then use a rubber eraser on the end of a pencil to turn the wheel to the desired number. When finished, work the bezel and glass back over the housing and finish by tapping the metal back down with a small tack hammer, placing the unit face down on a surface that won't mar the bezel while tapping........you'll figure it out.
I've done this to replacement speedometers to show actual bike miles, instead of showing some ridiculous amount that the bike is nowhere near and also for engine rebuild miles, while the bikes life miles are logged for reference. Like you Weekendrider, these bikes ain't goin' nowhere that I should be concerned
about minor legalities...........
I'll add that I've done this on the tach side also to add turn and high beam indicator lights along with the neutral light to be able to remove the light tree cluster from between the buckets SO's to have a place to mount my voltmeter (s).
 
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