FrilandXS
XS650 Enthusiast
Wanted to ask you guys if I provide the current for the rotor directly from the battery and not the regulator would it frye the rotor when the ignition is ON but the engine isn't spinning??
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Rotor Question???
- Thread starter FrilandXS
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical
Hi Friland,
I doubt the rotor would fry itself.
All it sees is a 12 Volt supply no matter whether it's fed directly or via the regulator.
And the rotor is powered up but not spinning every time the key is turned on before the engine starts.
If it were left turned on for a long time,(as in Mr. Stupid left the key turned on overnight), would that fry not only the rotor but other electrical components?
I dunno.
FrilandXS
XS650 Enthusiast
I know that for a short period of time nothing will happen to it but i'm talking about the Mr.Stupid scenario, as for the other components they are save from fuses if the anything happens.
Hi Friland,
tell Mr Stupid to direct feed his non-rotating rotor through a 10 Amp fuse if he's worried but all a fuse does is limit the amount of current that can flow through it.
If a component will burn out if left on while not running for a long time, like the old-fashioned ignition coils used to do, it will do so, fuse-protected or not.
Why would any one want to do that?
Leo
Leo
Just some rough numbers here.
The 5-6 ohm rotor will draw about 2.5 amps, making it a 30 watt heater. It'll probably be warm in 10 minutes, hot in 30 minutes. A 14 amp-hour battery could drive the thing for about 6 hours before depletion.
The 5-6 ohm rotor will draw about 2.5 amps, making it a 30 watt heater. It'll probably be warm in 10 minutes, hot in 30 minutes. A 14 amp-hour battery could drive the thing for about 6 hours before depletion.
FrilandXS
XS650 Enthusiast
By saving the other components I meant that if something would happen to the rotor and create a SHORT CIRCUIT the fuse would save them , that's why there for.
Why would anyone do it? I don't know I haven't done it. It's just a question
Here is what I know
Electromagnetic rotor have that 'special' ground that comes from the regulator, so if change the regulator with one that comes from a bike that has a magnetic rotor, I would need a current that would only flow when the engine is spinning and obviosly on .
So were could I get it???!!!
Those number seem very realistic.
Why would anyone do it? I don't know I haven't done it. It's just a question
Here is what I know
Electromagnetic rotor have that 'special' ground that comes from the regulator, so if change the regulator with one that comes from a bike that has a magnetic rotor, I would need a current that would only flow when the engine is spinning and obviosly on .
So were could I get it???!!!
Those number seem very realistic.
Ok, When you first turn on the key the reg reads the battery voltage on the brown wire. If it's below the regs preset of about 14.2 to 14.5, the reg turns on the current that flows through the rotor. On the early models, 70-79 the reg sends out current on the green wire to the brush, through the rotor, out the other brush to ground on the stator and into the harness ground on a black wire.
On the 80 up models the brown wire supplies voltage to both the reg and one brush on the stator. Now when the reg reads low voltage it grounds the green wire to let current flow through the rotor. No ground at the stator.
I talked about both early and late models because you don't say what year your bike is.
A lot of us put the year, model and any mods done in our signature.
You can find yours in your profile.
Note below my post.
Leo
Leo
On the 80 up models the brown wire supplies voltage to both the reg and one brush on the stator. Now when the reg reads low voltage it grounds the green wire to let current flow through the rotor. No ground at the stator.
I talked about both early and late models because you don't say what year your bike is.
A lot of us put the year, model and any mods done in our signature.
You can find yours in your profile.
Note below my post.
Leo
Leo
By saving the other components I meant that if something would happen to the rotor and create a SHORT CIRCUIT the fuse would save them , that's why there for.
Why would anyone do it? I don't know I haven't done it. It's just a question
Here is what I know
Electromagnetic rotor have that 'special' ground that comes from the regulator, so if change the regulator with one that comes from a bike that has a magnetic rotor, I would need a current that would only flow when the engine is spinning and obviosly on .
So were could I get it???!!!
Those number seem very realistic.
You can't mix components such as the regulator from a Permanent Magnet system with a charging system using an electromagnet rotor. They are not compatible. End of story.
From what I can see using my physic abilities, you have an 80 up bike. As mentioned your rotor gets ground through the regulator. You need a regulator to switch the current flow through the rotor on/off.
If the rotor shorts out, and you have a fuse inline on the brown wire, yes, it may blow the fuse. On the 80 up that would be the 20 amp main fuse.
Unless the rotor shorts to ground very close to the brown wire brush, the windings has enough ohms to prevent a 20 amp fuse from blowing. Most rotor shorts are just in the rotor windings wire to wire. This functionally shortens the amount of wire in the winding, dropping ohms. The less ohms indicates less wire used. Less wire Means less magnetism. This drop in magnetism lessens the alternator output. Often enough to not charge the battery.
Leo
If the rotor shorts out, and you have a fuse inline on the brown wire, yes, it may blow the fuse. On the 80 up that would be the 20 amp main fuse.
Unless the rotor shorts to ground very close to the brown wire brush, the windings has enough ohms to prevent a 20 amp fuse from blowing. Most rotor shorts are just in the rotor windings wire to wire. This functionally shortens the amount of wire in the winding, dropping ohms. The less ohms indicates less wire used. Less wire Means less magnetism. This drop in magnetism lessens the alternator output. Often enough to not charge the battery.
Leo
FrilandXS
XS650 Enthusiast
Actually I did the nylon screw method but great physic abilities.I think the regulator I'm going to use is from an Yamaha XJ650.
The XJ650 uses the same reg/rec of the later XS650's. Well the wires are a bit longer. At least the one off my XJ650 turbo. I assume the other XJ's use one too.
Leo
Leo
