tail-light stays brite

barkcollar

AtomicAsian
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G'ville S.C.
The rear brake switch works fine when at idle. when riding it brighten's up and stays that way.
Could I have to many volts to it when rev'd?13-14.v.
I guess it's the switch, since it's over 30yrs old.:shrug:
 
I know what you mean. I have the same thing going on. Im guessing that as the rpms go up creating more power to the battery it brightens the lights. Don't think there's a fix for it, but I could be drone.
 
Sounds more like the brake light switch needs adjusting. To tight. Sitting still is fine as you ride gravity pulls the brake pedal down as you hit small bumps.
Greasing the pivot shaft will help.
 
Some times the lights will be a bit dimmer at idle, the charging system barely makes enough to run the bike at idle. Once you rev it up a bit, 2000 to 2500 rpm, the charging system starts to make enough to run the bike and charge the battery. When this happens the lights get brighter.
If you hook a volt meter to your bike battery and watch the reading at idle and it will often be only 12 to 12.5 volts. When you slowly rev the bike you will see the voltage rise to 14.5 volts.
if it goes over 14.5 volts by much then you have problems. Too high and the battery boils, bulbs blow and electronic ignition can burn.
I, as well as many others have a volt meter permanently mounted on the bike. This way we can watch the voltage. If the reading starts to read lower than usual we know right away to head home and see whats wrong.
I swapped some parts around on my 75. As I was riding, I noticed that the volt meter was reading closer to 13 volts than 14.5, the usual reading. I went home and started checking things out and found that the rotor that checked out good, 5 ohms at room temperature, would change when hot, 8.5 ohms. The increase in resistance cut back the current through the rotor, this caused the magnetic field to decrease, this weaker magnetic field couldn't get the stator to put out as it should.
With out the volt meter I wouldn't have noticed anything wrong until the battery went dead.
I like my volt meter, I don't like pushing a bike home.
 
Did some internal cleaning, lubed and adjusted the switch. It seemed to help. I need to take it out at nite to be sure.
volt meter sounds like a good idea
 
I am having the same problem. Over the past few weeks I have been blowing bulbs like crazy...and this seems to happen when I am riding longer distances.
Now I put a new bulb in the tail light and it stays bright...is it the brake switch? I even tried to put a lower voltage bulb in. It worked...for about 2 minutes. As soon as I hit the road earlier the brake light stayed on full. I guess it is only a matter of time before the bulb blows again.
 
Yep, thats it. The gauge is a $5 one from Harbor Frieght. I built the mount from some scrap sheet steel I had.
The needle bounces around from road shock and the light bulb keeps blowing. Well worth the time and money to install. To wire it in just hook the positive to the brown wire after the main switch, the negative wire to ground. If you want it lit at night hook the light wires to the dash lights.
 
So now the brake light wont work. We have checked voltage and switches. Could the safety switch have anything to do with this? The safety switch from the stop light checker to the tail light? Can you bypass this?
 
No, the brake switches get power from the brown wire after the switch, then send power to the brake light. The tail light gets power on the blue wire off the key switch.
Thats with stock wiring. A do it yourself can be anything.
The light checker and most off the other lighting stuff can be bypassed. I can't tell you what or how but there are several others who can. Maybe a search can find them.
 
Figured out that it was the voltage - is not putting out the proper charge, so I guess I am getting a new regulator. Hopefully no more blown tail lights, and a working brake light!! My battery has been staying fully charged though...I have not had to use a battery tender for months, hopefully I will not get stranded somewhere!!
 
Good fella, what regulator are you going to use? Have you readup on the Chrysler reg mod? I have one on my bike. $16 and any thing off idle I get 14.5 volts and no matter how high I rev I never goes over 14.5. Well since it's gotten cooler it reads a bit higher. The Chrysler reg is temperture compensating. When it's hot out it, cuts the voltage back a bit and when it's cold out it increases the voltage a bit.
When I first rewired my bike I kept blowing the headlight. Turned out to be a weak ground, causing power surges. Redid all my grounds, ran most right to the battery.
 
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