What do you put Threadlock / Locktite on? (or don't you!?)

Getting ready to reassemble my engine (including the crankcases) and I'm a bit confused because I've had some conflicting advice.

Should I or shouldn't I use threadlock / locktite on any of the bolts and screws? If so which ones do you use them on?

If not should I use anti seize on them? Or only on the ones I've replaced with stainless? Again, which ones?

I'm pretty sure the haynes manual recommends locktite on certain things and says not to use any form of lubricant which goes against other things I've heard.

I've been told for example to use loctite on my oil pump housing bolts, and to get rid of the washers. What are your thoughts? (ps, my original cross headed bolts are shot so I'm hoping to replace them.

Hope someone can help clarify this all. Cheers!

I don't use thread lock. Proper torque with split ring lock washers where applicable is all you need. I use a thin coat of Anti-size on the bolts. This way they will come out if a need them to.
On the head bolts, because of the critical torque I use engine oil. Just as the book recommends. This lubes the threads and you get the proper torque readings.
Most gasket sealers are not recommended, use Three Bond or Yama Bond. On metal to metal joints and on certain places on the head gasket.
On gaskets I use a thin coat of Anti-seize, This seals the gasket and lets thing come apart without hurting the gasket.
Leo
Leo

Where do you add the lock washers that don't already have them?
Which metal to metal joints do you use the yamabond?

Thanks Leo, thats interesting that you don't use bond on the gaskets but use anti seize instead. I've not heard that before. where on the head gasket do you use seal? I've just ordered some three bond actually. I'll get some anti seize too.

When I did my strip down there was silicone sealant in alot of places, particularly lots around the oil feed pipe's (that comes down the outside front of the engine ), and also around the advance and timing covers. cheers!

More info: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35386

I use lock washers the same places the factory did.
On the head gasket use a toothpick to put a thin line around the cam chain tunnel, On the 8 big studs draw a circle around the 4 outside studs. Draw a line across the front of the gasket.
Do both sides.
There are pics of this floating around.
Silly cone should be left right in the store. Use the right sealers. That's Yama Bond or Three Bond. This same sealer can be bought at other dealers, Honda calls it Honda Bond. I'm not sure what Kawasaki or Suzuki call theirs.
Silly cone beads up where it gets squeezed out, this dries into beads and strips. These bits of silly cone break loose and float around looking for a place to plug up an oil passage.
The Three Bond type sealers when squeezed out run down into a thin coat on the cases and dry there. It won't flake off and be a problem.
On most gaskets just the clamping force does most of the sealing. Most sealers glue the gasket to both surfaces, this tears the gasket if you need to remove the part, like sump covers, oil filter covers, valve adjustment covers.
Leo

I have found that its the small bolts that can vibrate loose. So, I use blue lock-tite on 6 mm and smaller bolts. Most other threads I use a small amount of anti-seize and lock washers.

Head studs/bolts, just a little oil on the threads. Spark plugs........ don't use anything on the threads. With spark plugs you want to be able to turn them in with your fingers, so that you can feel that you are not cross threading.

Use a good torque wrench where ever you can, except for the rear axle nut.

Only place I use thread lock is on the nut that holds the advance unit, had one undo once and took the end of the cam with it.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I've bought some 3 bond and also some never seize ready to go.

Couple of questions... Leo thanks for explaining where to put the 3 bond on the head areas. Do you also use the Anti Seize on that gasket? Or is it just plain gasket with the few special areas of bond?

Cheers!

Do the head gasket dry except for those additional rings and lines of sealer, like so .....



If you're using one of the new Athena gasket kits, the base gasket is chemically treated with heat-released sealer, so it goes on dry. If not, you can use sealer on it if you like. All the rest of the paper gaskets I coat with motor oil. Same idea as the anti-seize, it makes them not stick for dis-assembly in the future. I also think the motor oil helps them seal a little better. I brush them with oil and let soak for 10 minutes or so. They absorb some and puff up a bit. I feel this aids in sealing. An exception is the intake manifold gaskets. I install this thick gasket dry with a ring of sealer on the manifold side. That way, the gasket comes off with the manifold any time I remove it. One more exception is the left cover or alternator compartment gasket. I install that dry with sealer on the outer side so it also comes off with the cover any time I remove it.