1971 wiring diagram from scratch

Parts referenced on your schematic:

24-2652 - 70-84 rotor, you'll want to ensure that your old rotor is the same, or be able to accomodate any differences. If the magnet was added to your rotor, you may be able to adapt by adjusting the pickup position.

24-2656 - 80-up alternator housing and stator, OK if your pickup unit will transfer over (don't know if your pickup unit is an actual Yamaha XS650 unit), else need to add screw holes for it or use your old housing. Comes with brushes. Brush holder isn't included with this.

35-0040 - Rotor puller - Yep, get this.

24-8084 - Brush holder, 70-84, out-of-stock. You'll need this, plus the screws.

24-2087 - Combo regulator/rectifier, 80-84. You'll need to configure the brush block for power on the inside brush, outside brush will be grounded by this regulator.
 
- - - Therefore I should be following the diagram below?
I have included part numbers from mikes xs just to make sure everything works with the other piece. Couple questions in there about the wiring harness (stock 80's or chopper?) Also about the pickup coil? And preferred battery 12v etc...
Hope you guys don't mind taking a look and letting me know where I am wrong.
Thanks so much again!

Hi pkaczmar,
yeah, diagram looks to me like it's OK for what you need to do.
24-2652 & 24-2656 work together and will also need 24-2087 (or a suitable bargain basement substitute) to turn the alternator's AC into DC.
And yes you need what the diagram calls a pickup coil (AKA TCI trigger) but you already got one.
It's the black oval thing with red, green & black wires hanging out of it that's attached to your existing stator casting.
Just like it sez in MikesXS catalog, carefully remove it and bolt it to the new one.
As the '71 is kick only it don't need a horkin great 14AH battery, a nice new 12V 5.4A stock replacement battery will be fine.
I'm in 3 minds about the harness.
Buy the ends and a bunch of wire and DIY.
Buy a '71 harness and fudge the reg/rect & iggy wiring.
Buy an '80 or later harness and tape off the accessory wires you won't need.
Perhaps others who've been there will advise?
 
Once you understand how the charging system works, and which components work together, you could cobble together a working system for much le$$ than these offerings. Many of these component parts appear here and on eBay for much less.

Many threads in here on the charging systems and their mods.
 
Fred's recommendation of option #2 may be your only choice. Since the camshaft ends seem to be cut off, you're stuck with a crank triggered ignition, which the PMA offerings don't provide...

The Boyer Bransden Micro Digital system ignition system (electronic advance) is supplied with a brass rod that replaces the oem points and advance rod... that could be the best solution if they are available over there.


 

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The Boyer Bransden Micro Digital system ignition system (electronic advance) is supplied with a brass rod that replaces the oem points and advance rod... that could be the best solution if they are available over there.

I was thinking that for someone with challenged electrical skills an 80+ wiring loom and all the associated relays etc is going to be a bit of a challenge.
Might be better off going with an early loom as none of the components associated with the starter system will be required .:shrug:

oops apologies for double post blush. Very slow reloading the page on xs650.com lately?
 
Alright looks like I have a shopping list. Thanks everyone for your input again!

24-2652 Rotor
24-2656 Alternator
35-0040 Rotor Puller
24-8084 Brush Holder (will see if I can find it elsehwere)
24-2087 Rgulator/Rectifier
???????? Harness think I'll start with a DIY (What wire guage should be used?)
???????? Battery (should be easy to find)
As for the (TCI trigger) if using my existing stator casing I would leave that where it is and mount the brushes and everything else from the new into the old casing as it won't fit on the 71'. I'm a little worried about that process of swapping casings and mounting brushes, configuring the brush block etc.... You guys mentioned there is lots of info on charging systems so we shall see.

Anything missing?
Thanks again for all the help! I should have a good couple months of tinkering with this until I get it running and charging or fed up and paying a mechanic!!

And Peanut thanks for the suggestion but It's too late for that now lol
 
Alright looks like I have a shopping list. Thanks everyone for your input again!

24-2652 Rotor
24-2656 Alternator
35-0040 Rotor Puller
24-8084 Brush Holder (will see if I can find it elsehwere)
24-2087 Rgulator/Rectifier
???????? Harness think I'll start with a DIY (What wire guage should be used?)
???????? Battery (should be easy to find)
As for the (TCI trigger) if using my existing stator casing I would leave that where it is and mount the brushes and everything else from the new into the old casing as it won't fit on the 71'. I'm a little worried about that process of swapping casings and mounting brushes, configuring the brush block etc.... You guys mentioned there is lots of info on charging systems so we shall see. - - -

Hi pkazcmar,
if you get the 24-2656 stator it only needs your Hall effect pickup transferred to it to work the ignition, it comes complete with everything it needs to work as an alternator, including the 24-8084 brush holder.
Before you get medieval swapping parts around double check that the replacement '80+ stator won't fit on your '71 crankcase.
I know for sure that an '80 stator will fit on a '78 crankcase and work, TCI and all, because I did it.
I dunno how familiar you are with XS650s but Yamaha were totally anal about not changing anything unless they had to.
Look at the 4x8mm bolt left front valve cover. Put on to use the valve lift device they only used for the first year e-start bikes but stayed like that until end of production a decade later.
 
Thanks Fredintoon for clearing that up and saving me some $$.
My intention was to see it if fit for sure, better to try than take stuff apart.
If it does fit, I suppose the positioning of the Hall effect pickup must be exactly the same as the previous?
Also one last thing, what gauge of wire would you suggest for the DIY harness? Should I just use 14gauge for everything to be safe?
 
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When I wire a bike I use 14 ga wire from battery positive to a 20 amp main fuse, from this fuse to the main switch, from the switch to a fuse block.
Then from the fuse block I run 16 ga to the headlight and ignition and horn. Most everything else can use 18 ga wire.
On batteries, If using just a kick start a small battery is ok. If you want to use an e-start you need a good sized battery. The first two years of the e-start used a 12 A/H battery, the rest used a 14 A/H. Who ever claims they used a 5.5 A/H battery is confused.
Leo
 
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