1977 XS650 Build

I have a question, what is the best resource for a paperback service/repair manual? I see Clymer manuals are available, are they easy to understand?
 
My 1980 XS850 front cast wheel is heavier than the XS650 front wheel The spokes on the 650 wheel have been shaved a lot more at the hub end and the hub has had a fair bit removed from between the bolts that hold the rotor. I'm sure the combined amount from the 4 sides of each spoke x 7 Spokes + the area around the hub has to account for a fair bit of weight.

There were a lot of the XS650 cast wheels that were not rated as tubeless. The statements about the disadvantage of having spoked wheels and having to repair spoked tubed wheels on the side of the road, (in the rain), is also true for the majority of the Mag wheels that are tube rated.

Pics of the difference between the XS850 and XS650 front wheel
 

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I think most of us agree the factory manual is best. Watch eBay for a copy. I like the '78 version with supplements at least up to the 1980 model. This gives you coverage for the major changes implemented in 1980 (BS34 carbs and electronic ignition). There is a '74-'77 version that may be more to your liking. If you keep shopping around, you can usually get one of these for around $20. The last one I picked up cost me half that. I can't believe nobody bid on it but me, lol.

 
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The cover looks good!! Mags do not get a lot of love around here, but I like them, I wet sand the "spoke" area to remove the machine marks and then polish them. That makes a big difference. A xs500 had a 18'' rear mag and with some adapting it works.
 
You can go right to buffing with coarse black emery compound. That will remove the swirls. I usually don't sand any finer than 400 to 600 wet, then on to the black emery.
 
thanks for the input, I will try and use an electric buffer first to see how it comes out. Next up, the right side cover.
 
Looks great.:thumbsup: Are you using clear coat on it? I recently did my valve tappet covers and tried a high heat clear on one, but did not like the look. Wound up stripping it off. It was sort of yellowish. Let me know if you find a good clear to use to protect shine.
 
I haven't received my service manual that I ordered recently so I have a question about the removal of the right side engine cover. I have all the bolts removed, is there an area where I can get a screwdriver between the case and the cover so I can pry the cover off? I don't want to damage the case or the cover by probing a sharp object between them.
 
There are a couple locating dowels that can make it stick, also the kicker shaft. I tap on the sides with a big rubber mallet, sort of a downward and outward blow. Hold the kicker shaft in with your thumb as you work the cover off or it will pull out. Then it's return spring unhooks and unwinds, loosing it's tension. You would then need to go through a whole special little install procedure to get it back in correctly. You can avoid all this by not letting it come out in the first place.
 
Cleaned up nice! Just a suggestion, get the motor fired up first. If you need to rebuild it will be a lot easier to clean up the motor while its apart. Looking good, looking forward to see this build come together.
 
Received my service manual, now the real work begins. I cleaned and polished the left side engine cover and it turned out very nice. Had to do the work while on the bike. I removed the front wheel and fender. Tried to polish but it appears it has rust under the chrome. I am contemplating media blasting then painting or powder coating. I purchased evapo-rust from Harbor Freight, going to soak rust bolts, washers, and nuts as I go. I will post a picture once I see how it works. I have a question, I am attempting to remove the headlamp housing so I need to remove the aftermarket turn signal housings. I notice that the black wire from the left and right side t/s wiring is wired together with a brown wire then attached to the connection. Is this normal or how the stock turn signals are wired?
 
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Sounds like the p.o had a spare brown wire with the correct ends on it. So long as it goes to a ground, no harm done except it raises questions like this.
Soaking your bits in vinegar is pretty much as effective as buying the more expensive rust solutions, try it you will be surprised.
 
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The original signals had one wire running into them, the power wire. They got their ground from a ground wire with a ring terminal on it placed on the stalk under the mounting nut. Those ground wires all ran to a multi-connector for grounds. The power feed wires for the signals were a dark green and a dark brown. If dirty, they can almost look black. Your aftermarket signals have a power and a ground wire running into them and are grounded internally.
 
Thanks for the info guys, I need to cut the connect ground so I can remove the headlamp bucket for painting and clean the tubes and possibly paint the trees.
Here are pictures on the motor mount after using Evaporust. I will finish cleaning with wire brush and will prime and paint gloss black.
More to come….

Before:
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Cleaned
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Did some more cleaning, foot pegs, shifter arm, brake arm. I was going to paint but since they turned out nice being polished I am going to leave them that way. I am concentrating on the front end, removing the headlamp housing and fork tubes to clean. I am looking to replace the stock tach and speedo, anyone have any suggestions? Once the weather warms up I want to start prepping and painting the side covers, tank, frt and rr fenders. Lots to do, more to come…...
 
The weather is starting to warmup in Pennsylvania so I had time for my build. I did aircraft stripper on the side covers and the chain guard yesterday and scrapped them today. I had to apply another coat but waited 10 minutes and scrapped most of the remaining paint. I did use a drill with a wire wheel and completed the removal. The side covers had the red factory paint along with a coat of black paint. They turned out very nice in the raw stage. The chain guard had drips that appear to have come from the battery. I will prime the pcs. in the middle of the week when temps will be in the high 60's. Then I will start working on the fuel tank. More to come….
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