1983 XS650 Project

Today's issue is a leaky petcock. Not sure if I should replace the petcock or just the rubber pieces inside. If I replace the petcock do I need to replace with a vacuum style thats on there now? Hope everyone is having a good Sunday.
 

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nj1639 said:
Take the screws to Lowes and see if they have replacements. A helpful employee and some nuts to go on the screws you have will let you know in short order if they have what you need.

Going from the roto tiller bars to just the Standard bars requires a bit of creative re-routing.....you've gone quite the extreme. Not sure how those bars work when the unexpected need for a quick response occurs.
Click to expand...

When you say creative re-routing what do you mean? I'm trying to re-route the clutch cable now and don't want do anything wrong.
Do you think the "standard" bars are unsafe?
Thanks for the info.
 
shade said:
When you say creative re-routing what do you mean? I'm trying to re-route the clutch cable now and don't want do anything wrong.
Do you think the "standard" bars are unsafe?
Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

Hi shade,
Your clutch cable needs to find a route from the lever to the actuator that takes up it's excess length, is all.
That, or buy the shorter clutch cable that fits the Standard.
No, it's the rototillers that are unsafe.
Or at least they make the rider sit in an uncomfortable position.
Unless you are 7' tall and your wrists bend at 90º to most people's.
Standard bars give the average rider a more natural stance.
 
shade said:
Today's issue is a leaky petcock. Not sure if I should replace the petcock or just the rubber pieces inside. If I replace the petcock do I need to replace with a vacuum style that's on there now? Hope everyone is having a good Sunday.
Click to expand...

Those petcocks rebuild quite nicely with a repair kit.
Polish the rotating seal's face so it shines like an outhouse door on a frosty morning and put a smear of grease on it where it moves over the 4-hole rubber seal washer.
If the zig-zag washer has lost some of it's height you can CAREFULLY re-arch it with 2 pairs of instrument pliers.
If you are worried that there is no manual shut-off position, file off the small protrusion on the faceplate and cut the lever a bit shorter so it won't hit the tank.
The shortened lever can now be pointed straight up to give a manual OFF position.
Or, buy a custom petcock from MikesXS that combines the late model petcock's bolt spacing with the earlier petcock's manual operation.
 
shade said:
When you say creative re-routing what do you mean? I'm trying to re-route the clutch cable now and don't want do anything wrong.
Do you think the "standard" bars are unsafe?
Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...


I think the Standard bars are the way to go, nice height and a good width for control. I picked up a set of the Euro bars and tried them but went back to the Standards as the Euros have a bit less height and width. Fred is right on about the Special bars......they should all be cut up into wind chimes. Those straight bars you have are probably great for a straight race track but not sure how they would handle in the city or the hills and hollers where the need to respond is NOW!

On the petcocks.
I replace my vacuum operated with aftermarket manuals 'cause manual is what I cut my teeth on. As Fred said, mikes has a manual petcock that will swap out having the same mounting space as the vacuum operated stockers......might be a consideration. If you go manual you'll have to block off the barbs on the intake manifolds OR link the two barbs together wit' a bit o' hose.
 
I've ordered a shorter clutch cable, and a petcock rebuild kit. As always, thanks for the advice.
I also need to order a new brake hose. I was going to order this:
https://www.mikesxs.net/product/29-6507.html

Does it make the front lines into a one piece hose, or do I need to order an upper piece and a lower piece? Is there anything else I need? I am going to order new front brake pads as well.
I am so close to taking this bike for an actual ride...
 
shade said:
- - - I was going to order this:
https://www.mikesxs.net/product/29-6507.html
Does it make the front lines into a one piece hose, or do I need to order an upper piece and a lower piece? Is there anything else I need? I am going to order new front brake pads as well. - - -
Click to expand...

Hi shade,
read the small print, eh?
The MikesXS catalog page for that hose plainly says it's only 20" long so yes, it takes two of them to be a direct replacement for your stock hoses.
Stainless (to be exact, teflon lined stainless steel wire braid reenforced) brake hoses are an upgrade anyway.
What else? If this is to be your first try at brake bleeding, patience.
And a length of plastic hose and a catch bottle.
And read all the bleeding tips on this site.
And don't spill DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid on the paint, it's a pretty good paint stripper.
 
fredintoon said:
Hi shade,
read the small print, eh?
The MikesXS catalog page for that hose plainly says it's only 20" long so yes, it takes two of them to be a direct replacement for your stock hoses.
Stainless (to be exact, teflon lined stainless steel wire braid reenforced) brake hoses are an upgrade anyway.
What else? If this is to be your first try at brake bleeding, patience.
And a length of plastic hose and a catch bottle.
And read all the bleeding tips on this site.
And don't spill DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid on the paint, it's a pretty good paint stripper.
Click to expand...

So what about something like this?
http://www.bikebandit.com/goodridge-universal-brake-line-black-w-black-ends?b=10438
I could get a 30" brake line, and then the proper banjo bolt (which would be what size?)
and then it would be a one piece line instead of two...

I have bled the line before, and got the hang of it after some "practice."
 
shade said:
So what about something like this? - - -
Click to expand...

Hi shade,
by the time you buy the one-piece brake hose, the end fittings and the banjo bolts to hold them on you will have spent as much or more than buying those two hoses from MikesXS.
The MikesXS hoses will bolt right up, no worries.
Buying a single hose from another source means you gotta order the correct length hose and the exact right set of parts from all those different ones in their catalog and run the risk of screwing up the order and then going through the delay and hassle of getting the order corrected.
 
I ordered what I thought would be a shorter clutch cable from MikesXS, but it is just about the same length. While putting on the new cable I did notice the spring attached to the clutch cable is distorted. I don't know how I did that one but I'm wondering if I can replace this at Home Depot or does this need to be ordered?
 

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I'm off to a great start this Monday morning. I repaired the petcock last night with a petcock rebuild kit. It seems to have stopped the leaking, BUT now gas flows freely from each of the three positions on the petcock. Every so often I wonder what the hell I am doing...
 
If the gas is flowing in all three positions the piston plunger on the rubber diaphragm isn't sealing?
 
Another great day on the XS650...
Having some trouble registering the bike because it hasn't been registered in 20 years. They want me to pay 3 years of registration fee's. Got to love NJ.
The bent clutch spring has been ordered for $3.99 (plus $8.00 shipping!)
Very frustrating...

So now I am back to working on the Petcock. I've taken it apart again to thoroughly clean it and possible add a washer beneath the spring to give it a better seal.
Does anyone think the seat on this petcock is to pitted to use?
 

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Hi shade,
thieving bastards, eh? NJ DMV, that is.
It costs Mikes the same to mail you nothin' as it does to mail you somethin'.
Shoulda ordered the stainless brake hoses too so you'd save on shipping.
And ordered their manual petcock that fits your tank.
The petcock casting in the photo looks like it's FUBAR.
 
fredintoon said:
Hi shade,
thieving bastards, eh? NJ DMV, that is.
It costs Mikes the same to mail you nothin' as it does to mail you somethin'.
Shoulda ordered the stainless brake hoses too so you'd save on shipping.
And ordered their manual petcock that fits your tank.
The petcock casting in the photo looks like it's FUBAR.
Click to expand...

Thanks for confirming the Petcock for me. I realized I should have ordered the brake hoses but it was too late. I'm learning, slowly but I'm learning.
I think I want to go to a non vacuum petcock, any thoughts?
One more question. Should the shorter clutch cable that I purchased for the lower handlebars have been significantly shorter than the original clutch cable? It seems to be almost the same size.
Thanks for the help.
 

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