1983 XS650 Project

My petcock was just slowly leaking but when I rebuilt it with a kit fuel started flowing freely from all three positions. I was guessing that the old parts had formed a decent enough seal to let it drip slowly and new parts didn't seal together so it is just flowing.
Then again, I really have no idea what I am talking about.
 
Check the order of the parts to the lever. Mine did the same thing after replacing the rubber piece. I had put the "spring washer" (not sure of exact term for part) out of sequence. Once I got it together correctly it hasn't leaked a drop since.
 
compare the old diaphragm to the new one.
the aluminum part with the o-ring was a bit shorter than the original in the kit I bought (K&L)
It would NOT seal! :banghead:
can I say frustration, :mad:I figured it was not reaching the seat.

I carefully bent the backing washer just a little to make the o-ring reach into the seal
I used a washer just the right size to allow the inside to bend and protect the diaphram.

I have another one to finish so I could grab some pictures if that would help.

These bike are a fun Puzzle!

its been working great for 6 months.

Its been nice to have the working vacuum petcock back.:)
 
blue900 said:
compare the old diaphragm to the new one.

the aluminum part with the o-ring was a bit shorter than the original in the kit I bought (K&L)

It would NOT seal! :banghead:

can I say frustration, :mad:I figured it was not reaching the seat.



I carefully bent the backing washer just a little to make the o-ring reach into the seal

I used a washer just the right size to allow the inside to bend and protect the diaphram.



I have another one to finish so I could grab some pictures if that would help.



These bike are a fun Puzzle!



its been working great for 6 months.



Its been nice to have the working vacuum petcock back.:)
Click to expand...


Some pictures would definitely help, thanks!
 
Hi shade,
so long as it's not stupidly over-long, like a cable meant for ape-hanger bars, too long is better than too short.
A cable that's a few inches too long can be snaked about a bit but if you got a cable that was just perfect for your Vincent pattern bars and then swapped those bars for (say) Standard or Euro bars you'd have to get a longer cable because cables don't stretch worth a damn.
Vacuum petcocks are OK so long as the vacuum system works properly.
Manual petcocks are simpler and less prone to failure but you gotta remember to turn 'em off, just like grandpa on his Norton.
Forget to turn 'em on and there's an automatic reminder, usually at the first stop sign you get to.
 
here is the kit I got from Z1, seems like a great quality kit
Z1-kitand-washer.jpg
The old part was 19.06mm long the new part was 18.43mm so just a tiny amount short .66mm
new-diaphram.jpg
Get a 1/2" washer OD was 1 38". in mm ID was 14.18 OD was 35.30
Carefully and gently pull the Diaphram through the inside of the washer to get it up next to that round aluminum plate
washer-to-protect.jpg
washer-to-protect2.jpg
Support it on the vice be careful of the rubber you don't want to damage it. center it in the middle of the washer and gently tap the piston down a small amount so it can reach the seat.
suport-on-vice.jpg
I tested it out on the tank before I but it on the bike, I took it apart 3 times to figure this out.
 
Hi blue,
kudos on sorting out the replacement diaphragm but a person shouldn't have to re-work a replacement part to make it fit.
BTW, a vice is a nasty habit, the clampy thing on your workbench is a vise.
 
you are right, Replacement parts should just fit properly, but that doesn't always work out for me so I adapt the best i can and learn. I just want to ride.

Some days even spell check can't save me.
I have 3 XS650's so I guess i have a vise and a vice:)
 
I finally gave up this Petcock, I have tried many different solutions but I think it's just done. So I've ordered a new non vaccum petcock and the new brake lines.
What should I use to plug the vacuum line on the carburetor?
Hope everyone is having a good weekend.
 
Get some blind rubber caps or whatever they make them out of, a couple of small hose clamps and cap them off. There are some that use a length of vacuum line or such with a couple of clamps and link the two barbs together.....like to think that it helps equalize the intakes.......
Good choice on the manual petcock, just don't forget to turn it off and on lol.
 
The new petcock arrived and after installing it on the bike I can't get it to start. It was running fairly well before this with the lawn mower tank I use to run the bike without the gas tank on it. When I kick start the bike it feels different, like there is a little resistance, I also noticed a tiny bit of smoke coming out of the air filters. I've removed the air filters and spark plugs and letting it sit for a while.
 
shade said:
The new petcock arrived and after installing it on the bike I can't get it to start. It was running fairly well before this with the lawn mower tank I use to run the bike without the gas tank on it. When I kick start the bike it feels different, like there is a little resistance, I also noticed a tiny bit of smoke coming out of the air filters. I've removed the air filters and spark plugs and letting it sit for a while.
Click to expand...

Hi shade,
so long as the new manual petcock in the bike tank is allowing gas to get to the carbs it shouldn't make any difference.
Check for spark. Perhaps you disconnected a coil wire putting the tank on.
 
fredintoon said:
Hi shade,
so long as the new manual petcock in the bike tank is allowing gas to get to the carbs it shouldn't make any difference.
Check for spark. Perhaps you disconnected a coil wire putting the tank on.
Click to expand...

It looks like you are right, I don't seem to be getting spark now. I have no clue about wiring and electricity, but I checked all the connections I could find and don't see anything odd. The battery seems to be weak and I've been charging it.
Thanks
 

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