racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
Ahhh, grasshopper! That makes sense. Thanks Gary
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Chito
XS650 Enthusiast
Hey guys... I got a set of tapered bearings, put them on... then put the front together before I realized the lower triple tree/stem was bent (see my post "what's next diagnosis or something like that).
Anyway... now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the bearings from the stem without damaging them so I can put them on the new one. Any suggestions?
Anyway... now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the bearings from the stem without damaging them so I can put them on the new one. Any suggestions?
Only one bearing right? the rubber seal can be removed by carefully stretching it over the bearing, that gives you a notch to start working the bearing up. If needed grind or file a tool so it's ramp lifts the bearing without damage to any of the parts.
Chito
XS650 Enthusiast
Thanks gggGary. Once I got that rubber seal out of the way I could see and it came out pretty easy.
bluebikerblan
Geezer
By The Way.....Believe me it is possible to damage the bottom race of a tapered bearing steering column set and then need to replace it.....please don't ask me how I know. It's a PITA story that will have you crying.
Cutting the notches so that a drift can hit a good bit of surface on opposing sides of the race surface is a super idea. I've had to remove a couple now.
MMM is a gem that needs be preserved as a national treasure. Yes, and in your new nation too TRG! Blue
Cutting the notches so that a drift can hit a good bit of surface on opposing sides of the race surface is a super idea. I've had to remove a couple now.
MMM is a gem that needs be preserved as a national treasure. Yes, and in your new nation too TRG! Blue
The bearing kit fits several different bikes. Different bikes use different seals. Use the one that matches your old one. The other seal may fit with another bike.
Leo
Leo
Capt_Zoom
Raider Rider/xs newbie
So how are you guys getting the lower tappered bearing onto the stem? I went to home depot today and they didn't have any pipe with the ID and OD needed to install the damn bearing.
I just went out and grabbed a pipe nipple from my plumbing box to do it. I'll go check but my first guess is 1 1/4" iron pipe.
Do you mean the outer race into the head tube?
I used the old ball race and a large 1/2 inch drive socket. Please make the removal slots before you install it.
I used the old ball race and a large 1/2 inch drive socket. Please make the removal slots before you install it.
for the inner race on the stem a 1 1/4" coupling is a snug fit so a 1 1/4 x 1 1/2" coupling and a 1 1/2" nipple long enough to cover the stem will do it. IIRC I found that clamping the nipple up right in my vice, insert the stem and race into the top of the coupling and tapping the bottom of the stem down into the race allowed the best control for even progress til it seats. It's been a while, I might have just set the jaws of the vice at the proper distance and tapped the stem down on the race. Or even better got an 1 1/4" coupling as a spacer and then used the jaws of the vice to support that. which would give even support and still be inexpensive. I have a hydraulic press now and will probably use that for the next set.
Capt_Zoom
Raider Rider/xs newbie
Got it. Thanks guys.
I used a long punch. With the bearing on the stem I carefully tapped the punch as I worked around the race.
Leo
Leo
Capt_Zoom
Raider Rider/xs newbie
I ended up taking the old lower race and laying that over the lower tappered bearing. That made the surface area larger so I could find a pipe that worked. If you don't do this you end up having very narrow specs for the pipe you need. Specifically:
Larger than 1.18" ID but smaller than 1.40" OD.
Larger than 1.18" ID but smaller than 1.40" OD.
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
I finished stripping my frame today and knocked out the old bearings and took the race off of the steering stem. I have the sealed bearings and will be going this route too.
The groove is a great tip but it seams like it has to be quite high to work, maybe 3/4" or more? I'm thinking about drilling about a 5/16" diameter hole 180 degrees apart where the shelve of the bearing seats instead of putting in the high slots.
The groove is a great tip but it seams like it has to be quite high to work, maybe 3/4" or more? I'm thinking about drilling about a 5/16" diameter hole 180 degrees apart where the shelve of the bearing seats instead of putting in the high slots.
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
Realized I forgot to mention something I had in mind for removal. The two holes would let me push the race off of the steering head bottom seat with a long punch and then I could use an internal bearing puller/slide hammer to get it all the way out.
glenpm I think we are talking about two different races, you are speaking of the one at the bottom of the stem on the triple, we are saying the slots are cut inside the neck of the frame. To remove the race on the triple the rubber seal can be stretched and removed then there is room to work the seal up with a couple of flat blade screw drivers or similar.
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
Hi Gary,
Yes, I incorrectly said it was the race. I should have said the bottom neck sealed bearing removal. It is the bearing that is pressed in with the sealed bearing change. I removed the race off of my steering head bottom yesterday.
Do you think my plan with two drilled holes located so the centerline is on the neck bearing seat, 180 degrees apart, would work? this would allow the bearings to be pushed off the seat so that a puller could finish the job. I just don't like the idea of grinding two long slots in the bottom of the frame neck.
Thanks,
Glenn
Yes, I incorrectly said it was the race. I should have said the bottom neck sealed bearing removal. It is the bearing that is pressed in with the sealed bearing change. I removed the race off of my steering head bottom yesterday.
Do you think my plan with two drilled holes located so the centerline is on the neck bearing seat, 180 degrees apart, would work? this would allow the bearings to be pushed off the seat so that a puller could finish the job. I just don't like the idea of grinding two long slots in the bottom of the frame neck.
Thanks,
Glenn
I can't quite get my head around where the holes would be drilled. the frame has a narrow "shelf" that stops the race, the shelf is what gets slots. It is a pain to cut/file/grind those slots. The shelf is too narrow to accept drilled holes?
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
Maybe this helps?
