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Dismantled the clutch from my "no provenance" motor # 3U6 0014xx, slated for my '75 resto mod (after appropriate electronic changes), was pleased to see hardly any wear on the basket, but there is this small spring clip (maybe #32?) showing that I have never seen before and which does not show up on the parts lists. Any idea what it is?
 

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it is the fixation of the wire that holds the first steel clutch plate.

If I am correct it is used on the 6-disc clutch version.
 
Ok, on the first few years they use a 6 plate clutch pack that used 3.5 mm thick plates with rubber O-rings that helped absorb the shock of the clutch pack engaging.
After a few years they did away with the rubber O-rings and used 7- 3 mm thick plates.
These early clutches had a flat area milled into the hub where the plates seat.
On the later clutches they used a hub with a recess milled into the hub. In the recess they placed a spring plate. On top of this spring plate sat a steel clutch plate. These two plates were held in the hub buy the spring wire clip.
These extra plates helped absorb the shock of the clutch engaging.
They used 6 - 3 mm plates
If you use the engine number you can figure out the year of your no provenance engine.
I have used both set ups on my 75. At initial start up, as in taking off from a stop the later 6 plate is a bit smoother. Once under motion you won't really feel any difference.
In theory the 7 plate clutch may be stronger than a 6 plate but it would take an engine with a bit more oomph than stock to notice.
Leo
 
I like the later dampened 6 plate design and swapped one into my '78. I think it eases the strain on those 6 damper springs on the back of the main hub. They are known to break and this later clutch design may have been an attempt by Yamaha to guard against that. I would use it. Inspect those springs I mentioned on the back of the main hubs you have. Pick one with good springs. That later inner hub will swap right into an older outer one if need be.
 
Thank you gents.
I did not want to tear it down any further until I can see if I can order a time sert or heli coil M14 x 1.50 for the oil gland nut stripped in the case. Auto Zone has it in M14 x 1.25, looks like 1.50 will be a special order. Don't really want to buy the kit for $60.00 which has 5 thread coils in it, but a machine shop will probably charge double that. Also prefer a real fix rather than JB Weld for durability.
 
Oil gland nut plan:
The proper size heli-coil kit is special order here at Napa for $105.00, so that takes it out of the picture, local machine shops are closed for the week, not that I am in a big hurry, and I am guessing it would probably be a $100.00 set up fee to walk in the door, so reading the threads about this, I went to Lowes and got a $1.99 brass plumbing fitting with a 1/2 " pipe tread on the outside and a hole inside that I can drill and tap to M14x1.50. Taps of that size are practically unavailable around here despite 1. living in the Cndn Motown and 2. country has been officially metric since the present prime minister's father was prime minister. But a special order at Fastenall will have it to me next week at $21.00, still spendy, but what can you do. I will tap the inside thread to fit the Yamaha nut, tap the case to accept the 1/2" pipe fitting, trim same to the correct length, thread my home made time-sert equivalent into casing with some lock tight and that should be the cure. I will try to document this as it occurs.

My thread jump: I thought the pictured 19" chrome front wheel was HD, got it on a rusty generic springer fork attached to a given up on chopper project, but did some research and see that HD has 5 bolt rotor mounts and this is 4 bolts. The bearings accept a Yamaha front axle just fine, the hub is not very beefy, but has bosses across it and a rib around the centre. Can any of you identify what it came from?
 

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