Back at it ://

[Noidea]

Nooo I just picked up bp8es welp these are the results igot with them it looks better but I’ll return these and get the 7’s the first picture is the right second picture is the left this is the spark for each side. Still the coil numbers worry me. If have this good colored spark should i still be checking out the coil?

 

[Paul Sutton]

Fuel lines and zip ties??? My experience is that you need to be careful with zip ties. When you tighten them they can pinch the fuel lines ever so slightly just where the tie does not completely contact the tube. This can lead to an annoying minor leak.

 

[Noidea]

Yea I just can’t find clamps at the moment that fit. Even if I had one on there the barb for the choke circuit is still to easy to take out. I’ve tried black silicone to jb weld to try to keep it in what should I use?

 

[Paul Sutton]

Try wrapping some copper or steel wire around 2 full turns and then twist the ends together with a pair of pliers. If you twist it too tight the wire will snap. I like a piece of single stranded mains earth wire. It will snap before it gets too tight.

 

[weekendrider]

Re: fuel barb
If you find something to re-enforce the inside of the tube you can knurl the outside with a punch to make a tighter fit.

 

[Noidea]

@Paul Sutton interesting should thought of that I’ll take the zipties off and do that instead.
@weekendrider i just put a piece of cardboard rom the spark plug box between the barb and the wall made a super tight fit and doesn’t come out.
Bike fires up and idles. It stays consistent it makes a slight rumble on the right side because for some reason the header got bent and doesn’t want to fit onto the hole that holds the muffler and header together.
Only problem I have that I’ve always had to was the bike doesn’t idle when it’s on the stand and the choke is off. It will idle fine when it’s standing up but when it’s on the stand it’s dies but if the choke it on it’ll idle fine either way. It’s currently pouring so can’t test ride it but I will as soon as I can

 

[Noidea]

I believe @TwoManyXS1Bs was correct about the tiny leak from the barb I’ll need to adjust fix that more with the wire idea that wa sbrought to me and maybe put some silicone around the outside of it just in case.

 

[peanut]

if the engine works fine on the stand but then dies when canted over on the sidestand then you may have a sticking float or float needle .

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

The interconnecting hose is quite short. Once you've got the brass nipple affixed solidly in there, you should be able to get away with using a short piece of stiff tubing that's a tight press-on fit. Avoid using silicone around fuel things...

 

[Noidea]

I’ll have to look deeper into the side stand thing would it dying with the choke off mean that it’s in the left side carb? When I clean the carbs I always press the float needles to make sure they have that springy action I’ll be sure to check again.

And interesting article there. Always wondered about the solex logo.The fuel line I have is pretty solid press on fit. I thought it was only air traveling through the choke circuit that’s why I used some silicone is this not true? Or are you suggesting not using silicone cause their carburators and fuel can spill out from wherever and break it down?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Leaning to the side, there's the possibility that a float could drag on the bowl side. May also have an incorrect fuel level. Forum search on "clear tube" for ideas.

Silicone doesn't work well in a fuel environment. It eventually turns gooey, and leaks...

 

[Noidea]

I’ll get on the clear tube method in the morning I’ve been working on this 125cc ssr I have brought it back to life. Back to the xs. I beleive we discussed my whole float bowl issue ina previous post I had where I discovered that one was leaking. Their switched now with factory ones and the level is correct 25mm I’ll try the clear tube test see how that goes beleive the results will show that it’s fine when straight up though. If the are how can I check about float drag against the walls. When carb was apart I wiggled and it didn’t seem possible . Will have to see what’s goin on. Have a feeling when this is sorted bike will be too top

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Something else to check, the angle of the float tab to the valve.


If the tab isn't perpendicular to the valve tip, the valve and/or float may hang up. The valve is the wrong length, and/or wrong valve gasket...

 

[Noidea]

Valve gasket? Is that the washer under the bolt that holds the float needle? Is there also a spec for the height the needle should extend to so I could measure it?

 

[Noidea]

Alright so I did the sight tube test and it’s pretty close to the lip is supposed to be 4 mm belownit correct? These are my results. Now if I want to lower the fuel level when the carbs are upside down which way do I set the floats?
Up for lean and down for rich?? I always get it confused they are currently set to 25mm but my plugs are fairly rich

 

[Noidea]

And I measured the float needles they’re both the same size so that shouldn’t be a problem and have a lot of spring to them

 

[5twins]

Your float levels look pretty good. They're supposed to be right around the bottom of the lip on the carb body, which yours appear to be. The bowls fit up in past the bottom of that lip by maybe a couple MM, so that puts the fuel level just below the tops of the bowls. Since you're dealing with the carbs upside down when measuring the floats, a lower number will translate into a higher fuel level when the carbs are turned right side up. A higher number will give a lower fuel level. So, if you want to lean things out, set the floats at 26mm.

 

[Paul Sutton]

It is easy to get an incorrect ready. Like you, I tie the tube in place. I use some heavy copper wire so the tube can be held in place but still moved up or down easily. I take my reading and then lower the tube about 5mm and wait to see where the new fuel level settles out. I repeat this again to make sure the result is consistent.

Bubbles caught at the bend in the tube will mess the result up. If you quickly move the tube up and down about 10mm the bubbles will generally be flushed back into the carburetor bowl. This will mess up the fuel level so you will then have to lower the tube to see where the fuel level settles out at.

Raising the tab lowers the fuel level. Your results look pretty close ignoring parallex. Get the fuel level correct then if the engine still seems rich you can adjust the fuel mixture screw and then move onto checking the other jets. If you have a short stubby screw driver you can remove the bowl and floats without pulling the carburetors. I replaced my screws with Allen screws so it is easier to remove the bowl insitu. During testing I only put two screws in diagonally opposite just to speed up the bowl removal process. But be warned, if you drop one of the screws when the carburetors are in place it will usually drop through the gap behind the left side cover and get lodged behind the sprocket. So do line the area under the carburetors with a cloth to catch any loose screws.

 

[5twins]

You also have to make sure the bike is level when taking your readings. If it's not, that can throw your readings off big time.

 

[Noidea]

Solid thanks guysyour all invaluable sources of information don’t know what I’d do without you guys. When I’m home agai gonna run it see if it dies on side stand. I wish I could do the method of not taking on and off the carbs but I currently have nuts and bolts holding the float bowls cause how stripped those threads were. As long as that side stand issue doesn’t happen I think I’ll be ok. I’ll try leaning it out with the mix screws if that doesn’t work back to the floats and re adjust everything. If I have any more info or questions for you guys I’ll let you and as usuall thanks 1000%