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I would say that it should not cause a problem, for now. It does expose the coil wire to the elements, which may eventually damage the wire. If the resistance checks are in spec. and you get a strong magnetic field, then keep on using it.
You need to clean the slip rings...................some fine emery paper, until the copper rings are bright and shiney.
You need to clean the slip rings...................some fine emery paper, until the copper rings are bright and shiney.
yellowdog
yellowdog
I cleaned the rings after I took the photo but am still not getting any magnetism if that makes sense . I have tried the slap test and have only got a slight pull on the rotor nut but it is very weak and cannot feel any pull anywhere else.The bushes are a good 1/2 inch long .I will test the slip rings tomorrow ,I assume I need the ignition on when I do this ?
No use an ohm meter, ignition off, well if you still have the stator off it doesn't matter Good is in the 5 to 6 ohm area.
With the way that looks, with charred black varnish I am rather sure the rotor is shot (shorted) I'll guess it will read 1 or 2 ohms or open circuit if it finally got hot enough to melt a solder joint.
With the way that looks, with charred black varnish I am rather sure the rotor is shot (shorted) I'll guess it will read 1 or 2 ohms or open circuit if it finally got hot enough to melt a solder joint.
Looking at it won't tell you much if it's good or bad, electricity don't care how it looks. The only way to be sure is test it.
As gggGary said use a meter. Set to it's lowest ohm scale, touch the leads together, this gives you an ohm reading of just the leads. Remember this reading.
Now touch the probes, one to each slip ring.
Now subtract the leads reading from the test reading on the rings, this gives you the actual reading.
Also put the meter in a larger ohms scale, like 20 k or 20,000 ohms. check from the slip rings to the steel body of the rotor, should get an infinity reading.
Electricity has to flow through the rotor windings, this turns it into a magnet. The ohms reading indicates it has right continuity. The test to the body checks for continuity to ground. You don't want any of this electricity bleeding off by a short to ground.
Leo
As gggGary said use a meter. Set to it's lowest ohm scale, touch the leads together, this gives you an ohm reading of just the leads. Remember this reading.
Now touch the probes, one to each slip ring.
Now subtract the leads reading from the test reading on the rings, this gives you the actual reading.
Also put the meter in a larger ohms scale, like 20 k or 20,000 ohms. check from the slip rings to the steel body of the rotor, should get an infinity reading.
Electricity has to flow through the rotor windings, this turns it into a magnet. The ohms reading indicates it has right continuity. The test to the body checks for continuity to ground. You don't want any of this electricity bleeding off by a short to ground.
Leo
yellowdog
yellowdog
Thanks I have done the checks with a ohm meter and have come to the conclusion that the rotor is dead !
I checked the regulator and rectifier and they appear to be good,new rotors are hard to find and expensive,are there rotors from different models that will work ?
I checked the regulator and rectifier and they appear to be good,new rotors are hard to find and expensive,are there rotors from different models that will work ?
Hi Yellowdog,
expensive, yes but Heiden does have them:-
http://www.xs650.biz/p/36/2684/mo74...1980-84-650-rotors-stators-regulators-brushes.
You can also replace the entire alternator with a PM unit but that makes buying a new rotor look like a bargain.
yellowdog
yellowdog
I have been checking the rotor again tonight and again I am feeling sure it is dead.
With the meter set on 200 ohm and a probe on each slip ring I am getting a reading of 000,
Is this the definitive way of confirming a dead rotor or are there any other tests ?
I have seen the pma kit at Heidens as suggested in the previous post ,is this the same one you guys in the US use ?
It is a lot of money but as a last resort I will have to get one.
In the meantime does anyone have any idea an XS will travel on a fully charged battery that is not charging ? No lights .
With the meter set on 200 ohm and a probe on each slip ring I am getting a reading of 000,
Is this the definitive way of confirming a dead rotor or are there any other tests ?
I have seen the pma kit at Heidens as suggested in the previous post ,is this the same one you guys in the US use ?
It is a lot of money but as a last resort I will have to get one.
In the meantime does anyone have any idea an XS will travel on a fully charged battery that is not charging ? No lights .
Hi yellowdog,
there's nowhere in the UK that's further than 80 miles from the sea.
A fully charged battery will surely get you that far so you can push the recalcitrant thing into the ocean, at least.
My best guess? Mebbe 100 miles.
Heard tell of an XS650 rider carrying a lawn tractor battery in his saddlebag and charging it up each night to get him through times of no alternator.
Yes, your rotor is dead.
Racetech Electric has its F650 rotor on sale now for $90 USD - see the website. I bought one last summer when my OEM rotor died - so far, a good product - I get 14.3 volts anywhere north of 2000 rpm.
yellowdog
yellowdog
I live about a mile from the 'ocean' or the North Sea as we call it ,I suppose if I can get enough speed up I can do an Evel knievel off the end of the pier ! But no that would be too easy I am going to get this thing going properly if it's the last thing I do ,and it might well be..
yellowdog
yellowdog
I live about a mile from the 'ocean' or the North Sea as we call it ,I suppose if I can get enough speed up I can do an Evel knievel off the end of the pier ! But no that would be too easy I am going to get this thing going properly if it's the last thing I do ,and it might well be..
Hi yellowdog,
scroll down the Heiden page that has the PMA kit on it :-
http://www.xs650.biz/p/36/mo74-cg|23=3
until you get to item HT-0777.
It's the rotor that has the trigger magnet in it but it'll also work for your bike and at Euro135 it's almost affordable.
Or there's these guys:-
http://www.electrosport.com/xs650-rotor.html?gclid=CM6n8f6dwL4CFYtAMgodAVYAPw
Looks like the same thing from the USA.
You might find a shop that fixes alternators/starters. They might be able to rewind the rotor you have.
Might not cost much.
Leo
Might not cost much.
Leo
motorbikerx
XS650 Addict
got someone lined up to rewind mine for $60 Aust...not back from hols till 23rd...will nearly have my Victory back by then...I hope!
LeisureMaster
XS650 Member
Where did you get this done on the gold coast mate?
I've done that. Fully-charged car battery (in the top box) of 40Ah saw me through the day.
