Battery dies extremely quick.

[BCoop]

Hey everyone, I have a 1975 XS650. The battery will hold a charge for a short time. A lot longer when the bike is turned off and sitting. When I turn the key to "on" and take a reading on the battery I notice it drains by .10 every two seconds or so. That seems very fast.

When the bike is turned on and running after a full charge it will run fine. I can smoothly let out the clutch without stalling or hopping out of first and when I stop it will find neutral fine. After I ride up the street and come to a stop it will begin the hopping out of first. By the next stop sign a street over it will most likely stall coming out of first or I'll have to take off hard to keep it from hopping and stalling. When I can't launch hard enough it just stalls and then it won't find neutral! So I'm stuck at the intersection playing with the clutch and trying to rock it into neutral. It will go after a short time.

Usually as this point I'm pushing the bike home only to see that the battery has only 9.8 or 10 volts of charge left.

The hoping happens as the clutch is about 3/4's of the way out. Seems to be associated with the battery loosing power so fast but I am loosing my mind trying to think of how to fix it.


This is my first motorcycle period so it kind of a trial by fire situation. Any help would be great as I haven't gotten a chance to ride it more than around my block like this.

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[ANLAF]

First, BCoop, welcome to the forum.

Second, sounds like a failed battery or an earhting/shorting problem, or your charging system is past its best.

So, charge the battery - do not use a car battery charger or you bike battery will die

Get out the multimeter and test when charged, then about 8 hours later. If there is a dip it is not the charging system, it must be the battery or some wiring problem.

Let's take it from there.

Anlaf

 

[jd750ace]

I suspect you have a dead/shorted cell or a contaminated battery, or both. When the battery voltage drops, your spark energy drops. When the spark is advancing, it requires even more energy to fire. When you are attempting to pull away from a stop, it's trying to advance. On this same line, if you have not pulled the advance rod and serviced it up and made sure your advance mechanism springs are working right, you could have compound issues, but a battery that's finished will drain at least that fast if not faster when it's toast. Get a good battery in it and try again. If all is right with the world and you have not checked out the advance mechanism or done the cam chain, valves, and carb sync, they should be next on your list so you don't drive into another problem.

 

[ANLAF]

jd750ace is spot on, get the battery sorted and then move on to the cam, valve and timing sequence.

Anlaf

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Welcome to the forum BCoop!

Go to the 'Tech' section, under 'electrical', and review the third-from-bottom 'Charging system guide'...

 

[XSLeo]

I might get the battery fully charged and take it to a place that sells batteries and get it load tested. This will confirm if the battery is bad or not. If the battery is over three or four years old it's probably bad.
Once you get the battery situation straight, then troubleshoot the charging system, just bad battery can cause charging system problems.
Leo

 

[BCoop]

Thanks for your responses! I have a picture of a connection that looked burnt today. could this be my culprit? I also noticed a good build up of oil under the left side cover today. I haven't removed it yet to see if its the pushrod seal becuase I'm not sure if I need torque wrenches to put it back on right. I am doing all of this with a small amount of tools in my backyard so right now I have to hall ass to cover the bike and get my tools inside everytime it starts to rain lol.

 

[5twins]

I can't tell for sure but that looks to be the main power feed off the battery positive cable and starter relay. There should be a fuse there, in fact the only fuse on the bike, a 20 amp one.

 

[ANLAF]

BCoop, don't forget to select a wiring diagram, and then adapt it to your bike if there any mods. I rewired my bike, and even then I still have to check my connections.

Anlaf

 

[BCoop]

I noticed that when I turn the bike over and disconnect the burnt connection the bike shuts off. I don't know much about wiring or electrical systems so I'm hesitant to start playing around with stuff. I have two 20 fuses that I changed out yesterday with no luck. Does anyone know of an knowledgable person living in orlando fl?

 

[ANLAF]

I know it seems daunting when you first start out on this journey of renovating a bike thirty years plus old - and we all felt like we needed an experienced hand to look over our shoulders.

If there is anyone nearby, well that will be good, otherwise, don't panic - there is help at hand. Come on, let's make a start:

1. get yourself an inexpensive multimeter from the local DIY place (ten of your American dollars or so.

2. get some wire, snippers, and an assortment of connectors of the type you see on the bike.

3. put the multimeter on continuity (instructions explain) and put the prongs at a point either side of the bad connection - maybe some junction further along each way - and if it doesn't bleep the connection is bad.

4. using your snippers, swap the connection for a new assembly you put together from the various parts you just bought.

5. put multimeter on and listen to the bleep.

6. make a drink of tea and smile at your first successful step.

7. get a wiring diagram from the many on the forum, and read, and absorb, and learn.

8. follow, say, the wires from the rotor/stator assembly to the rectifier (see, the names now have a part you recognise) and use the multimeter to check them (they have a reading in ohms - more new stuff).

BCoop, I did exactly this - I started from scratch. The fellers on the sight are so helpful and extremely knowledgeable about these bikes. I grew in confidence, and now I am happily taking engines to pieces and even passing on what I have learnt to others.

I hope this helps and encourages you, my friend.

Anlaf

 

[jd750ace]

I can't tell for sure but that looks to be the main power feed off the battery positive cable and starter relay. There should be a fuse there, in fact the only fuse on the bike, a 20 amp one.

I believe you are correct. On mine, the main feed was piggy backed on the heavy lead for the starter relay, went down to a bullet connector just like that, and went into the wire going back up to the fuse box inside of the silicone/fiberglass fire sleeve. the other end of it exited at the backbone, and the wire and fire sleeve emerged for the main feed to go to the fuse box. When I lit up my power wire, THAT wire is what caught fire. It only roasted down to that bayonet connector. When I put it back together, I did not run it back into the loom. Seems stupid for that unprotected wire to run into the bundle, so I fused it directly off the battery and tied it to the switch from there. No more unchecked power going to the big bundle. Here's my roasted wire in this pile of junk I pulled off.

And what I ended up with, at least a partial pic. I made the hot wire red this time.

The original main went down the back of where this red is running, then went up into the small bundle going to the top of the airbox.

 

[XSLeo]

On removing the left side cover to inspect for oil leaks, just do it. A torque wrench when reassembling is a good thing but just snugging those bolts up will be fine. Just remember they only get about 5-7 ft./lbs. of torque.
Working outside is fine but I might suggest getting a large piece of cardboard. Like a refrigerator box, spread out under the bike will make it easier to find small parts that like to fall out and get lost. Or maybe a plastic tarp.
Leo

 

[BCoop]

Every time I come back to this forum I feel more confident. Thanks for taking the time to help me out. Today I will be getting the battery load tested. Then I will try running a replacement wire directly from the battery. I've attached a video for you guys to see first hand what I'm dealing with. I also hung a wrench off of a long Alan wrench hanging very close to the left side cover. When I turned the key to on there was no magnetic pull. Does this mean my alternator is bad?

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[XSLeo]

Maybe, all it means is the rotor isn't creating a magnetic field. This can be from several things. A bad connection, bad brushes, bad regulator. Are just a few.
I don't know how to link you to it but on here somewhere is a Charging system guide. Up near the top of the page is an XS650 TECH button. this leads you to a list of topics. Under the electrical look for the charging guide. It will take you step by step to trouble shoot your charging system.
Leo

 

[BCoop]

Here is that video. I can upload more if anyone needs a different angle? I am going to the tech section now and looking up the charging system diagnosis.

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[xjwmx]

I am going to the tech section now and looking up the charging system diagnosis.

While using the "charging guide" remember that where he says if something, then some part is bad, as likely as not is is the connector to the part that is bad. I was stumped for a long time on my charging. I took the guide so literally that I never suspected a connector...

 

[TwoJugs]

As most said here, check the battery. If it is a lead acid, more then a year or so old, your local mart brand, in a location that might get below freezing then it might be time to replace it. The XS loves new fresh batteries. After that is sorted learn how to use your new multi meter to test for amps. Many have a seperate settings and will check 10 amps max. If you have a draw with everything off check your electrical system. If you have a small draw with key on, bike not running, look for info that will guide you as to what is considered normal. If you have a large draw then you can open your meter up and replace the 10 amp fuse then go back to your bike and slowly eliminate circuts until you find the culprit. Get a few boxes of fuses. Keep at it. In a year or so you will be ready for most anything these bikes throw at you will the help of some very impressive owners here that enoy helping us out while they satisfy themselves sharing the knowledge they have stored in their head over many years.

Battery first and maybe your done.

 

[ippytattoo]

Quick question for you, when you are trying to check the magnetism is the bike exactly as it is in the video? If so take a look at about 0:25 and youwill notice that there are no brushes in your generator. No brushes means that no power is getting to the rotor to generate a magnetic field also this could cause a short and melt wires.

 

[BCoop]

!!!!!! Ippytatto you've made my day! I'm going to buy a brush asap. Also does it look like I have a loose connection on my stator? I can't find another picture of one that looks like mine.

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