I've charged this battery about 4 times since i've gotten it. its an AGM battery brand new from autozone. I checked the headlight case for an wires out of place but no go? what could the other problem be? thank you guys and gals
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Battery Wont keep a charge!!!!???
- Thread starter zurek4
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical
What could be the problem?...................first guess is charging system on bike not working.
Hi zurek,
my first guess is the same as retiredgentleman's.
But we are just guessing.
Need details.
How long & how many miles on the AGM between chargeups?
Did the battery that used to be there act the same way or what?
Do you have a multi-meter?
my first guess is the same as retiredgentleman's.
But we are just guessing.
Need details.
How long & how many miles on the AGM between chargeups?
Did the battery that used to be there act the same way or what?
Do you have a multi-meter?
Hi zurek,
"brand new" sez you bought and installed it a few days ago.
If it went flat 4 times since then, it's hooped.
I've had it for a month but it usually runs out after two weeks. I found a ground wire out of place in a terminal in the light-case put it back together and the battery lasted 2 weeks. But there was also a short in the flasher relay which I fixed today so I will see how it goes from here on out.
If it still goes flat we need more details. We don't know what bike, what charging system you have. Help us help you, pictures better than 1000 words. look up and read the charging guide in tech.
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
You might have a short some where, happened to me some time ago. but I agree with all above, need more info.
3 possible reasons:
Charging system problem. Battery voltage should be above 14V when revving the engine
Defective battery. New doesn't always mean good. Leave overnight on a GOOD charger, then leave disconnected for a day or two. Then check voltage. Should be 12.6 V or slightly better
A short somewhere (or higher consumption than the alternator can provide)
With ignition off, disconnect the negative terminal. Measure VOLTAGE between negative lead and negative terminal. Any voltage reading above zero indicates a short or a switch that does not quite break when it should.
After these 3 basic steps, you will to eliminate one potential problem area at a time.
Charging system problem. Battery voltage should be above 14V when revving the engine
Defective battery. New doesn't always mean good. Leave overnight on a GOOD charger, then leave disconnected for a day or two. Then check voltage. Should be 12.6 V or slightly better
A short somewhere (or higher consumption than the alternator can provide)
With ignition off, disconnect the negative terminal. Measure VOLTAGE between negative lead and negative terminal. Any voltage reading above zero indicates a short or a switch that does not quite break when it should.
After these 3 basic steps, you will to eliminate one potential problem area at a time.
Maybe the battery was good, but overcharging has done it in?
Stolen from here.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm
"As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. These batteries can be charged to 2.40V/cell (and higher) without problem; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell), and a direct replacement with a sealed unit could spell trouble by exposing the battery to undue overcharge on a long drive. See Charging Lead Acid."
Stolen from here.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm
"As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. These batteries can be charged to 2.40V/cell (and higher) without problem; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell), and a direct replacement with a sealed unit could spell trouble by exposing the battery to undue overcharge on a long drive. See Charging Lead Acid."
You say you keep recharging the battery. What kind of charger are you using? Is it a car type charger or one designed to charge small batteries?
A car charger has too high a charge rate as well as too high a charge voltage. This can cause excessive heat build up in the battery, warping plates.
Most small battery chargers use a smart circuit in them to keep the battery voltage below about 13.8 volts. This is the point the battery out gases, or boils. The charge rate is also low, like 1.5 amps or less.
You can get this type charger for around $20. There are cheaper chargers out there but they don't have the smart circuits. They will if left on too long over charge the battery.
Leo
A car charger has too high a charge rate as well as too high a charge voltage. This can cause excessive heat build up in the battery, warping plates.
Most small battery chargers use a smart circuit in them to keep the battery voltage below about 13.8 volts. This is the point the battery out gases, or boils. The charge rate is also low, like 1.5 amps or less.
You can get this type charger for around $20. There are cheaper chargers out there but they don't have the smart circuits. They will if left on too long over charge the battery.
Leo
I am Carbon
shade tree mechanic
zurek4, charge the battery, then get your voltmeter, expos the battery termanals so you can test voltage, start the bike up, use the volt meter to check the voltage while the bike is running at idle, then at 2000rpm, then at 3000rmp then report back what the numbers are.
Also what bike are we talking about?
What charging system does it have in it?
Also what bike are we talking about?
What charging system does it have in it?
Voltmeter and tach.
Write the voltage down before starting.
Start the bike and write down the voltage at idle@ 1200 rpm.
Rev the engine to 3000 rpm and write that voltage down.
Report back with the info.
Thank Retiredgentleman.
Write the voltage down before starting.
Start the bike and write down the voltage at idle@ 1200 rpm.
Rev the engine to 3000 rpm and write that voltage down.
Report back with the info.
Thank Retiredgentleman.
I am Carbon
shade tree mechanic
charging at 12 volts is not charging enough. It should be charging around 14.5 volts plus or minus .5 volt
So some thing is not working correctly.
Quite often the connectors are dirty or corroded and causing the problems.
I would clean and reconnect them and see if system is working.
It that don't do it stator will need to be checked. as per manual instructions(multimeter will be needed)
I would also check the brushes.
Here is a downloadable manual biker.net
mseriously
Newb
Bottom line is it's been sitting for 12 years...time to "fine tooth comb" the electrical. In my limited experience, I have chased electrical gremlins for months on end, when I should've just started from the beginning and went through the whole harness from end to end and checked and fixed connectors/connections...ground the thing properly and make sure it's getting grounded...then get out the volt meter and start checking things. Do a search, there are great how to's on electrical on this site.
Lead a horse to water but can't make it drink........................
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