Nice!PS, want you to know what I started with and where I am today,
You should add you before and after pics here.
Nice!PS, want you to know what I started with and where I am today,
If that's the case, it points to something overheating. By the time you've got a new fuse in it, it's cooled down enough to work... 'till it overheats again.In addition, once i put a new 20amp fuse in, it will start righ up and usually get me home. Might need two.
If that's the case, it points to something overheating. By the time you've got a new fuse in it, it's cooled down enough to work... 'till it overheats again.
The coil has about 4Ω resistance. Since the points and condenser are downstream of the coil, overall resistance wouldn't change if they shorted out. Besides, the points spend half their life going straight to ground anyway....Are we talking replaced Capacitors with the same fault .
Are we talking inspected Points .
The coil has about 4Ω resistance. Since the points and condenser are downstream of the coil, overall resistance wouldn't change if they shorted out. Besides, the points spend half their life going straight to ground anyway....
I Se what you mean. Makes sense.
But I still think an inspection is relevant since a change has been done.
there. Otherwise the situation is
Points and capacitor don't affect
Coil is the same. ( If the fuse did not burn before --why now with the same Coils )
We don't come further
The inspection can look at the cables around where the work has been done and recheck
wiring. How Capacitor and Points are connected. looking for Bare wires
If the problem is not there and around it is more difficult
I feel that the change has affected if not so
it can be anywhere. And be very difficult to find.
A bare wire fex in the taillight that only shorts at certain vibrations or so with one Fuse.
Can take many man hours to find .
A major Yamaha shop here would not take on the job.
Is the break up at high rev gone ?
Did you find an obvious place where a short circuit was occurring in the ignition switch?