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Bushyboy's build thread
- Thread starter Bushyeyed1
- Start date
Yes, I don't know what's up with these older Mac headpipes. They have sealing lips that I can only call tiny. My headpipes were like that and didn't seal worth a shit. The tiny sealing lip meant they were loose side to side when fitted into the head and easily slipped off the seal rings as you attempted to tighten them down. I did similar to you, cut the ends off old stock headpipes and made some inserts. Sticking them into the ends of the headpipes centered that tiny sealing flange on the seal ring and kept it there .....
I also left the step on the front to help fill the step machined into the port. It wasn't quite enough so I had to add a pipe ring as well .....
Getting the pipes sealed up properly made a major improvement in the way the bike ran. With the leaky pipes, it seemed to struggle and strain to rev up into the higher RPMs. It would do it, it just didn't seem happy about it, lol. After adding the inserts, it would zip right up to redline easily and with no problem.
I also left the step on the front to help fill the step machined into the port. It wasn't quite enough so I had to add a pipe ring as well .....
Getting the pipes sealed up properly made a major improvement in the way the bike ran. With the leaky pipes, it seemed to struggle and strain to rev up into the higher RPMs. It would do it, it just didn't seem happy about it, lol. After adding the inserts, it would zip right up to redline easily and with no problem.
You can tell in the picture of the used gaskets that the flange barely makes contact and is not centered on either side. I did my best to align the pipes but even if I was a machine and perfectly aligned them the still barely cover the inside of the gasket. @5twins mod is ideal, but because I cut off too much pipe initially I designed more of a donut shape like most car mufflers are shaped. This will at least provide some insertion and with a gasket in between should seal nicely. There is still about 1/4” to work with on creating a better flow of the area that will but against the engine.
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You may not be able to stick two gaskets in there, that might hold the flange too far out to get nuts on the studs. I only used one gasket, as my pic shows. I stuck my homemade insert directly into the head with some Yamabond.
I did think that too and my backup plan was one gasket and a copper washer with the ultra copper gasket maker.
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More Shell specs for your files.
From here:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/shell-cam-and-mikes-xs-bb-kit-project.48486/
From here:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/shell-cam-and-mikes-xs-bb-kit-project.48486/
Well I wanted to try the Kedo adjusters, but for some reason the person I bought it from has yet to ship them and hasn’t answered any of my emails. So the Porsche elephant foot adjusters arrived and I guess I am going to go with them. Looks like I’m going to be grinding and dremeling once again. Well gives me something to do while I wait for the correct cam master link to arrive from Norway.
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billy icon
test pilot,gunnie pig, and all around experiment
im just catching up with this thread busheyed, I too was going to use the ketos adjusters, and I emailed them a couple times with no responce, hope there ok over there,
billy icon
test pilot,gunnie pig, and all around experiment
i probly need to read the entire thread, but im curious ...are you using the stock pipe piece as a "tourque cone"?? I know there are some pieces made by someone out there for this purpose, and if I had the specs I could make us all some on the lathe.. and alos the question comes up: do we need anything with a 750, or your 707cc right, do we need a tourque cone? I have stock xs pipes I was going to use to get my build running, then I have a mandreal bender I was going to make some hight pipes with, and make them a larger I.D. ...like 1.5 inch tube? any ideas about this
have you seen these? Ive discused this before in another thread and the concensus is the kedos are the bees knees, but these look intersting to me and at 25.00 doll hairs for 8 thats only 12.50 per engine,
have you seen these? Ive discused this before in another thread and the concensus is the kedos are the bees knees, but these look intersting to me and at 25.00 doll hairs for 8 thats only 12.50 per engine,
You could call it a torque cone, but I simply grinded down the cut off ends of the stock pipe. The old Mac exhaust is lacking a lip so I am just trying to get a better seal. The Mac exhaust I have has a similar inlet diameter as the stock so the torque tube mikesxs sells is too large.
billy icon
test pilot,gunnie pig, and all around experiment
here is a close up showing the flat spot
@billy icon i have seen those but don’t like the banjo section as it is a week spot since you have to modify the overall length of the elephant foot. Already going to be losing some threads. I have heard the Porsche adjusters are the best elephant feet for our rockers. You can see in the close up there is no banjo section on the Porsche adjuster and it is shorter than the CB and empi.
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billy icon
test pilot,gunnie pig, and all around experiment
I have also knowticed that the vw adjusters are a ruff looking black material, and then I have seen these listed as "heavy duty" swivel foot adjusters , quite obviously made of a different material then the black ones, and from the photos the machining looks of higher quality. see how they are silver in color and the photo of yours are a black in color? . just an observation I have made when shoping for some
I may be wrong but I think the porsche and volks wagon are the same adjusters. The ones I got came off an actually Porsche and not aftermarket.
billy icon
test pilot,gunnie pig, and all around experiment
this is just me thinking out loud here... but isn't the end of the porche adjuster even smaller at its smallest I.D. then the empi is where its cut back?
I know I overthink alot, and I know guys have already run the Porsche with success.. so its just a thought
I know I overthink alot, and I know guys have already run the Porsche with success.. so its just a thought
Yes that is true but what I am saying is you are already losing around 4mm of threads to get the head of the adjuster to fit and gap on the valve. I don't know if with those you would lose a thread or two in the rocker or with the nut.
billy icon
test pilot,gunnie pig, and all around experiment
I wonder where that cutback part would end up when installed, ya know what im saying, maybe inside the threads of the rocker, I would feel safe with it in there, but i agree , definatly not hanging out there in the open,
as far as the vw vs porsche, from my understanding is the real Porsche ones wether off a porsche or bought from a dealership are very high quaility , and made well with good smooth machining, and then the VW ones , no mater where you get them are gritty and ruff turning on the balls
as far as the vw vs porsche, from my understanding is the real Porsche ones wether off a porsche or bought from a dealership are very high quaility , and made well with good smooth machining, and then the VW ones , no mater where you get them are gritty and ruff turning on the balls
