Clutch pushrod question

crazyjoe86

crazyjoe86

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So...I started up my bike after installing an electronic ignition, and when I put it in gear...heard a bad noise...looked down...oil everywhere, and the chain broke...after closer inspection I found a couple pieces of the clutch push rod....so what I'm wondering is...does anybody know the exact length of the push rod?...and would it be possible to turn one on my lathe out of 1018 steel or perhaps stainless....I looked at mikes xs and was also wondering if his 1 piece clutch rod is a complete replacement for the old one, other than the ball bearing at each end..anybody have any idea what could have caused this?..and finally what's the best way to fix the chain, maybe just put in another master link?..thanks in advance for the help....

clutchpushrod.jpg
 
from the looks of the sprocket (hooked over teeth) your sprockets YES BOTH and chain need replaced, mikes pushrod is a direct fit and uses the same ball that in your two piece rod you will also need the pushrod bushing and seal after that little mishap
 
- lucky that didnt happen while riding

- a pic showing both types of pushrods...the long replaces the 2 short ones and a ball

longandshortpushrods.jpg
 
sweet..thanks for the reply...so you think the sprockets bad?..do you think thats what caused this to happen...it's an old bike I picked up for a couple hundred bucks...just trying to get it running and riding....figured it would be a good project to take my mind off of work.....I don't know jack about this stuff...just trying to learn....
 
- if the sprockets that bad the chain was probably at least so...pay to go over the whole machine carefully, wheel, swingarm, steeringhead-bearings, air-oil filters, seals, cam chain and guide, cables, brakes, mount rubbers, earth points etc...PO probably wasnt too maintenance oriented
 
Yeah....it's been sitting up to the hubs in muck in a barn since 83...surprising, changed the oil and clean the carbs and it fired up....guess I got a lot of work to do....it's all good...I really appreciate all the help....
 
great....I'm gonna turn down some .325 304stainless and see what happens...thanks a bunch.....you don't by chance think that the diameters .3125 do you,,,,which is a more common size...anyway....this is very helpful...thank you
 
been thinking about turning my own clutch push rod, well making one. So.
Above RG says .313
5/16 is 0.3125
and 8mm is 0.315~
I measured one the other day and got 7.95mm or 0.313~ exactly what RG got
I ordered 285mm of chrome 8mm linear bearing rod, $5.00 shipped from my chin-com buddies. Will report on how it machines, fits, works.
 
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That should work OK but to combat the mismatch in expansion rates between a steel rod and the alloy cases, what we really need is a bi-alloy rod (mostly alloy with steel ends). Take a look at the longer stock rod from the 2 rod set-up, it's made that way. If you'd like to experiment with one from another Yamaha model, the XS360/400/500 pushrod is this bi-metal style but needs some work. The diameter is a bit too big (8.65mm) so it would need to be turned down. It is also about 10mm shorter so a "fix" for that would be needed too. I've thought about this and the answer could be as simple as adding an extra 5/16" (8mm) ball to the pushrod "stack".

w0ovIoJ.jpg
 
Does the bimetallic rod then mean you can leave some free play at the perch and also back off the adjuster screw 1/8"???
 
Funny I rode madness and resto back to back doing fork evaluation yesterday couldn't believe the difference in clutch pull. Guess I'm more "manly" than I thought. Probably different arm lengths in the worm and those Barnett springs, madness takes some EFFORT, resto like butter. But for sure can notice engage point difference cold to hot on resto. Not as much on madness. Think they both have 2 piece rods. (79's) Aren't there some bicycle lever perches with flip in cable adjustment stops? hmm a bolt with a pretty finger grab head and spring loaded detent stops instead of the stud, nut and chrome cap on the worm, click click click to set engagement point? Sounds amazingly like a 2m lathe project. :hump: :smoke: Actually I've thought a honda style 3 ball ramp clutch actuator would be an improvement. Contouring the ramps would allow easy pull early on with fast separation near the end of travel where finger leverage is best.
 
I am game for a new DIY bimetallic push rod too. So today I ordered the 8mm Aluminium 6082T6 for £4 including p+p (I could not get the 7075T6). Also ordered the Loctite 648 as recommended by TM in another thread - It cost £6.20 including p+p. I intend to use steel salvaged from an 8.8 bolt for the two ends and will cut a dimple in the ends to help with bearing alignment. This will be next weekends project and hope all goes well.
 
Note how the steel on the outer end is quite long. You want that so you get steel going through the bushing in the case. I'm not sure how well aluminum would hold up to that.
 
Thanks 5twins. That link TM gave above has some really useful info. That is where I read the part about making a dimple at each end. The length of the insert will probably be similar to what dps650rider did, but I will measure everything and note where I have wear marks on my current 2 piece.
 

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