Countershaft Seal Replacement

[YL82]

A loose retaining nut allows oil to get past the end of the sleeve where if rests against the inner race of a bearing inside the motor.

I then applied some Yamabond to the back where it meets the sleeve and to the front under the lock washer, also a little under the nut.

You really need to force that sleeve in hard to seal it against that bearing inner race and to seal the sprocket to it.

So, beside polishing the sides of the sleeve that work against the seal, you'll want to make sure both ends are clean and free of any nicks or corrosion.

Also the front and back areas of the sprocket that contact the sleeve and nut/washer.

A few follow-up questions:

I need a little clarification as to where you apply Yamabond/ThreeBond when re-installing front sprocket, etc. My seal is already installed.

Here is what I understand:

1) Apply a little behind large nut.
2) Apply to backside of lock washer.
3) Do NOT apply to seal lip (ID).

In a thread with same name, you said to apply sealant to back where it meets sleeve/collar. Were you referring to the back of the sprocket where it contacts the sleeve?

Answer provided by 5twins

"Yes, the back of the sprocket where it meets the sleeve. And make the sprocket nut really, really tight, like 90 ft/lbs. That's the only way to stop oil from leaking out between the sleeve and shaft.

You probably read in that recent oil leak thread that gggGary never replaced a countershaft seal, just tightened the nut. This is what he's sealing - sprocket to sleeve and the other end of that sleeve to the bearing inner race it contacts inside the motor. You're trying to seal metal to metal here in two places (both ends of the sleeve) so the nut needs to be very tight".

 

[xjwmx]

^After you put the collar in, if need be pull it out a little and push it back again so the rubber lip sits right - you'll see what I mean.

As for putting sealer between the seal and the collar, a little head scratching about what must turn and what must be stationary will reveal that answer to you....

 

[YL82]

Gotcha!

 

[wherearewe]

Dunno if it matters now but check out the Noga range of deburring tools. Made in Israel i think. Good quality and interchangeable blades for tackling different jobs and areas.

 

[YL82]

What I ended up buying for a deburring tool is a Shiviv (by Vargus) with the Mango II Handle for Extra Close Work that came with 10 B10S (Cobalt) blades. The Long Reach handle would have come in handy.

It is made in Israel.

Shalom.