Electrical problems...

BenThomas

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Having some trouble with a new 79 xs650 that i just bought a couple months ago, done a little work on it replacing the swingarm bushings, cleaning out the carbs, and removing rust from the gas tank. but the Electrical is all screwy. The guy i bought it from definitely has done some work to it and seems cobbed together. and as i'm having trouble identifying my bike to certain wiring diagrams i am at a point where i am completely lost. my vin number is 2f0 021540, it definitely has a short somewhere and seems like its getting an inconsistent spark, kickstart works only because battery won't charge while the bike is running. tried the started button once and made a terrible sound, like it wasn't turning over. :wtf: HELP!
 
Welcome to the Party. You like it here.
With that number it is either a 79 XS650F or a 79 XS650SF. There should be no difference in the wiring for those two models.
Your po may have been "fixing" something but all the component parts still have the right wires on them. The color of those wires match the diagram colors. Now the colors of any wires your PO used may not match.
Use any 79 wiring diagram and trace the wires by color from one component to the next.
Intermittent spark can be caused by several things. The 79 has points. The power feed to the coil can have a bad connection causing poor spark.
Fully charge your battery. Now turn the key and engine stop switch to run. Now with a meter check the battery voltage. It should be somewhere around 12.5 volts. Now check the voltage on the red/white wire at the coils. The voltage should be no more than .2 or .3 volts below battery voltage. If it's good, fine. If not you have a weak, dirty or just plain bad connection some where. The usual suspect at this point is the key switch or the engine stop switch.
These switchs can be taken apart and cleaned.
Before you do that you can check the switches to see which one it is. In the headlight bucket find the three wires that come down from the key switch. A red wire, a brown wire and a blue wire. Using your meter probe into the plug and check voltage from the harness side. The red wire is power in, it should read the same as battery voltage.
Now with the switch ON. Probe the brown and the blue wire. They both should read battery voltage. If not the switch is dirty. Remove the switch, take it apart and clean the contacts. Bright and shiny is good.
If the voltage is low on the red wire it could be the fuses. The stock round glass fuses and the fuse box cause many troubles. The clips that hold the fuses get weak and often break off. Best to replace with four inline fuse holders. Use the new blade style fuses. Round glass fuse are crap, always have been, always will be.
To test the engine stop switch take the right side switch housing off the bars. Your engine stop switch has two wires, both red/white or maybe a red/white and brown wire. Either way one is power in and the other power out. Test voltage with the switch off, one wire should have battery voltage one not. If the voltage is low on the power in wire there is a dirty wire connection somewhere between the key switch and engine stop switch.
If good power in flip the switch to run. Now test the other wire. you should get good voltage on both sides of the switch. If not, dirty switch. It can be taken apart and cleaned, Bright and shiny is good here two.
Once you get good voltage to the coils it should fix your intermittent spark. It could be in the wires from the coil to the points and condensers. Are the points clean? gapped right? timied right? Your repair manual explains how to.
On the starter the starter it self is seldom the problem. The gears connecting the starter to the engine are. These gears work like a bendix on a car starter. When you push the start button the starter spins and turns gears under a cover on the left side of the engine. These gears turn a shaft going over to the right where it turns more gears. These gears are like the bendix. As they turn a wish bone shaped spring holds one from turning, forcing it to slide on the other gear to engage the crank.
If this wishbone spring is weak it won't hold the gear. the gear just spins and grinds on the crank. An easy fix. Just remove the right side engine coevr, drain the oil first, Some have had luck justy reaching in with a pair of pliers to squeeze the spring tighter. Most need to remove the clutch and gears then tighten the spring. I'll post a pic.
I and others will reccomend starting at one end of the bike and work to the other taking apart all the connections, cleaning and tightening all the connections in the wiring. This includes the switches. It can take a long time but it will fix many of the electrical problems before they become problems.
On the charging it can be as simple as a weak connection or bad brushes to needing a complete alternator.
Up near the top of this page you will find an XS650 TECH button. This leads you to a list of threads. Scroll down the list, read any that seem to cover any problems you have. There is a good thread about charging system testing.
Hope this helps and gets you going in the right direction.
Leo
 

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Thank You Very Much For The Response Very Helpful. And So This Is What Happened... Today I Wasn't Getting Any Power Anywhere To The Bike. Found Out It Was A Fuse Coming Right Off The Battery That Was Blown. Replaced That, And A Bad Ground Connection, And All The Lights worked, However I Wasn't Getting Any Type Of Spark At All, tested The Ignition And The Brown Wire Has No Current Which If I Can Read Correctly Should Go To The Fuse Box... Call Me An Idiot But I'm Having A Hell Of A TiMe Finding The Fuse Box...Like Its Not There.... Also Should Mention The Previous Owner Put In A Timing Advance System In. Should Have Taken Pictures.
 
Also Should Be Mentioned, When Turning The Key On, The Back Brake Light Lights Up But Nothing Else Does Until Its Cranked Over A Couple Times With The Kick Start
 
To check for power to the ignition you check on the red/white at the coils.
Leo
 
Thanks Leo! after i went through and followed your instructions step by step i got it under control... went through and checked all the connections, wasn't getting good power to the red/white wire by the coils, so i checked the ignition switch, cleaned it, got good readings, then i checked the kill switch and the connections were absolute crap. so after cleaning that and getting a better connection i got power back, and also i actually found out i don't think it was a weak spark, it ended up being float bowl heights wayyyy out of whack.:doh: i think i was just getting way ahead of myself and fustrated when more things started to go wrong while i was trying to fix one thing. Thank you for your patience, as you can tell i am very new to dealing with bikes and this is my first project.
 
after adjusting the floats the bike fired right out without problem, still need to take it for a test ride today as it was really late when i got the bike all back together. but fired up no problem and seemed to have good throttle response.
 
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