Engine heating up and shutting down

I think I am up for it.
jpdevol said:
Hmmm........it'll take some doing -and perhaps some replacement connectors - but the signal circuit (flasher, etc) and neutral circuit should be powered off the brown wire. IDK what effect the current re-wiring is having on the overall output, but perhaps including the signal circuit in the headlight circuit creates too much constant draw. You need to do some poking around to verify, but I imagine that the place to start is at the flasher (under the tank) to see what is supplying power there. :umm: There is a good diagram for the proper wiring on an xs650SH here in the tech section - it'll be maybe a weekend project to re-wire.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/some-wiring-diagrams.61/
Click to expand...
I think I am up for it. Also the electric starter is not working. I may fix thatas well. I'll need your help for sure. I'll start an another thread closing this one.
 
So if i get it right you are still not charging 13.6 is to low
Perhaps remove all fuses except ignition and Main and then measure across battery
 
Jan_P said:
So if i get it right you are still not charging 13.6 is to low
Perhaps remove all fuses except ignition and Main and then measure across battery
Click to expand...
I did that , just keeping the Main and Ignition alone is still giving me 13.6 . Putting back the neutral fuse creates no problem. Is there a way to check the regulator , cause bypassing the regulator I got 15 - 16 ?
 
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This is gregg's list but a little detailed might help someone in the future

1696177029538.png
 
suntosh said:
I did that , just keeping the Main and Ignition alone is still giving me 13.6 . Putting back the neutral fuse creates no problem. Is there a way to check the regulator , cause bypassing the regulator I got 15 - 16 ?
Click to expand...

Ok Ok this is progress ... You can get 15 - 16 V don't use it for prolonged periods .
Then the alternator is producing Stator and Rotor OK as first assumption.
But if I understand it right plugging in the regulator gives 13.5 aka battery voltage --> No Charging ---is that right so far

If this was me I would compare the wire colors on the regulator sitting on the bike with the one sitting on the table outside.
the bike --- Someone has ordered it .And even though you Mechanic does not appear to be factory certified so to speak.
Maybe he was able to order the right combo

However thee are 2 types but the other types ( Older system ) usually have two separate connectors

Feel free to post pictures on the wires on the bike going to rec rec combo the connector you serviced -- and the wires on the one at the table
We will se if we can figure it out . I am thinking maybe hooking the one on the table up se what happens
Again be careful -- ask here first it can fry directly if hooked up wrong
 
Jan_P said:
Ok Ok this is progress ... You can get 15 - 16 V don't use it for prolonged periods .
Then the alternator is producing Stator and Rotor OK as first assumption.
But if I understand it right plugging in the regulator gives 13.5 aka battery voltage --> No Charging ---is that right so far
Click to expand...
Plugging in back and revving gives 13.5. At idle battery is stable between what ever battery charge is. There is no drain or loss on the battery. I do have the original reg/rec combo so I will consult before I do anything.

Jan_P said:
If this was me I would compare the wire colors on the regulator sitting on the bike with the one sitting on the table outside.
the bike --- Someone has ordered it .And even though you Mechanic does not appear to be factory certified so to speak.
Maybe he was able to order the right combo

However thee are 2 types but the other types ( Older system ) usually have two separate connectors

Feel free to post pictures on the wires on the bike going to rec rec combo the connector you serviced -- and the wires on the one at the table
We will se if we can figure it out . I am thinking maybe hooking the one on the table up se what happens
Again be careful -- ask here first it can fry directly if hooked up wrong
Click to expand...
Wiring is next . I will be starting a separate thread on that. So please free contribute and chime in.
 
suntosh said:
Plugging in back and revving gives 13.5. At idle battery is stable between what ever battery charge is. There is no drain or loss on the battery. I do have the original reg/rec combo so I will consult before I do anything.


Wiring is next . I will be starting a separate thread on that. So please free contribute and chime in.
Click to expand...
Realize this is an unusual problem. You have low charging voltage - the regulator bypass test worked - so you may still have a faulty regulator. The other problem is you seem to have excess draw: "batttery drains quickly with key on". I'm not sure the odd re-wire is the issue, but it creates an unknown as does previous work by your "mechanic". I'm still puzzled as to whether you have weak charging caused by the regulator or caused by excess draw:umm: The typical situation - given that scenario - is a rotor with low resistance (~ 1 Ohm) that causes both high draw and low output( but your rotor indicates good) You could try another regulator and see the result. The odd re-wire puzzles me: I just don't know why one would do it that way and if that method is causing an issue
 
jpdevol said:
Realize this is an unusual problem. You have low charging voltage - the regulator bypass test worked - so you may still have a faulty regulator. The other problem is you seem to have excess draw: "batttery drains quickly with key on". I'm not sure the odd re-wire is the issue, but it creates an unknown as does previous work by your "mechanic". I'm still puzzled as to whether you have weak charging caused by the regulator or caused by excess draw:umm: The typical situation - given that scenario - is a rotor with low resistance (~ 1 Ohm) that causes both high draw and low output( but your rotor indicates good) You could try another regulator and see the result. The odd re-wire puzzles me: I just don't know why one would do it that way and if that method is causing an issue
Click to expand...

Yes Sir
I am also thinking multiple issues .But If we can get the charging up ..there may or not be a short somewhere
But it does not seem to be large enough to blow any fuse.
The reported charging without the regulator look reasonable strong.

cause bypassing the regulator I got 15 - 16 ?

Perhaps have to look at the Schematic later
 
jpdevol said:
Realize this is an unusual problem. You have low charging voltage - the regulator bypass test worked - so you may still have a faulty regulator. The other problem is you seem to have excess draw: "batttery drains quickly with key on". I'm not sure the odd re-wire is the issue, but it creates an unknown as does previous work by your "mechanic". I'm still puzzled as to whether you have weak charging caused by the regulator or caused by excess draw:umm: The typical situation - given that scenario - is a rotor with low resistance (~ 1 Ohm) that causes both high draw and low output( but your rotor indicates good) You could try another regulator and see the result. The odd re-wire puzzles me: I just don't know why one would do it that way and if that method is causing an issue
Click to expand...
I agree with your analysis. The excess draw with the key on is now marginal what was before rapid. The rewire was absolutely causing the issue and I don'y know yet how inter-twined the wiring is. That's the next adventure.

I went for 10 mile lovely ride today even cranked 60mph with no stoppages - what would have seemed impossible with the headlight/turn light signal fuse on.
 
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Just a warning --the motorcycle will run ca 50 km ca 30 miles without charging on a full battery then it stops
 
Jan_P said:
Just a warning --the motorcycle will run ca 50 km ca 30 miles without charging on a full battery then it stops
Click to expand...
It'll go a hell of a lot further than that!
I did 285 miles with no charging system at all, on a full battery. The bike still started up when i got home too!
It killed the battery, however an $80 battery seemed preferable to a $600 tow 😂
 
Jan_P said:
Just a warning --the motorcycle will run ca 50 km ca 30 miles without charging on a full battery then it stops
Click to expand...
The running charge on the battery is consistent at 13.0 so I am not certain that the charging system isn't working or I'll run outta charge. I just think the wiring is crappy which is affecting the efficacy of the charging system.
 
suntosh said:
The running charge on the battery is consistent at 13.0 so I am not certain that the charging system isn't working or I'll run outta charge. I just think the wiring is crappy which is affecting the efficacy of the charging system.
Click to expand...
No sorry to protest but 13.0 is a no charging situation A new battery holds about that .. Or a very weak charging situation

https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/fre...ies-faq/12-volt-battery-reading-13-volts.html

Dont take my word for it keep the taxi money + tow truck cash in the wallet it will show if I am right
Would like to see 14 -- 14.5 V across the battery ..
 
I can see why the mechanic replaced the rectifier as your problem is in most cases the rectifier getting hot and failing. Have you looked at the brushes in the stator, easy to do, just remove the cover and unscrew them? Do you have a workshop manual for the bike, if not get one either hard copy or disc.
 
batemat16 said:
I can see why the mechanic replaced the rectifier as your problem is in most cases the rectifier getting hot and failing. Have you looked at the brushes in the stator, easy to do, just remove the cover and unscrew them? Do you have a workshop manual for the bike, if not get one either hard copy or disc.
Click to expand...
I have not had the dying issue any more since I removed the fuse. And based on the bunch of tests we did , the stator and the rotor seems to be working fine , I got decent readings from testing them. I am majorlly relying on experts here like yourself and will occasionally look at the manual. I have XS650 H - Special II
 
Yes you have reported 15 V charging bypassing the regulator .

cause bypassing the regulator I got 15 - 16 ?

Not looked at the schematic or thought about it but a clear description of how it was set up getting those 15 V and the correct schematic valid conclusions is possible

If plugging in and out the Reg Rec combo gives 13 or 15 there us something to work on
 

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