First XS650 Build, What to Look For

Sometimes we get lucky and an American size can be substituted for the metric one. These 10mm studs happen to be one of those times. A 3/8" washer fits .....



Thicker is better as the originals were pretty thick. These washers seal those outer stud holes because they drain oil from the top back to the bottom of the engine. The 4 inner studs don't drain oil, hence their plain steel washers.

I think your sealer should be fine as long as you've snugged up the bolts and nuts you do have so there is some compression pressure on everything. Be aware that you are going to need to do several head re-torques in the first 1000 miles or so. All the new gaskets are going to compress some and some of the head bolts will become looser because of that. If possible, initially, assemble and torque the top end, let it sit over night, then re-torque before even installing the motor. Then, after the first running and heat cycle, torque again. Then, checks after a couple hundred miles, 5 or 600, and around 1000.

I should also mention that when applying gasket sealer on the top cover, you only need to do one side, both is overkill and may be a bit much.
 
Hi SlowMaintenance,
what also works is the 10mm size copper sealing washers for brake banjo bolts.
If you happen to have used ones handy it'll save you a few pennies and a trip to the hardware store.
 
That screenshot is from McMaster-Carr, that huge industrial supply site. They have so much stuff, it's amazing. We get lots of 650 related things from them. Ordering just one pack of washers wouldn't be that good of a deal with shipping but if you could put together a $25 or $30 order, it would be good. Their shipping isn't that expensive and they ship fast. I get lots of stainless fasteners and o-rings from them.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#95395a240/=11voonu
 
I'll see if there's anything else I could snag from them. Might be able to get some threaded rod and swivel joints for the foot clutch setup. Two birds.

Any ideas on why that one exhaust valve has no free play?
 
Adjuster too tight maybe? You have to have all the adjuster screws backed waaay off during assembly so none of the rocker arms push on the valves or cam lobes. Once assembled and torqued down, then you set all the valve clearances.
 
Hi SlowMaintenance,
nah, there's four, two on each banjo.
Or come to that, a pack of new ones at your local motorcycle shop.
Or like 5twins sez, lotsa neat stuff at McMaster-Carr.
Including the bonded seals (AKA Dowty washers) that are the best possible replacements for the XS650 head nut washers.
These things:-
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sealing-washers/=11vpjkh
 
Called my local shop and they said they've got those 10mm banjo bolt washers in stock. Going to pick them up tonight on my way home, saves me a weeks worth of waiting time and lets me get this head bolted back up for good.

On a similar note, I was worried about the gasket sealer having not been torqued down, and the fact that I wasn't supposed to apply it to both sides. As a result, I took the head back off, scraped the sealant off both sides, painted on a fresh coat to one side only and replaced the head, torquing down the four center bolts and four smaller outer bolts (but only slightly, just enough to keep the head down). I feel better now.

More pics to come after I get the washers tonight and finish the top end reassembly. From there it's onto the PMA, and then the ignition. In that order.
 
Few updates...

I had two of the banjo bolts from the brake line which I used on the right side of the engine
VcK6Xa6.jpg


My local shop had these washers which they use for banjo bolts on all the yamaha bikes, the size and proportions are the same, but they are aluminum crush type. If it leaks, it's easy enough to remove and fix so I'll take my chances
53GJlot.jpg


I began torquing all of the head bolts down in proper order. However, disaster struck when I hit #11 above the cam chain tensioner. I was only torquing to 20 ft/lbs for the first go-round and it still sheered the bolt right off. The top half of the bolt came out, but now there is a threaded stud down in that hole. I'm guessing a left hand drill bit is my only hope at this point, which I don't have so that's another tool to buy. Feeling a little disheartened :banghead:
chq0Jpa.jpg



Decided to move on and install the PMA in the mean time. Got most of the way through before I realized...I don't have the alternator nut and washer anymore. I remembered reading that the rotor puller tool doesn't work with the PMA, so I'm assuming I either threw it away thinking the PMA came with it's own, or just misplaced it in general. I see they're going for about $25 on ebay, which sucks to have to pay for one nut. Any chance I can get this at the local hardware store instead???
CoGsOjF.jpg


Posted via Mobile
 
standard torque on a LUBED 6mm bolt is about 70 INCH pounds!!! IE 5-6 FOOT pounds, remove the tensioner, see if the stud will thread down into the opening.

From Yamaha..

View attachment 62372
 
Shit, well that explains that. I guess it's better that this happened here, as there are four more "6 bolts" on top of the head which I hadn't ruined yet.

I'll open it tonight and see if it will thread out the bottom.

Any word on that rotor nut and washer? Could a regular one from the hardware store work?
 
Got it.

Ordered the one from mikes, along with a laundry list of other parts that I've been procrastinating on.

1 x OEM type Oil Filter Strainer (Sump) (15-6500)
1 x Oil Filter Screen (in RH engine side cvr) (15-6501)
1 x 12mm. Nut & Washer - Alternator rotor (24-2647)
1 x Rear Brake Shoes (Set/2) All XS650's (29-3211)
1 x Spring Puller (35-0113)
1 x 27mm. Socket - 1/2' Drive 6 pt. Deep (35-1078)
1 x 17mm. Hex (Allen) Bit 74,77 Fork Caps (35-1081)
1 x 20 pc. Tappet Feeler Gauge Set (35-1768)
1 x Clutch Hub Holding Tool (35-5021)
 
I think you're going to want (need) some full size washers under those acorn nuts. Don't know where you were looking for cylinder head torquing info but here's a chart. Only the 8 big acorn nuts get a higher torque value, the rest of the smaller ones are less. That little one you broke is the least. I think you were lucky it broke instead of stripping the threads .....

CylinderHeadTorque.jpg


The shop manual value for the 8 large acorn nuts is a rather low 25 or 26 ft/lbs. Most of us use about 30.
 
Wondering if anybody can weigh in on this, finding an abundance of XT500 drum front wheels on ebay and wanted to do a swap.

The bearing on the XT500 is 15x42x13.

The bearing on the XS650 is 17x47x14

If I'm understanding this correctly, I should be able to purchase the an aftermarket 17x42x13 bearing (17 to accommodate the XS650 axle, 42x13 to fit the XT500 wheel) and it would be a quick swap with the addition of a few spacers and a brake stay right?

Wanted to be certain that it's actually that simple.

DISCLAIMER: As always because it seems inevitable, please don't clog up my thread with questions about why you would switch to a drum. In return I promise not to come into your thread with questions about why you don't try a drum brake instead, because you wouldn't want to read that either.

Thanks
 
Well yes, it could be that simple but I don't think there is a 17 x 42 bearing.
 

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