First XS650 Build, What to Look For

Seems I spoke too soon. They are available but rather an oddball size. That means they're expensive, lol.
 
You will also need a 17mm bearing /axle spacer made to the PRECISE width of the spacer inside the wheel now. Perhaps custom axle spacers if the wheel hub is a different overall width than an XS650 hub. Which will also lead to some sort of speedo drive adapter to keep the drive from spinning if it no longer catches on the fork leg. Watch the length of the tangs inside the hub I have seen different lengths of tangs on various yammie wheels.

There I didn't say you shouldn't switch to a drum!
 
I think the speedo drive is built into the brake hub on an XT wheel, so that shouldn't be a problem. A different cable will be needed. Yes, that spacer between the bearings will be a problem. Another wheel choice, one that uses a 17mm axle, might be the easiest solution.
 
All good points. The amount of work that would be needed seems like it could get expensive. More expensive perhaps, than ponying up for the XS1 drum.
 
SlowMaintenance said:
- - - As always because it seems inevitable, please don't clog up my thread with questions about why you would switch to a drum. In return I promise not to come into your thread with questions about why you don't try a drum brake instead, because you wouldn't want to read that either.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi Slowmaintenance,
as I'm a sidecar man I hesitate to call a fellow XS650 owner a pervert but if you really must swap out your front hydraulics for a front drum why not get a drum that works well enough that you can dare to ride your XS650 at highway speeds?
I don't see you paying more than your bike is worth for an aftermarket racebike item from Grimeca but a two-sided 2LS front drum from a first-year Suzuki GT750 should drop in without too much fuss.
I can just see that elderly Japanese designer hunched over his drafting table and muttering " I'll show those arrogant young fellows that a bike will stop good without no steenkin' hydraulics!"
 
Hahah, point well taken. I will look into that GT750 hub, been looking through thread after thread for the best starting point and there are just so many options. I've not yet looked into that one so it's back to muttering at my drafting table lol.
 
One more question for you guys. That bolt I snapped off in the case...the one right above the cam chain tensioner, it doesn't thread out through the cam chain tensioner area. It's sealed off at the bottom. I can't fit a drill bit in there without some sort of very long extension that nor me or my local shop is aware of.

Does anyone have any suggestions for getting it out? If not, I have to redo the sealer on both the rocker head AND the cylinder base gasket. I really don't want to disassemble the whole top end again over this one bolt. There must be some way.
 
Hey, Nick. Coupla things I would try, but makes use of a lathe.

Broke-11-HeadBolt.jpg


1- Trim 0.010"-0.020" from the backside of the broken bolt's head. Then, apply a tiny dollip of Loctite red to the break, fit it down the hole, rotate it so that it aligns with the break, weigh it down and let it cure. After cure, try to back it out.

2- Failing that, pull engine. Make a drillguide that fits into the hole. Drill & extract the stud.

3- Without a lathe, disassemble engine.

Good way to market lathes, huh?
 
Haha it is indeed. No lathe here unfortunately, but what about a chisel or light tapping on a flathead screwdriver to create a cut and then just twisting it out? Worth buying a smaller chisel to try this?

Also, can a replacement bolt for this hole be purchased locally, or is this a unique bolt. I've now cracked it in half, so I can't exactly take it to the hardware store to compare lol.
 
SlowMaintenance said:
- - - Does anyone have any suggestions for getting it out? If not, I have to redo the sealer on both the rocker head AND the cylinder base gasket. I really don't want to disassemble the whole top end again over this one bolt. There must be some way.
Click to expand...

Hi Nick,
Mr. Bodger sez button up the engine busted bolt and all, and run it.
If it don't leak oil you are golden.
If it does, you ain't and it's teardown time again.
 
Wish I could lol, but unfortunately the snapped portion is the whole threaded portion. Only thing I could potentially do is find some sort of plug for the hole, but nothing else can be screwed into that section :(
 
It's just a standard M6 bolt, an M6 x 35 according to the parts diagram (bolt #9) .....

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Y...CYLINDER XS650D - E - E006501- - F/parts.html

I suppose how easy it will be to extract will depend on whether the threaded part bottomed in the blind hole which caused it to break, or if the head bottomed on the top cover. If the threaded portion bottomed in the hole, it's going to be pretty tight in there. But, the small chisel idea couldn't hurt. Maybe you'll get lucky.
 
Ok I found an extension that works. But my drill isn't charged. I'll play the waiting game until that's ready.

To confirm, you drill a smaller pilot hole with a regular clockwise drill bit first, then go at it with the extractor counterclockwise right? Man I'm bad at this lol. But that's what I found online. If this works I'll post pics of the setup I'm using so you guys can replicate should a need ever arise.

Or you could pay extra close attention to the torque spec like I didn't, and avoid this altogether lol.
 
That's it basically. After you insert the extractor in the hole you drilled, give it a couple gentle taps with a hammer so it seats in and "bites" into the broken screw. Then, just screw it out. It has a reverse "swirl" on it and that makes it screw itself into the broken bolt as you turn it out. Or that's the theory at least.
 
Start with a left hand drill bit. That thing IS an SOB to get at. the bolt is seldom tight, it should WANT to come out. Good luck. That bolt snugs a long thing section of head gasket, it will leak without it!
 
No luck with the bolt extractor set. I decided I'd remove the heads instead and just take it out from the bottom. Realized after getting the cam out that this solution was actually just wasted time, as you can't remove that head with that bolt still in place. Ugh.

I'm stuck guys. Shop doesn't have an answer, I've tried all my answers...quitting for today. Going to take a ride on my road star and clear my head. Hopefully more ideas tomorrow.

Thank you again for your suggestions and advice though, this is a good reminder to double check all torque settings. I won't make this mistake twice.
 

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