First XS650 Build, What to Look For

[SlowMaintenance]

Maybe I'm missing something? Doesn't that bolt hold the two cylinder sections together? I could take the whole cylinder section off, but that wouldn't make the problem any easier to rectify.

Those two cylinder sections are stuck together because that bolt is stuck between the two of them. Or are you saying to take the whole cylinder section off and then rotate them until I "spin off" the top cylinder section?

 

[fredintoon]

Hi Nick,
Drill the head completely off the bolt then you can lift the top piece up off the stub that's left sticking up.

 

[gggGary]

As always on two pieces that are bolted together only the bottom half is threaded. The top half IE the cylinder head is not threaded and will just lift off the cylinder. The bolt will stay behind in the cylinder and probably unthread by hand or a pair of pliers.

Um April fools was a month ago?

a shot of the head with no thread.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Hmm, must just be this sealant doing it's job then. I cannot for the life of me get these things apart.

 

[gggGary]

Did you remove the two bolts from under the spark plugs?

 

[SlowMaintenance]

I did yes, and still no luck getting these halves apart. I'll keep working on it.

 

[5twins]

I told you that you had more sealer on that head gasket than you needed, lol.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

You weren't kidding. Two days later and I STILL can't get this damn thing apart. Anybody got any ideas?

I've tried a heat gun, pb blaster, rubber mallet, tapping with a hammer upward with a piece of PVC plastic pressed against the side. Nothing can get this thing to budge. At least I know it wouldn't have leaked lol.

I'm assuming is particularly difficult to remove because of that broken screw though. And also those locating dowels. Just don't know what else to try. Once this is buttoned up I'll reinstall the pistons into the cylinders horizontally. If anybody has that video or thread I couldn't track it down this morning and I'm dreading redoing that process.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Also noteworthy, I got the 27mm socket from mikes which states that it fits all clutch hub nuts on 70-84. However, my clutch hub nut seems to be bigger. What gives?

 

[gggGary]

When the wall starts getting all dented up where you've been beating your head on it try bringing in a fresh set of eyes? It sure seems like there is something more than gasket cement holding the halves together.

5t has reported a few 28mm clutch hub nuts.

 

[5twins]

I found some 29's too.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Here are 3 shots of the unit. I really think I've got all the screws out, am I missing something?

 

[fredintoon]

Dammit Nick, pull the cloth away and gimmie a side view.
Is the head still stuck to the barrels or what?

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Lol sorry, but yes that head is stuck to the barrels.

 

[theDQG]

You able to get any separation at all?

If you can get a crack or sliver of daylight, you could work in a plastic or wooden wedge?

 

[5twins]

Time to get the hardwood blocks and BFH's out, lol. I would hit here and here. Under the exhaust ports on the front, intake ports on the rear. That will give you 4 points to beat against. Don't pound against the fins, they can bend and/or break.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi Nick,
right then, first be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN SURE that every last fastener has been removed.
Then check again.
Now make cardboard templates of plates that are tailored to fit in between the cooling fins snuggled up to the main casting as close as they'll go and stuck out far enough to get 8mm-ish fasteners into.
Make them in pairs to fit one in the head and one in the barrels, one set each side.
Make real ones from 7ga sheet steel.
Make tie-plates that hold the head pair and the barrel pair together in complete rings.
(Little stubs of 1" x 1/8" flat bar and M6 or 1/4" UNC nuts & bolts will do)
Tap M8 (or whatever, 5/16"UNF?) in two places through both the plates in the head to give a jacking force at each corner.
Thread in four M8 (or 5/16"UNF) Allen bolts that bear down on the barrel's plates.
Screw in each fastener mebbe a 1/2 turn each in rotation.
That should shift it.
Good luck.
Hey, if it works you can add the head extractor to the "borrow-a-tool" list.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

How about something a little less complicated.

A piece of 1/2" x 3/8" aluminum bar will slide deeply into the head, kinda angled between cooling fins. It only needs to be 5" long. But, it emerges precisely over a headbolt, and locks perfectly into a horizontal position. A longer 8mm headbolt there, maybe 70-75mm long.

Edit: According to Nick, "You can use two of the four small bolts for the top of the head cover. They fit the threads on that cylinder and are long enough to work as a leverage point."

Thread the bolt in, insert the bar, back out the bolt against the bar.
Just enuff to apply pressure at first. Then do your wooden mallet thing.

More pressure is up to you...

 

[gggGary]

How about something a little less complicated.

A piece of 1/2" x 3/8" aluminum bar will slide deeply into the head, kinda angled between cooling fins. It only needs to be 5" long. But, it emerges precisely over a headbolt, and locks perfectly into a horizontal position. A longer 8mm headbolt there, maybe 70-75mm long.

Thread the bolt in, insert the bar, back out the bolt against the bar.
Just enuff to apply pressure at first. Then do your wooden mallet thing.

More pressure is up to you...

Good One 2M!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Thanx, gggGary.
That's one of my spare XS1B heads. So, not sure if those dimensions will work for later heads.
I'll leave it to you guys to fine tune that...