Frozen 17mm Rotor Nut removal

[JayR]

Hi fellas - the nut holding my rotor on will not budge. To be clear, I’m just trying to get the 17mm nut off so that I can use my MikesXS rotor puller.

It has a lock washer under it (OEM?). I tried an impact hammer. And a short breaker bar. 5th gear and I am depressing the rear brake pedal for leverage.

Im afraid I may be effen something up with all the torque I’m applying. Is this nut reversethread?

Any advice is welcome. Thanks! Jay

 

[Signal]

I have had good success using a rattle gun.

 

[Jim]

5th gear and I am depressing the rear brake pedal for leverage.

Here's a better way to hold the rotor.... oil filter wrench.

 

[JayR]

Thanks Jim and Signal. 2 great options. I’ll try the oil filter wrench and that doesn’t work see what HD has in the way of pneumatic rentals. I have a small 100psi compressor.

Jim - that’s a crispy clean engine!

 

[Jim]

You can also put a cheater bar on the filter wrench for more leverage... as long as it ain't a Chinese crap one...

 

[gggGary]

Don't really need to block anything, get a 6 point socket or box wrench on the nut smack end of tool with a large hammer. The mass of the crank is enough to allow the nut to turn. Never had one win. It is standard thread, hammer down at front of motor. Watch clearance 'tween nut and the brush guard.

 

[MaxPete]

Hmmmm...we seem to have two threads on the same topic going here.

Anyhow - I just posted this note in the other thread on stuck alternator rotor nuts.
_________________________________________________________________
Yup, I'd try a hot air gun on the nut and the end of the crankshaft itself (NOT a torch - that is too hot and may ruin the rotor windings) just in case somebody put threadlocker compound on the nut - which sounds likely to me from your description of the struggles you are experiencing.

Then, once you have the nut off, put on the correct rotor removal tool, tighten it down and give the centre screw a good cuff with a hammer.

Pete

 

[JayR]

Hmmmm...we seem to have two threads on the same topic going here.

Anyhow - I just posted this note in the other thread on stuck alternator rotor nuts.
_________________________________________________________________
Yup, I'd try a hot air gun on the rotor itself (NOT a torch - that is too hot and may ruin the rotor windings) just in case somebody put threadlocker compound on the nut - which sounds likely to me from your description of the struggles you are experiencing.

Then, once you have the nut off, put on the correct rotor removal tool, tighten it down and give the centre screw a good cuff with a hammer.

Pete

Thanks Pete my bad I had lost my connection when posting my first question and I thought that didn’t go through. Apologies for the mix up. But thanks for the advice. Maybe thread lock - I have the break on and when trying to loosen the nut the crank is turning - but not the nut. That’s probably REALLY bad.

 

[MaxPete]

Thanks Pete my bad I had lost my connection when posting my first question and I thought that didn’t go through. Apologies for the mix up. But thanks for the advice. Maybe thread lock - I have the break on and when trying to loosen the nut the crank is turning - but not the nut. That’s probably REALLY bad.

I suspect that an air impact gun or even an electric "rattle" gun would loosen that right off. I bought the MikesXS clutch holding tool to remove the clutch nut on my Cafe donor bike (to allow access to the starter hairpin spring) - total fail. The clutch holder folded up instantly when I got on the nut with my breaker bar.

I bought an inexpensive rechargable rattle gun (less than $100 CDN or around $13.57 USD) and held the rear brake on with my hand - and that little gun spun that puppy off faster than a bride's nighty.

 

[JayR]

Hmmmm...we seem to have two threads on the same topic going here.

Anyhow - I just posted this note in the other thread on stuck alternator rotor nuts.
_________________________________________________________________
Yup, I'd try a hot air gun on the rotor itself (NOT a torch - that is too hot and may ruin the rotor windings) just in case somebody put threadlocker compound on the nut - which sounds likely to me from your description of the struggles you are experiencing.

Then, once you have the nut off, put on the correct rotor removal tool, tighten it down and give the centre screw a good cuff with a hammer.

Pete

A little heat on the nut and whacking the box end wrench did the trick! I didn’t even have to apply the rear brake. Hope I didn’t mess up the crank with my earlier attempts.

My rotor is reading OL so not sure what is happening there. May be shot. Once I pull it is there a way to at least get an ohm reading? Even if it’s 1.0 it’d be good to know how bad it is vs just not measurable you know?

 

[gggGary]

Not rare for a rotor to go open circuit. Broken wire or solder joint on rear of slip ring phenolic plate.
Gotta kind of push jab your probes into the slip rings to make good contact.

 

[Jim]

Not rare for a rotor to go open circuit. Broken wire or solder joint on rear of slip ring phenolic plate.

Yeah... you might get lucky and be able to solder it back on.

 

[JayR]

Now that the rotor is off it definitely looks like a problem. As background it was reading 5.1 ohms the last time I tested it 3 years ago (time flys).

Now it’s an open circuit - OL reading. The pictures show a somewhat exposed copper wire at the solder joint although it does seem to be covered with that protective coating.

The second picture shows a loose flap of fabric that has clearly delaminated from the rotor. And this is the “spoke” directly next to the suspect solder joint.

The last picture shows an alpha neumeric etching on the face of the back of the rotor. My guess is that this is a remanufactured rotor.

Bottom line - I’ll be buying a new rotor. I’ve seen several options on this forum; rewinding, new from MikesXS, new from Ricks Rotors, or take a chance on used from eBay.

I’m apt to buy new - what do you guys think?

 

[Jim]

If it were me, I think I'd try and resolder anyway in case ya got a cold solder joint. Wadda' ya got to lose?

 

[JayR]

so I just resoldered the suspect joint (outer ring terminal). I then touched one probe to the joint, and the other to the inner ring. The circuit closed (no more OL) but the reading was 0.3 ohms. The resistance on my multi meter is 0.3 ohms. So a net 0.0 (but not OL). Is a 0.0 ohm reading common when rotors fail? Is it an indication of the degree of rotor failure, or perhaps other system issues down the road?

I then placed the probe that was on the terminal onto the actual outer ring. My reading here is still OL. A bit of a riddle - but in any event it seems the rotor is shot.

Here is another picture of rotor (maybe I should scrape the carbon off!).

 

[gggGary]

Fer sure it don' look like stock windings, varnish.

 

[gggGary]

View attachment 131774
Here is another picture of rotor (maybe I should scrape the carbon off!).

Just spread some peanut butter on it. It'll be fine.

 

[JayR]

Lol!

 

[Jim]

What do you get when you measure inner ring to outer ring?

 

[JayR]

What do you get when you measure inner ring to outer ring?

I get the “OL” reading - open circuit.

When I go outer ring terminal, to inner ring surface I get 0.3 (net 0.0). NOT OL. Odd.