Hydraulic Clutch Conversion - Any Interest?

I snagged a complete Magura set-up from eBay for $75, took about 30 minutes to machine the sidecover and have it working. Smoooooooooth.

What is the size of the master and slave with that kit? Do you know many mm of "push" you get on the pushrod with it?
 
If it would make the clutch easier to pull for my wife i'd be up for buying one as long as the install didn't involve too much machining myself.
 
My main concern, though I'm sure others have sorted it and might share knowledge, would be making sure to find the functional center of the cover opening, and how to determine the proper rod length without a lot of trial and error.

Also, I'm curious as to what components Hugh will be offering in the kit, if he is prepared or willing to offer a little narrative preview (I know he's moving, and busy).

TC
 
Hopefully we can find some tiny Master cylinders for the left side like the one's mikexs sells for the right. Or would you use a rear master cylinder mounted off the bars? Would there be any needed mounts or adjustments to the frame? If so I'll wait to paint ours.
 
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I have two bikes I'll be startin a build on in a while I would love to have one of these to put on them. R ya about ready to start salein or r you already salein?
 
At americanclassix.com they have a slave cylinder that fits inside a KZ 650 chain cover. I wonder if it would fit inside our chain cover.
 
Sorry, I don't get it. Is the stock clutch lever xscessively (sorry couldn't resist) hard to pull? The only advantage I can see to the hydraulic setup is that you don't have the friction caused by the cable moving through it's housing. The motion ratio still needs to be the same whether it's mechanical or hydraulic. You pull the hand lever X degrees and at the oposite end the clutch disengages. Did Yamaha get the ratio wrong?
 
Sorry, I don't get it. Is the stock clutch lever xscessively (sorry couldn't resist) hard to pull? The only advantage I can see to the hydraulic setup is that you don't have the friction caused by the cable moving through it's housing. The motion ratio still needs to be the same whether it's mechanical or hydraulic. You pull the hand lever X degrees and at the oposite end the clutch disengages. Did Yamaha get the ratio wrong?

The stock levers on many Japanese bikes including the XS are excessively hard to pull and to hold for long periods of time like those never changing traffic lights that only go green for a few seconds.

And then there's those of us with Auther Itus and old hands...
 
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